wally57

Yes both mine have rust, and one has accident damage at the front. I can repair them, but I thought these might save time if they were ok. I don't mind spending the cash if they fit. but I'm a bit wary spending it without some idea of how good they are.

Don't know what happened with my first post on this subject but only half the question came through on the post. What I really wanted to know was has anybody used the new front fenders listed on Ebay by Fast Phils Rotaries. If so what are they like. Wally 57

I know this has been discussed before but I just want to firstly confirm that front fenders of a 260z also fit a 2+2. Secondly on

Guys, When I bought my 260z 2+2 I was told it was a 1977 model. It does have a compliance plate on it but the idiot who started the repairs on it previously used a screwdriver to chisel the plate off the car and has damaged the last number of the date on the plate. All I can see is 2/7?. The car serial number is GRS30-010341. I have another 2+2 that is definitely a 77 model and its serial number is almost 10000 units higher. As I want to upgrade the brakes it is important that the car is pre 77 so I do need to confirm the year of the chassis if at all possible. Wally

Guys, I know there are several threads on brake upgrades, but as yet I haven't found a definitive answer to my problem, and I was hoping someone may be able to help. The engineer I am using for my engine transplant wants the car fitted with 4 spot calipers on the front using a ventilated disc and two spot calipers on the rear. While the car the discs themselves come off is not important, he has suggested it will make the certification process much easier if I can use front and rear calipers, and the master cylinder off the same brand and model of car, it would also be good if I could use the matching booster, although not essential. Just to make it a bit more difficult I only want to use 16" x 8" wheels with no flares so they will have to fit under them. Wally

SOLD Wally 57

Stripping another 260z 2+2 for interior and other bits and pieces. As a consequence now have a 2.6L engine just have to get rid of due to room restrictions. Engine was running before it was pulled out but have no idea of the condition. Engine is complete as it was pulled out. Comes with original carbies, starter motor, alternator, radiator and cowling. Auto box is also there if some one wants it before I send it to the tip, but I think it may be R/S as the car would drive in reverse. Want $200.00 for the engine etc, but it will have to be picked up from Singleton NSW. Wally 57

Thanks for the responses. Ive got a couple of new sill panels to fit. but I still think I will need to replace the other panels. I don't think the new sill panels will go high enough to get rid of all of the rust

Thanks for the advice, I was hoping that would be the case as it's a lot neater installation. I have to buy a new compressor anyway so I'll have a good look at the ICE unit as you suggest.

Ive got two air conditioning units that have both come out of 1977 260z 2+2's. One is an underdash unit that attaches to the firewall above the front passengers feet. The second is fully intergrated into the dash with the evaporator mounted right up in the centre of the dash. I had intended using the second fully intergrated unit but I've been told I should do a bit more research before deciding which unit to use, because not all of the systems available work all that well. Can anyone give some advice on which unit is the most effective. Wally 57

Guys, I have rust in the bottom of the body panel between the back of the door and the front of the rear wheel arch. I know on a 2 seater it's referred to as a "Dogleg". I'm not sure if it's called the same thing on a 2+2 or not, but anyway that's the panel in question. I thought I read somewhere on this site that you could use the replacement front rh lower fender replacement panel on the lh 2+2 dogleg, and vice versa. But I can't find the post again. Is this correct. Also is the pressing profile on the replacement lower fender panel for a 240z the same profile as for an early 77 260z 2+2. Wally 57

Does anybody know where I can get a set of front chassis rails for a 1977 260z 2+2 from. Either a good second hand set, or even someone who could press a set up for me. Wally 57

I'm looking for either a set of front chassis rails to suit a 260z 2+2, or a 2+2 shell any condition, as long as the front chassis rails are good. Obviously would rather the body shell in NSW, due to transport costs.

Peter, I hadn't even given it any thought. It might be worth looking at, although I might have to run it past the engineer I am using for certification of the engine. He has suggested I should steer clear of any brake mods or upgrades at this stage, at least until the engine mod is passed and the car is re registered.

I thought they might be a bit of a specialist item, but there is a pretty big brake outfit here in Singleton so I'll give them ago, Thanks for your advice.

Can somebody tell me where I can either get a replacement Brake Booster for a 76 260 2+2 or get one overhauled.

Has anybody used stainless steel shrinking discs on an angle grinder to re-shrink panels after dent repair. If so how did it go. I have had a couple of panel beaters tell me they are the go and they use them all the time, but I've also had a couple tell me it's better to just use oxy.

Is the POR-15 ok to use to treat existing minor rust in areas that cannot be reached to clean it up first. The reason I was going for Rust Bullet was that I was told you don't have to clean the rust off the surface before coating, but you do with the POR-15. I bought a snake camera off the internet for $50.00 and have found a little bit of surface rust up inside both air ducts running along the inner guards. Its not bad but I don't want to leave it untreated. I am doing a full bare metal resto on my 260z 2+2 and want to get rid of all of the rust or at least pacify any minor bits that may remain.

I have decided to go with Rust Bullet but when I contacted the parent company to find out where I can get it locally they have told me there is no longer a rep for it in Australia and I will have to get it from some guy in Hong Kong.

I have just replaced a rusted front chassis rail and sections of the fresh air duct at the top of one of my 260z 2+2's inner front guards. I want to treat both of these areas and the rest of the chassis rails with a rust preventative. Based on information included in a previous post dated March last year I was intending to use Rust Bullet, but now have two questions. Is it still considered the best product available, and where can I get it. I can't access the Australian web site for Rust Bullet and according to the international web site the Australian head office is in my home town in NSW, but no one in town seems to have any idea where they might be located. Any assistance would be appreciated. Wally

Hey Lurch, this is my first Z and I realise that I do not have the experience with them that you guys have. But to set the record straight I'm not stupid, I did have a good look at the car even underneath, and short of digging deadner off and scratching the paint to find any bog, I found what rust could be found by eye. The deadner did not have the appearance of being "layed on with a trowel", it was sprayed on and looked like a professional job, there was absolutely nothing to give even the slightest hint there was an issue underneath, or even when looking at the floor from inside. He had gone to a lot of trouble to cover up the rust in the floor and rails etc. I joined this forum because I kept reading posts from you guys saying how you were always here to help newbies get there zeds up and going, I certainly did not join to get bagged for getting caught by a crook. Wally57

Guys, I've just really started to get my teeth into the bodywork repairs to my 77 260z 2+2 and I am devastated. I bought the car of a guy just north of Brisbane and it looked pretty good at the time for a car that was supposedly part way through a full resto. The underside and internal floor was really thickly coated in a tar like compound but looked to be in good condition. Once I started scraping it off however I have found huge amounts of rust in the floor and wheel wells etc that he had glued pieces of shim steel over and covered with this coating so it couldn't be seen. Both Chassis rails from front to rear need replacing as does the floor LH inner guard and entire radiator support panel. I have pulled up on the job and I am now looking at another shell to build on. But I have a few questions first. - Is the body of a 1/76 260z 2+2 the same as a 2/77 260z 2+2 - Will all of my parts fit the earlier model shell. - Where do I find the chassis number on the 260z 2+2 Thanks Wally57

Guys, a question to those of you who may have already installed a Holden v8 EFI engine into a Zed. The VT Commodore V8 engine I have, came from a wrecker and was supplied with a computer and the engine wiring loom etc. While the task of grafting the commodore wiring to the Zed electrics is certainly daunting I feel confident I can work it out eventually, but rather than reinvent the wheel I was wondering if anyone can give me some insight into how they undertook the task.

Guys, I feel like a bit of a dill on this one. I should have explained earlier that the engine I am fitting is a Holden 5.0L 195KW HSV V8. I have only just realised that the cooling inlets/outlets on this engine are different to the LS1 so the JTR radiator is not going to work anyway. I have picked up a new aluminium radiator out of a VR commodore V8 for $300.00 that is almost a perfect fit, and it will allow me to just use standard Commodore hoses etc so it's all good. Anyway thanks for the advice I've still got to sort out fans and you have all given me some good ideas on this to work on. Wally 57

Guys can any of you that have fitted either an LS1 or Holden 5Ltr EFI V8 to your Zed give me some help on how you have set up an air filter. I've spent some time looking at photographs of V8 Z's with LS1 motors fitted but I can't find any photo's that actually show an air filter. Any help or guidance you can give me would be greatly appreciated. Wally