jalexquijano

Like this? I installed the longer needle and seat that goes on the 3 screws front carb float bowl and set the idle mixture screw to 2.5 turns clockwise. What next? Do i measure the fuel height with the pair of clear tubes connected to the drain plugs?

so it doesnt matter if the valve needle stem or pin is pushed by the weight of the float when measuring the 0.55 inch 9/16 gap?

Do you have any video where this float level adjustment is explained?

Im posting some pictures to obtain your clarification if the 0.55 inch gap is taken from the bottom of the lid to the pin of the neddle valve not pressed by the weight of the float.

Im posting some pictures to obtain your clarification if the 0.55 inch gap is taken from the bottom of the lid to the pin of the neddle valve not pressed by the weight of the float.

I though the measurement of 9/16 was taken with the float bottom just barely touching the valve stem and not pushing it down with its own weight.

Spec sheet is wrong. WHen i bought this pump new it measured 4.2 psi right before the carbs. I want to know if its possible that the pump lost pressure due to leaving the car in the on position and not starting it right away.

I would like to know if the .55 inch gap must be measured between the float valve lid bottom to the float valve as shown without depressing the pin on the needle valve. The video you uploaded deals with grose jets not neddle valves. Its really difficult to set the floats level this way.

I bought the following electric pump for my 240z with 3 screws SU CARBS: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000DT7Y7A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1# Initially the pump measured 4.2 psi which was a good pressure for both carbs. Mechanic left the car in on position without starting the engine and now the pump is just measuring 3.2 psi and causing backfire from the intake. What could be the cause of this sudden loss of pressure?? the pump is still working but at 3.2 psi.

I watched the Ztherapy Just SU DVD and its not clear. I also reviewed the Haynes Manual and its not even explained precisely.

How do you set the .55 inches 9/16 measurement on the front and rear 3 screws su carb floats? Do you use a set of calipers? I need to know if the measurement is taken from the rim of the lid to the base of the float depressed or unpressed?

Need to solve my problem at idle during long traffic times where my car tends to stall.

Gasoline in Panama has no Ethanol. I use 95 octanes.

In conclusión it is irrelevant if i use any Brand of ATF?

i have richened both 3 Screws SU Carbs mixture to 2.70 turns clockwise and since my camshaft is not stock but a Schneider 274F cam, i have set the rpm to 1,100. http://schneidercams.com/274FL6.aspx

Thanks i ll follow your advice.

This is not crap. This needs to be addressed logically.

Okay. If most of the braking is done upfront and there is no noticeable difference, then what should i upgrade to get a better stop besides the stainless braided hoses. Should i only purchase this kit to install on the front brakes? http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic21k

no i have not. surely it will go away.

Which damper oil is recommended for hot tropical weather then? my problem is at idle not during cruising at the highways.

I live in Panama where temperature rises to 33 degrees Celsius. Both of my 3 screws roundtop SU carbs were fully rebuilt by Ztherapy who recommended to use ATF as damper oil. However, after 3 years i am still struggling with the car during slow traffic situations. Should i consider changing to better Brand of ATF or just settle with 3 in one motor oil SAE 20?

i was recommended 12 btdc

everything was checked, i guess its the new system which is less restrictive and its of a different material than stock. Its weird as when i recently purchased the car, it carried a twice pipe system and it did not backfired when releasing the gas pedal at any gear: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic19i/15-6031 the one i installed is made from aluminum and has no reduction or glasspacks: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic19j/15-6304

Yesterday i cranked my 240z and drove with the choke pulled for 5 minutes until i reached to normal temperature as otherwise the car misfires and stumbles. Once on the speedway i pushed the choke lever off and when accelerating the car started to pop or backfire at the intake. In order to avoid this i had to add some choke so i could reach back home. Is this a symptom proving that the Airtex 8012s electric fuel pump is failing? I had this problem 2 years ago, replaced the pump and never had this again. What is the mínimum PSI that i need in order to avoid this problem? Both of my carbs are set to 2.65 turns clockwise and have been balanced. https://www.amazon.com/Airtex-E8012S-Universal-Electric-Fuel/dp/B000DT7Y7A

Yes. Just advise which way to go.