What hose where - L28

[neRok]

hi, just got myself a 260z and its been fitted with a L28, im guessing its from an MQ coz its got the single 2 barrel carb on it. anyway, the bloke i purchased it off had ripped everything off that side of the block to put extractors and tripple carbs on, but he didnt finish. so im putting it back together so i can just putt around in it for a while. im usually pretty clued up, but im stumped what to do with all these bits and pieces.

 

#1, a vent type thing, sometimes go to charcoal box or to carby. have neither in/on the car, does it maybe go to #4 or #9?

#2 and #3, dont know why i would need so many manifold ports, maybe for when they have 2 or more carbs?

#4, looks like some sort of pcv style valve, which is why i thought it might connect to #1.

#5 im guessing its for the brake booster, it fitted fine. BUT (read #6)...

#6 is the auto trans vacuum, presume for kick down, #5 has a small (smaller than this tube) fitting off it that i think the trans used to be connected to. should i connect here or somewhere else?

#7 i have no idea what this is. there is a tube sticking out the front and it has a wire with bullet on the end (might not be original fitting).

#8 im guessing electric choke, and it has a spade.

#9 some crank case vent, where does it go?

#10 i thought would be a heater line, but the heater lines are coming from the back drivers side of the block and to the lower motor to rad point on that side of the block also

#11 these must have a fan shroud i must be missing. do these cars go okay with thermos, i have some spare el or au falcon twins lying around. will have to research this.

#12 i have no idea why there is a fitting out the bottom of the radiator.

 

im actually right into MQ patrols, ive got the workshop manuals for them, will look them up tomorrow and see what i can suss out myself. just thought i would ask first

 

and whilst ive got a thread, what are these carbs he gave me? any good, and whats a manifold cost?

[d3c0y]

Well for a start your triple carbs look like MGB SU's or something similar. Z's came out from the factory with twin SU copies made by Hitachi.

Also what you have got there isn't really what people commonly refer to as "triple carbs". Generally speaking when some one says triples they me Weber DCOEs, Mikuni PHH or Delortos which are all twin throat side draft carbs.

 

Triple SU manifold is going to be tricky to get and to be honest at the end of the day probably not worth all the messing around when there are better options. 

 

Those SUs you have there will not bolt up to a standard Z SU manifold.

You could probably bolt an DVG Weber to that down draft manifold or if you dont want to go to the expense of the triple setups i listed about just go back to 240Z Hitachi SUs.

 

1) Is supposed to go to the stock air box, you can just run a small cheap filter like this if you are worried about the EPA

2 & 3) This is where the coolant used to be routed (from the T-Piece on the other side going to the heater core) for emissions purposes to warm the intake manifolds to reduce emissions - Leave this disconnected, just bs pollution setup.

4) If you mean the shaft coming from the firewall, that is the old throttle linkage for the SU set up.

5) Looks like the PCV which #9 connects to (if it's got a spring loaded ball bearing in the end of it). If it's just open it's probably brake master cylinder vacuum which the hose for that is above it.

6) Earth straps

7) Don't really know, I think it's an EGR solenoid or some other bs which you wouldnt want to hook up 

Don't really know, auto choke or something?

9) Crank case vent, originally went back into the inlet manifold balance tube, might go to #5 if its got a valve in it, if not it needs a filter like i suggested in #1 or the bung in second inlet runner taking out and a pcv screwing in there.

10) Used to run to #2, you can take all that hose and crap out and just block it off at the thermostat housing.

11) Definitely the fan or radiator  I measured up EF fans, having an EF myself and they dont really fit. I just bought two 12" thermos off ebay. For the record, my 240Z with stock fan, no shroud, and an average fan clutch has no overheating problems at all. So unless you have aircon or your cooling system is crap it should be fine.

12) Radiator is out of an automatic car, that's the oil line for the auto transmission cooler.

 

So how did i do? its 1:30am and i couldnt find any diagrams or pictures of patrol engine bays so it's as good as it's going to get from me.

 

All in all ditch all that crap for a stock 240Z setup and save yourself a whole lot of headaches.

[neRok]

thanks, very helpful!

 

i wasnt too keen on those 3 carbs anyway, efi is my goal with this engine because im not to keen with carbs at

 

all. ive already got a v6 commo ready to give up it bits, and ive got a tunable computer in my v8 commodore so it

 

should be easy and effective.

 

2, 3 and 10, the inlet heating makes sense. ill pretty it up a bit more.

 

you got a bit mixxed up with 4, 5 and 6. your 5 (PCV) is my 4. my 5 is the brake vacuum, its already on its

 

fitting. that fitting has a mini tube comming off the side, im guessing its for the auto which is my 6 (there is

 

a steel line there). i was wondering if thats a good spot for the auto vacuum. im guessing that spot must get

 

good vacuum, else the brakes would be rubbish.

 

1, 9 and 4, which are the vents, ill just do some mini filter system like you mention.

 

7, ill research this one, but yer your probably right.

8, choke was my thought.

 

11, ahh, didnt know that was a radiator i just remembered that the car doesnt have an overflow bottle, where

 

do these usually go?

12, im pretty sure all the auto lines are already hooked up and this hose is still left over. theres no water

 

coming out of it, ill have to inspect further.

[neRok]

if its of any use to anyone, i have a wiki on MQ patrols and have for download all the nissan factory service manuals. chapter 2 (EM) covers the L28. im just reading it now, because i have (well had, v8 soon) diesel so never read that part.

http://nerok.info/general/service_manuals

[neRok]

reading my MQ manual, 7 is a BCDD valve/unit (Boost Controlled Deceleration Device) which from the description sounds like it richens up the mixture when coasting, because the carby on its own is a bit lean and doesnt get a good burn which produces extra pollution. the solenoid/wire is a cut off for when idling/parked. so i will hook this up to the park/neutral i guess, i dont see any benefit to giving it constant 12volt so its always disables (except maybe save some fuel).

 

with the crank case vent system, 1 goes to air filter housing, and 9 goes to PCV valve, however this is usually located on the manifold just under the carby, you can see a bolt in its position (to the left), not where 4 is now. i think i might just hook 1 and 9 to a t-piece and then stick 1 mini filter on there, or if im real game hook up a catch can.

[d3c0y]

Why screw around with dunnydore injection when you can just bolt on a 280ZX set up?

[neRok]

its (more than likely) far superior. there are many more driveability features packed into the delco computer than any aftermarket computer. and 280zx is pretty old gear, vn+ commodore efi is mostly all the same (with some tweaks along the way). parts are cheap and plentiful, you can get a tuneable computer for less than $300 and then do your own tuning with a laptop. and theyve now made ways to run 4 seperate tunes that you can switch on the fly.

[luvemfast]

Hmmm, sounds interesting.

Tell us more.

How is this better than megasquirt or aftermarket ECU's?

[neRok]

i dont really know why/if its better, you could try searching the delco forums, im sure its been discussed.

there is a little writeup i found on this forum: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php?topic=6603.0

delcohacking.net is the australian site making all the good stuff.

there is a similar system in the us at moates.net, but the aussie system is newer and seems better/easier.

 

here is a brief rundown of the delco system: http://www.delcohacking.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=655

they created their own special 'base' tune with some special features in it: http://www.delcohacking.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=356

 

to make a live-tunable delco ecu, if you get whats known as an 808 ecm from vn era, you need to add the realtime memcal and upgrade its comm (ALDL) port to either serial or usb output, that costs less than $300. if you get a VR era ecu, you only need the realitime memcal which is like $170. once you have one realtime ecm, you can tune a car with it, then buy a cheap eprom burner, then you can burn chips that can then be stuck into regular (un-modded) ecms. example, i get myself 1 realtime ecu, i tune the efi v8 in my 4wd with it, burn a chip and stick it in normal ecm. then put the live ecm in my commodore, tune etc. save big $ then, and you could even tune mates cars etc (if they delco converted, or even had commodores).