spiderken17

Extras: There are a few extras that i have bought for the car over the years. I have a brand new fibreglass front spoiler that costs about $250. i have a pair of crystal headlights that are brand new. A brand new rubber tailgate seal and a brand new fuel pump still in the box. I also had the passenger side footrest bar rechromed. There is also a fibreglass front bar that has the mounting brackets brocken off the inside of it. The car has alot of extras on it that make it well worth the asking price (dash, centre console, wheels, front spoiler, engine/gearbox plus more). Money could be recouperated by any buyer by selling off unwanted parts. I would prefer to sell the lot as a whole but if there is not enough interest i will consider parting it out. I also have access to a car trailer and can possibly deliver to the buyer depending on location and timing. If anyone has any questions or would like more photos feel free to contact me. Cheers, Ken

The wheels i bought a few years ago and are in good condition with little to no scratches or marks. 2 have had the inserts painted and all have Nankang tyres on them with plenty of tread. 195's on the front and 205's on the rear. The engine is a Rover 3.5 litre all alloy V8 (very light) with a single Holley Carb on an aftermarket manifold. It already has engine mounts to fit in the Datsun engine bay. The gearbox is a supra 5 speed with a Dellow bellhousing mating it to the engine (costs over $500 on its own). The whole drivetrain came out of another forum members engineered 240Z a couple of years ago so i have a tailshaft to suit a 2 seater as well as an exhaust systen to suit. I also have a spare diff. I drove the car before the engine was removed and it was quite quick (nothing crazy) with an excellent exhaust note. The previous owner of the engine also showed me a mid 15 second time slip from the drags at WSID on his one and only run. The brakes are all present but the master cylinder is shot. Because the Rover V8 is so light, no brake upgrade is needed for an engineers certificate (its lighter than the L series) The suspension is all complete but the shocks will likely need replacing.

The panels are in various conditions. The drivers side door is cactus as it has had a bodgey repair done along time ago and will need replacing. The passenger door has been stripped to bare metal and is pretty straight with a few rust holes at the bottom. Both guards and the tailgate are good 2nd hand panels with little to no rust or repairs. The bonnet (unvented) i got from a mates 260Z has a few repairs under the paint from memory (i painted it 10 years ago at TAFE) but is pretty good. The battery cover panels are great, the scuttle panel has a few dents and have all been stripped to metal on the surface. The headlight surrounds and park light surrounds are average and the lower front apron is stuffed. The stainless and chrome parts are in mixed condition. There is no major damage to any components from memory (they are all packed away) The glass is all there and unbroken. The interior is pretty rough. the carpet is stuffed and the seats and some other parts have got a little mouldy in storage. Some of it is usable but some will need replacing/retrimming. The dash is excellent and has no cracks in it. The centre console is also in great condition with no cracks. The ashtray lid of the centre console has also been rechromed.

The car has been owned by me for the last 8 years and before that by a mate of mine for about 4. In that time it has been always been garaged at my house and his. The guy he bought it off owned it for many years and the car was always garaged by him as well. The car is in parts that are kept in a shed and all the nuts/bolts/screws are in bags that are labelled (I'm a little OCD). I also took reference photos of the car as i pulled it apart to keep a record of where things went. The body has some rust bubbles on the lower rear quarter panels and the drivers side sill. I also think there is a bit of rust on one of the rails under the car. There is some old repairs on the rear beaver panel that are not great and the drivers side extension panel in fornt of the radiator support has some old repairs and rust damage which is the worst part of the body. There does not appear to be any rust in the floorpan except for a small amount in the spare wheel well. The rest of the quarter panels, turret, pillars, door and tailgate appetures are pretty good. Overall i would think this body is in above average condition for an unrestored car this age (judging by some other members cars).

I am now wrecking this car as i have had little interest in it as a whole. The best components are for sale on their own thread. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,9223.0.html The engine /gearbox is not for sale. Feel free to ask me any questions for any specific components. The car is complete and has spent most of its life garaged or in boxes. Cheers, Ken Model: 1977 260z 2+2 Location: Lower Blue Mountains, NSW. Item Condition: Good condition for its age (compared to other Datsuns). Body: Some rust and old repairs Mechanical: Rolling Shell and boxes of parts Price and Payment Conditions: $4500 ONO Registration: Unregistered. Engineers Certificate: No. Contact Details: Email or PM Pics: More info and pics to come.

The shed isn't as much about Ford as it is DJR. I support them to the exclusion of all others. If they changed brand i would still go for them. True about the Sierra's in the early 90's. They had the track to themselves in the late 80's though . Someone will always build a better mousetrap though.

I have sprayed a matt or satin finish on numerous cars. The easiest way is to use flattening base mixed in with the colour or clear. If you are planning to do it at home i assume you are doing it on a budget. I would recommend Hi-Chem (Motospray) products as they are easy to use, good quality for the price and readily available. If you are going for satin black, i would paint the car in straight colour (either acrylic or 2 pack) with the flattening base added. I don't believe you will need to clear coat the car. Hi-Chem's flattening base is added straight to the tinter, how flat the finish is depends on how much flattening base you add. I add about 75% for a completely matt finish and 40%-50% for a satin finish but it is best to spray out some test panels first to achive the desired finish. Once it is finished you should not need to buff or polish it as you are not after a gloss finish anyway. That is the great thing about matt/satin finishes, they are done straight off the gun (i hate buffing). The only hint i have for applying the paint is that i apply it quite heavy, being careful to have plenty of overlap on the strokes. If there is not enought overlap then you get dry "lines" along the finish of the car. I highly recommend practicing on some test panels to hone your technique and figure out the paint mixing ratio's. You might have to do it a few times but it will be worth it in the final result. If you are using any other brand of product make sure you read the directions on the tin or data sheet as each brand will have different mixing ratio's. I'm not sure where in Sydney you are but out Penrith way i get my paint from either Auto West or KGP, i'm sure you will be able to find a decent auto paint supplier in the phone book near you.

DJR fan is an understatement. I am a DJR nut! Besides the doors from Steve's car (from the Darwin round 2009) and the wheel (from an AU) i also have all the 1:18 DJR model cars (plus about 50 non DJR cars) and 30 or so signed and framed posters from over the years. As for keeping the shed clean, i have a large garden shed next to the garage where all the parts get kept so the shed does not accumulate rubbish. Being a little OCD helps as well .

Hello everyone, my name is Ken and i am a fellow Z fan. I have been a qualified spraypainter for the last 10 years and have been doing a mechanics apprenticeship for the last year or so. As you can see i have very little interest in cars . I live in the lower Blue Mountains in NSW and am a bit of a joker (life should be fun). I have a 1976 260z 2+2 that i have had for about 7-8 years. I bought it from a mate who had it for 4-5 years. Unfortunately, i have spent alot of time over the last few years working on friends cars and not on my own so i have only pulled it apart in that time, although luckily it has been in a garage the whole time (as well as while my mate owned it and the guy he bought it from). In fact in the last 20 years or so it has only been on the road for a few years in total. I have decided to hook into it this year and get it done. It has some old accident damage which i need to repair as well as replace or refurbish most of the other systems. I have a Land Rover 3.5 V8/Supra 5 speed that i bought off a another forum member a year or so ago which will power it once it is done. I have been browsing the forum for a while and decided to join now so i can draw on the wealth of Z knowledge during my rebuild, and hopefully add some knowledge of my own to the pool. Below is a pic of my car in my back garage.