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Posted

Hey guys,

 

wondering if anyone does a fully adjustable bolt-in suspension upgrade for a zed. Wanted something that is completely bolt-in, ie no redrilling of strut towers, sectioning of struts etc. Does such a creature exist? Preferably in Tokico too.

 

Cheers

Posted

How much adjustability do you need?

How often will you want to change settings?

 

Simple eccentric hard rear bushes for rear toe/camber,

Front LCA's lengthened by xx mm, or crossmember hole relocated by xx mm

Longer compression arms, with thread, and washers, for front caster camber.

 

Resetting front and rear spring perches, by cutting off and rewelding back on, for height.or welding on ext threaded tube over strut, use two jam nuts and loose spring perch.

Pretty affordable, and there are a few shops in Sydney can do it for you.

Posted

Thanks guys, Roberto do you have a part number?

 

Jason, basically I was wondering if it would be possible to vary the height and stiffness of both the front and rear suspension, with the ability to put the car back to factory spec if I wanted. At the moment my mate wants to lower his zed, and we were wondering if it can be done with no extra holes or sectioning struts, however we would put the original shocks aside and go to a new shock assembly, coilovers perhaps?

 

Will look at the TTT ones, however was wondering if you can simply swap the shock assembly over to a coilover setup? Would be useful for a road reg car that sees occasional track use.

 

Cheers

Posted

To vary the poundage rate on any spring requires changing the spring.it is usually an increase in the diam of the wire, but also changing the number of effective coils.

The top 1.25 and bottom 1.25 of coils are pretty much hard stacked, it is the rest of them that count.

Also another variance can be the overall diameter of the coil.

Steel has a K value, a big fancy number, you enter the rest of the measurements, and the result is the Lbs per inch rating.

 

To alter heights by way of adjustable platforms will not alter poundage rates.

The Lo-Cost method , as above, can be achieved using builders Acro prop threaded section! Or threaded tube that plumbers in industrial situations might use.

 

Fitting new inserts in place of stock "wet legs" is a good idea, something like a Koni Red, adjustable on rebound only, or Yellow, adjustable bump and rebound, and you can start to fine tune front to rear weight transfer rates.

 

The aftermarket coilover suppliers do the same stuff, but make it look pretty.

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