What do you guys think, new 2+2 shell, need some advice from seasoned users

[WogsRus]

Ok so i have posted most pics here

 

http://wogsrus.gallery.netspace.net.au/album01

 

and a post about soem rear end here

 

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,6227.0.html

 

Esentially the car is a 75 2+2 mostly complete.

 

The rust in some areas is a bit of a pain in the ass.

 

Comes complete with interior, and so froth, wheels, but no engine or gearbox.

 

Bonnet is shagged, front panels are crappy but i have  good set from the donor car.

 

Overall it looks fkucking fantastic when you see what i am working with.

 

The owner is asking $1500 as is, which i think is a fair price, he is looking at an alternative which has been in a garage under cover for 15 years but still registered, tired motor but otherwise should be in great nick for $3000.

 

Can you guys have a look over the photos and tell me what you think?

 

Any advice, in particulary the battery tray area, would be great.

 

Thanks

[Mr Camouflage]

I bought a whole 260Z 2+2 with engine and gearbox for $500 once.  Looked about the same as that one. (floors were alot rustier though).

 

Pass on the rusty one and go find the $3000 one and buy it before he does 

 

Got a link to pics of the one you are working on?

[WogsRus]

Nope, well i have original pics just do a search for my nick, but under the body there is sooo much rust and bog it's not funny.

 

Yeah well i am having extream dificulty finding a good shell at the moment.

 

The $3000 is/might be an option, the person selling it has a 260z and a 260z 2+2 they need to get rid of as two cars. So the person who i am getting this car ($1500 shell) from is looking at purchasing the set to sell the 260z off to another person and a 2+2 to me, but i have no idea just how good/bad the otehr car is as yet.

 

Admitadly if the $3000 is rust free and in good condition, with less rust then the above shell, i will go for that one, but at the moment this is what i have to work with.

 

 

 

[Lynton]

One of the difficult areas of rust is the hinge area into the roof for the tailgate

and under the fuel filler, usually bogged and getting the line crease perfect on repair on the face of the rear panel. Rust in top of the mudguards the usual in the doglegs of the guards and the flat area metal of wwherethe hatch closes down.

Floors usually because the heater has let go and nobody has ever dried it out.

Rust developes in the rear quarter panel at join to the rood and above the roof silver strip on the edge of the roof.

take a magnet, Lynton

[Glen]

If this was me, i wouldnt buy the $1500 one. Wait around something better will pop up. Only problem is it could take 6 to 12 months.

 

 

[WogsRus]

yeah i know but the problem is not many pop up in tassie so waiting takes years.

 

I really hope the one for 3K is much better and go from there