wally57

Jamo, P

Guys sorry to be a pain, but after all of the feedback I got I have changed my mind about trying to fit a mx5 power steering rack and I am now looking for a suby rack. I want it to have 2.75 turns so what all the info on the site is telling me is it will probably need to be out of a WRX. Wally

Jamo, TJ. Thanks for the input. Jamo you got me thinking that it does seem stupid that because I have replaced the gearbox cross member I cannot even strengthen the engine crossmember to take the extraq torque of the LS1, so I harrassed my Engineer again today. It seems he was basing his decision on NSW RTA rules that say "if at least one structural crossmember is not located in the exact position as it was originally then the vehicle will not be classified as a modified production vehicle but will be classified as an individually constructed vehicle". Anyway I have finally convinced him that the lower beam of the radiator support panel is a structural crossmember as is the boxed in beam in front of the spare wheel well. As a consequence he has agreed to allow the engine crossmember to be modified provided I dont reduce it's strength. So I am going to take everyones advice and give the MX5 mod a miss and I will be going with the WRX conversion. With the LS1 I need the steering shaft to run as close to the engine mount pedestal and chassis rail as is possible to give the required 10mm clearance on the LS1 headers and I think the WRX rack will give me more clearance than the BMW one will. Anyway I want to thank everyone for their help and suggestions, now all I have to do is find the right Suby rack. Thanks again Wally

Thanks for all that Jamo it sounds like your mod is working for you and I must admit the BMW rack does look very neat. The problem as I said before is because of the length of time my project is taking my Engineer is making sure the car will comply to current NSW regulations as well as the National Code of Practice for Light Vehicles which could be in place by the time I get it finished. As such apparently one of the vehicles cross members must remain standard. As I have changed the gearboc mount to a Commodore cross member he wants the front cross member standard. He will allow mods to the original rack mounts but nothing at all to the cross member itself or the pedestals so that sort of ties me to the MX5. Wally

Thanks for the advice Jamo. The BMW and Suby installations look pretty good but I am puting in an LS1 and the Engineer is already a bit iffy about the standard engine mounting pillars with the LS1. If I modify them at all I think he will have a real dummy spit. The fabrications not an issue I've got all the gear and been doing this sort of stuff for years, so I can handle that part of the job ok. I don't want to move the LCA mount points if I can avoid it because I don't want to change the roll couple if it is at all possible. What I am actually looking at doing is re-engineering the rack itself to bring it down to the same dimensions as the original zed rack. It won't be easy but I think it can be done, guess I'll just have to give it a go. Wally

Peter, I looked at your build page and it looks like you removed the original rack mounts off the front of the crossmember and modified the engine mount pedestal on the RH side. With the engine transplant I am doing the engineer only wants absolutely minimum mods to the cross member and I think he would probably see the BMW conversion as a bit too much. He was happy with a bit of re-shaping of the rack mounts required to fit the MX5 rack, but thats about it, thats why I am looking at the MX5 even over the WRX. wALLYU

Guys, Have read a number of threads regarding power steering conversions. For one reason or another I am going to use the Mazda MX5 NA rack. Does anybody know where I am likely to pick one up at a reasonable price. The condition does not matter because it is going to be rebuilt after being modified to suit the zed steering dimensions. Wally 57

Wanted MX5 NA power steering rack. Any condition will be rebuilt after modification. Wally 57

ken, Have just sent a PM to see if you still have the roller. Also what the roof is like and the LH rear quatrter panel Wally

Thanks Whitie that is just what I needed. Wally

Thanks lurch, but I suppose I should have explained the reasons for asking the question a bit better. I am installing a 5.0Ltr V8 Holden engine with a 5 speed Getrag gearbox in my 2+2, and I need to work out how much more weight (if any) that will put on the front wheels. If it's much heavier it will cause problems getting it engineered for rego and I will need to work out what I have to do to get it lighter. Alternatively I suppose if I can find out the weight of a 260 engine and a 5 speed manual transmission It won't be completely accurate, but it will let me get some idea by comparing it against the weight of the Holden engine and transmission. Wally

Can anybody tell me what the standard wheel rate (wheel weight) is for a 260z or 2+2. With the number of guys out there that put their cars on the track I'm sure some of you would have to know what your wheel rate is so you can calculate out your spring rates. Wally57

Sorry John I did not intend to get your nose out of joint with my comments, or question the information you gave me earlier via PM. As I said above I received a response from the Rust Bullet importer relating to a question I asked prior to corresponding with you. The response only came back in the last few days, but as I also said I was still not convinced and would not be following Rust Bullets suggested process. Before contacting you I had spoken to a couple of panel beaters I know, and both told me they didn't think the filler would stick to the Rust Bullet, but neither had any experience with it, that's why I contacted you. Your comments are what finally convinced me not to take the chance and act as a guinea pig. I was probably a bit brief with my post relating to the lead wiping and did not explain my situation fully. There will of course be some areas where I will need to use a smear of filler over weld repairs and areas where I have knocked out some dents and other minor panel damage, but since corresponding with you via PM I have decided to replace both rear quarter panels to eliminate most of the rust damage. Consequently the major fill areas I will have to do will be the joins between the quarter panels and the roof, which was previously lead wiped so I assume will have to be lead wiped again. I have lead wiped repairs on cars successfully when I was younger, but also as a fitter working on turbines I had a lot of experience in years gone by re-wiping white metal bearings which taught me the basic skills required, so I am not phased about it or worried that it won't work. But what you said is dead right, it is not easy to do and should not be undertaken by anyone who does not know how to do it. Your also right about learning basic panel beating skills, over the years I have spent a considerable amount of time working with a panel guys and sheet metal workers who have taught me to repair panel dents using slappers, hammers and dollies. And how to weld and shrink panels. These skills are definitely invaluable and no one should take on major body work unless they have developed even just basic skills in these areas. Wally

Thanks guys, Louis from Pacific Protective coatings gave me the same information, but I'm still not sure about taking the chance with it. I'm leaning towards lead wiping the areas on the outer panels, Wally

Yeah I was initially lead to believe that the process you described was the way to go as well, and that was my plan. Since then though I have had a number of experienced panel beaters tell me that the filler won't stick to the bullet coated surface which is what has prompted my asking the question. I have put a lot of time and money into getting this far and don't want to stuff it up. Wally

Quick Question. Are 240z Rear Suspension Tower cover trims the same as used on a 260z 2+2. I want a set of black ones for my 2+2 and can sources ones for a 240z but don't know if they will fit. Wally

Question for the panel beaters out there. I have taken my 2+2 shell back to bare metal and want to coat the entire thing with Rust Bullet. There are areas where sections of panels have been replaced and a number of small dents that will need the application of a thin layer of body filler. Is it acceptable to apply body filler over the rust bullet or should it be applied directly to the bare metal before the Rust Bullet is applied. My concern is that every time you remove filler you seem to find the base metal underneath has started to rust. Regards Wally

Looking for set of black trim for a 260z 2+2 don't necessarily need seats or even front door trims although they would be nice, but I do need rear tower covers, back seat side trims and plastic bits etc. I am in vic until the end of the week so could pick up from Melbourne if any one has set available. 0408733630 Wally

Yeah, thanks Lurch sort of thought that was where I would end up, but I was half hoping someone might have a good one on an old parts car they might want to sell. I've got a really good right hand one on my parts car that I will be using, but also need the left. Wally

Guys, I'm looking for the bottom 200mm section of a left hand rear quarter panel for my 260z 2+2. Mine has rust but even scarier is the previous repair job that has been done on it. I am on holidays at the moment and I am in SA until Sunday morning, but will be in VIC next week so if someone in the Adelaide or Melbourne area can help I would appreciate it. Happy to pay a reasonable price for a good one if available. I do not have direct internet access but will check from internet cafes etc or you can ring me on 0408 733 630. Thanks Wally

Point well and truly taken. I am after a full seal kit etc for two calipers. Knowing the model now I have found suppliers on line that can supply parts for two calipers for around $40.00, which is about half the budget price Toyota quoted me. Thanks for the advice. Wally

Guys, Sorry if I am rehashing an old question. I realise this has probably been covered in previous posts but I couldn't find it anywhere. I have a set of S12+8 Hilux calipers to suit vented rotors that I want to put on my 260z 2+2. I realise their are more effective choices available but I got them for nothing and the car is only going to be a road car so they should be ok. When I went to my local Toyota dealer and referred to them as S12+8 hilux calipers the guy just stood there looking at me and said he didn't know what I was talking about and he needed a model and year of manufacture. Can anyone tell me exactly what model Hilux they came off including year models so I can order parts for them. Thanks for your help Wally

Thanks for the tips guys, but I already have the stuff off the inside, It took a couple of days to get it all off with a chisel and mallet, I wish I had taken the time to ask about shortcuts before I did it, I obviously could have saved a fair bit of time. As for the underside at least the car is on a rotisserie now so I can set it up so it is comfortable to work on. Well as comfortable as it can be when doing this kind of job. Wally

It's not going to be a daily drive but it will be driven regularly at weekends etc. I am building it to drive and enjoy, and not just look at, and I'm not in too shows. I suppose I am more concerned about the amount of rust I found under the deadner particularly inside the car. And yes it is a big job but it's all part of the experience ??. I have been scraping it off with an assortment of chisels then buffing the panels back to bare metal with a wire wheel and then grit blasting into the tight spaces. Been on it for about three days so far and I am about half way through the underside. Been working pretty much been working on the car most nights and weekends for two years now, so this is just another job. Wally

Guys, I am currently taking my 2+2 shell back to bare metal by hand. Until I started doing so I didn't realise how much deadner was on the car both inside and underneath. After repainting do you normally put as much back on. Wally