Bigworm

Leaked oil, really? That was one of the things i liked about the new engine is that it didnt drop any oil (well not for the couple of months i had it anyway) Sorry mate i couldnt have predicted that one!

about 13 people watching it, heres hoping it steps up a bit!!!

The ebay auction is over today and the highest bidder is only at $1000 so heres ur chance to get this car cheap!!!!! http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290521024044&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT

I honestly dont think so, the main issue last time was the battery terminal heating up and i had a (Bloody expensive) mobile auto electrician come out and fix the wiring issues when i couldnt fix it myself, and the other reason i dont think its the same is, it was running so good since that stuff was fixed for like a month, it was a surprise when i got told the problem was electrical again!

Thanks for the heads up pete, but still even if i buy the computer,i might not get a chance to put it in for like a couple of weeks... i kinda need it gone asap so i can just buy a cheap little 4cyl runabout to get to work, but ill just have to see how it goes with ebay as i relisted it with a lower starting price (hopefully i get a few bids this time). cheers guys

Cheers Pete, it's nice to know I'm not the only one who likes the new look!! The car didn't sell on eBay so I'm still chasing offers if anybody is after a bargain! Cmon guys it's a great car at a really good price and If I had the time and money I wouldn't even be selling it Thanks Jesse

Hi again guys If anybody is interested here is a link to the ebay auction. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290519007803&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT Check it out new pics just put on ebay of interior and engine today as well thanks Jesse

hey buddy yeh its a great car when its working drives like a dream but i no longer have the time to fix it, i was hoping to sell it before next week but if ur interested maybe i can wait until u have some cash and we can do a deal. How long were u thinking???

need this car gone asap!!!! give me some offers u never know...... im selling it cheap!

ok these pics were taken today

Hi guys im finally ready to let go of my beloved 280zx, as i now have too many projects and need to get rid of some due to moving where there is no space:( here are the details: Good Points: - 1979 series 1 280zx 2dr hardtop with customised body lines(the plastic/chrome weather stripping and rain channel was removed,and roof was re welded and fiberglassed to give whole car a sleek look same with the side pillars, refer to pics when i get around to putting some up) - body was stripped and all rust cut out, re-plated, fiberglassed and rust-proofed and re-sprayed two tone red and black with a gold stripe (now has a solid black bonnet) - I have just put in a re-cond L28 about a month ago and seemed to run great and have decent power for a standard 6, it has the 3sp auto box attached. - the dash was customised by removing the cracks and then fiberglassing it and painted it black (with red cups inside the guage wells) and custom panels were made to fit a new stereo system deck into original dash. all other interior panels were re-coloured in black and red, and it has tan seats in the front. - it has a great stereo system with a sony X-plode head deck, a set of alpine type S 4" speakers behind front seats run by an epsilon amp and two 10" subs run by a sony x-polde monoblock and a stinger capacitor (sounds like a small system but the sound is anything but small!) - Comes with a set of 17" mags (2 with tyres are on the back wheels the other two have punctured tyres so just some standard z wheels on the front at the moment, but the other wheels come with it) - has a remote keyless entry system with an alarm , and professional T20 window tint job done - brakes have been re-done about 4 months ago and suspention is good with king springs installed too i belive - bought a new battery just recently too - Certainly turns heads, great stereo and drives really well Bad points: - paint is a little faded and has a dint in the front right guard (where someone hit it with a big bin in a car park accidentaly, wouldnt take much to beat out though) and i have just noticed a tiny bit of rust on one of the doors that i must have missed before, but its not really that bad - air-con pump and belt were removed from engine for extra power but come with the car - i put the re-cond engine in about a month or so ago and it was running great but i had just last week left it at my mates place fo a few days and now it wont start, it cranks over but just wont fire up. i had it towed down to my mechanics shop and he tested it said it had good spark and fuel but no injection pulse...? he told me it was probably the computer that was stuffed as it had some water in it when he pulled it apart, but i have started a new job recently so i have no time to fix it in the forseeable future. i would rather it go to a good home and restored to its former glory than to sit and rot at my place waiting for me to fix it. - i am being as honest as possible so there are no nasty suprises when it comes to an inspection, but it wouldnt take much for somebody fairly handy to fix it, could beas simple as a computer swap, beating out the dint and the rust on the door, new coat of paint and she would be ready to hit the streets in style again, im pretty confident it would pass a rwc if these things were addressed. Im trying to get $3000 for it but im open to offers as i now need it gone due to space. call me Jesse on 0424 341 522 or message me for an inspection or any info. Thanks guys pics up soon hpoefully

lol come on its not that bad also after i took it for a test drive yesterday i noticed it was extremely loud but i thought it may have just been the way that engine sounded, but i put it up on ramps and stands and found the exaust just before the first muffler had a massive split (around 3/4 of the diameter of the pipe!!) so i took it off and welded a cover plate over it and that sealed it. so now its nice and quiet and runs a lot smoother i guess there wasnt enough back-pressure, but it still needs the spring to run P.s i only thought of the spring because the original AFM is supposed to have an inbuilt recoil type spring inside the potentiometer cover and mine doesnt (from the photos i have seen anyway) thanks to everyone who helped me out with this whole debarkle, the advice advice was very helpful!! Jesse

alright i have got it running fairly well now what i did was replaced a few air/vacum hoses and put a small spring on the potentiometer counter-weight to restrict how much the flap moves which sounds bad, but it works a treat. if i dont do this the flap moves too much and sends too much fuel into the engine flooding it. so if i leave the spring off and try to run it it wont start and then i pull the plugs out and there black with carbon and fuel but if i then clean them and put the spring on to restrict the flow it runs fine. im still having a bit of a play arond with the idling settings and timing as it runs nice but seems pretty gutless for some reason??? and p.s mike i have that same manua aswelll its what i have been using to diagnose this problem aswell its a really good document to have!!! but thanks anyway

ok an update on whats goin on. I have sorted out the problem with the excess fuel pressure (seems my uncle who was helping me with the car had unplugged the sensor on the block next to the oil filter for some reason and forgot to plug it back in )but as soon as i plugged it in all was well with the fuel system it builds up pressure and then shuts off after a few seconds and keeps it at the correct pressure so the fuel system is fine! Now the car kicks over and idles but it is still lumpy and blows a bit of smoke, i took the rear cover off the afm so i could monitor it and the potentiometer thing is flapping a bit and if i gently hold it shut it runs nearly perfect, making me think there is some kind of airflow or vacum problem. also what is the easiest way to tune these systems to get them running nice?? i have tried a combo of timing/idle speed adjuster/AFM bypass screw but it doesnt seem to do much (maybe it has something to do with the air problem??) thanks Jesse

thanks pete, i think when i get over there today im gonna get the multimeter out and test all the electrics on the wiring harness and the component switches and relays just to eliminate it being an electrical fault (thus eliminating a faulty ecu) and also i have tried running it without the cold start valve plugged in to no effect, but i might have to pull it out completly and have a look if its jammed or something.Also i did adjust the TPS yesterday but that didnt seem to do anything really either.

well i have replaced the AFM yesterday (before i swapped the computer) to see if there was any difference but it did nothing, so maybe it could be the TPS, i will have a look when i get a chance. and from knowledge the air hoses on my car seem in good condition but ill check them out aswel. cheers

ok i tried re-setting the computer by draining it but that didnt seem to work, then i managed to grab another one the same and put that in and still no difference so i think that there may be an issue with the actuater thing near the fuel pump letting too much pressure through the line to the front. maybe i can find some sort of aftermarket fuel line regulator to fix the issue??? it seems like my fuel pump is contantly cranking when ignition is on and someone told me that it should only run for about 5 seconds then cut out so maybe thats a part of the problem with mine?? any thoughts on this theory guys??? thanks

this might seem like a stupid question but how do i reset the ecu??

ok got it all sorted, basically i cooked the wire that went into the back of the negative battery terminal so when i was cranking it over it wasnt making a solid connection and just burning itself making it get hot. so thats that and the reversed polarity was just my LED light from the immobiliser feeding power through the body (nothing to worry about though). So thats fixed and i have good spark, now the next problem im getting is it kicks over but runs very lumpy and i found that it must be flooding with fuel because if i clamp down on the fuel line with some multi-grips when the engine is running, it runs perfect but when u release the multi's it get lumpy again. Im thinking i might need to replace the fuel pressuer regulater on the injection rail but i think i replaced tha not long ago aswell. any other idaes why this would be happening? Well at least its no longer an electrical problem its mechanical so thats half the battle.

Ok so i have had a play around with different starter moters and to no avail i have the same problem guess its time to bring in an auto elec to try and find the problem, thanks for all the ideas guys i will let ya know how it goes jesse

hi there I was just thinking that it was faulty due to the fact that i tested the same way on my dads 280zx and a stack of other cars and this is the first time i have come across something like this. When i test the other cars i can put the test light to the block and neg post on the battery and it doesnt create a circuit anytime(with neg terminal on or off) as the block is still earthed, but strangely not in my case. the thing im most concerned with at the moment though is the terminal getting hot and not getting enough spark but ill play around with some different starters and see what i can come up with. so much for me thinking i could just drop another engine in and have no dramas lol thanks

well that may be an option as i have a few rb30 engines and parts laying around from my old skylines, ill see how it goes cheers

thanks guys ill pull out the starter and test it out tomorrow and ill let ya know. By the way do you know if there is any difference between starter moters on l28's?? as the one i have on my car (79 model Series 1) looks different to the starter on my dads l28 (82 model Series 2) as i think the new engine i put in my car is a series 2 L28 (if there is such a thing???) maybe that could be part of the issue?? thanks again people ill keep ya posted

the starter in my car seems good (i think i only replaced about 6 months ago) and it has been starting it fine but maybe with too much power is this what was happening with yours? how could u tell it was the starter??? i only ask as we actually got the engine to kick over and run for about 20 seconds the first or second time we cranked it after putting the new engine in but after it had started the terminal still got hotter to the point of it smoking, and that is why we turned it off and now we have this problem. cheers ill look into it tomorrow.

Ok i have had a bit more of a poke around Dizzy is on right because we have been adjusting the timing trying to get it to go, with no luck from what i can tell there are 2 main issues -if i put the pos battery terminal on the battery and then put a test light on the block and that pos terminal it doesnt create a circuit(when it should), but does create a circuit when put from the block to the neg battery terminal. Now when i put the neg terminal on the battery and put the test light on the block and the pos terminal it now creates a circuit and block to neg terminal doesnt create a circuit. for some reason it switches when i put the negative terminal on and off the battery? -when both battery terminals are on the battery its is fine but when i try to crank it the negative terminal gets super hot almost instantly and it seems like its draining the spark away from the coil/dizzy/leads/plugs and heating up the terminal has anybody heard of anything like this before??? or does anyone have any more ideas thanks heaps jesse