GregTas

Thanks.

I had been using the Matsui ones from SW because  he sells them as the "heavy duty" ones.  I was surprised that they have the grease gallery in the cross, but they've held together.

Hi,

So I need to make up a new shortened tailshaft for my car. I've got a donor tailshaft, but I don't know what car it came out of. It's either a 260 2+2 or possibly a 280ZX..

I'm going to put some new unis in it. 

Do 240s, 260s and 280s all have the same unis? If not is there a way to measure it up to work out what I have?

Thanks,

Greg

14 hours ago, JDM-TOY said:

26psi on E85 

Thought it boost would be quite high and E85.  

I was getting 270kW out of my RB25 at 16psi on 98 fuel.

Now running 18psi, so probably about 280ish.

280kW is a good effort out of a 2 litre. How much boost to get that?

E85 or 98?

On 3/27/2021 at 12:24 PM, Millerman said:

Did it change the pedal feeL at all?

Sorry missed you post. I haven't been on for a while.

Yes it did, but my firewall had some flex because it was is chopped out a bit behind the booster. It had twin m/cs on it before.

I've always found the R31 rear calipers shitful to work with. I'm sure they're only the common disc conversion because they bolt and you have a handbrake, so still street legal.

I was quite fussy setting mine up, but still have the issue with handbrake cables running close to half shafts, bleed nipple not at top, so have to unbolt the caliper and rotate on disc to bleed.  A bit annoying.

For a road car with occasional track use, it's a bit of effort for no real gain and a handbrake set up that's not as great as the drums. 

If your drums are ok and you can adjust your brake shoes up if/when needed, then perhaps not a bad option to stay with drums..

If you're not able to sell it all in one lot, it'd be interested in the dog legs.

Greg

Not pretty or light, but functional. Two bolts through wheel arch holding it in place. M14 bolt to master cylinder for adjusting up, with locknut. 

Any 240Z shell with no rust will be part of a complete car. Usually only find stripped bare shells when there's so much rust they're uneconomical to repair.

So bare 240 shell = an awful lot of rust. 

A project for the brave. I have seen this 260Z body and can confirm it does need a bit of work. 

He's got the quarter panels, they're just not on the car and extra. Rusted through over wheel arches.

Seller open to offers.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/740335446098903/

Yes something like that might work, but had thought bracing to strut tower might make it work better. I'm trying to come up with something that doesn't look too ugly..

I do wonder with that Apex design how well it would work with all that light weighting and how much it has reduced the stiffening.

Hi folks,

I'm getting a bit of movement in my firewall under heavy braking and wanted to put a brace on the front of my master cylinder. Not helped by fact the firewall was chopped a bit for dual brake cylinder set up. I'm just running a single boosted master cylinder.

Has anyone made a brace or got photos of one?

I'm ok with bolting one in to engine bay behind or on the strut tower, or welding bracket in if needed. The car isn't that pretty. Advice or suggestions on reinforcing firewall not required, just a design for a brace.

Thanks.

The heat gun worked a treat 

4 minutes ago, gav240z said:

Probably not good. 

I see the start of a race car there.  Less work needed to chop the guards out for a set of bolt on flares.

It would obviously need someone that can do the bodywork themselves to race car standard. Won't be the prettiest, but a body and bits for $1500 sounds ok. I might have taken it on if it was closer to home.  

Two on my car had been stripped at some time and were tapped out to 7/16 UNF. Yes it's not metric, but if you went out to M12 there might not be much metal left if it is a nut above.

1 hour ago, JDM-TOY said:

 

So, in one of my previous post I had put up a picture of my dash that I had the Dash Dr repair and had all the gauges calibrated and the clock serviced. After some discussions with a few people regarding the old technology from the 70's that we would have issues getting the correct readings in the old gauges. I decided to get a Haltech IC-7 Display so that it would match up with the Haltech Elite 2000 and everything new going into the car so that I don't get caught off guard when I'm out driving the car. 

Since I had had my dash repaired, I could not find it in me to cut it up to install the IC-7 so I sourced another dash from Carlos at Sports Classics to have the IC-7 moulded and recessed into the centre of the original 240z dash replacing the original gauges. After the IC-7 has been moulded in I will send this dash over to the Dash Dr to do a full repair on it so that it is vacuum sealed as one piece 

Has anyone attempted to try this before?

I'm running a Haltech Elite 2500 in my car. RB25. I  put original sensors on engine so the factory gauges work.

Surprised to hear "regarding the old technology from the 70's that we would have issues getting the correct readings in the old gauges" There is no reason why this would be the case.

Because I'm running the RB25 I had to remove the speedo drive to get the gearbox in the tunnel without chopping it. So the speedo signal comes from a pickup on the front wheel. Speedo signal into ECU. I then used the OBDII output signal on the ECU to drive a display. This is the unit  in front of my steering wheel. It can display any engine signal you want. I have mine setup to display water temp in degrees, battery voltage and speedo. About $50 on ebay. I feel this is more subtle an in keeping with a 1970s  car than a big display. Although looks like you've already bought your display.

These locks with keys are hard to find. It took me about two years to find one. This person on ebay sold new ones. He has none listed now, but he might be able to get hold of one. You could ask him.

I think the lock and key was about $60. Of note, for the one I bought the arm was out by 90 degrees and so I had to modify it and rotate by 90 to get it working.

On 8/28/2020 at 2:48 PM, gav240z said:

wanted a fun car, I reckon it would be an early RX-7 (although getting pricey), an MX-5 (also hard to find under $10k now) or maybe a 370z (prices coming down).

But I've not driven the early RX-7's or the 370z's yet. 

I had a series 1 RX7 many years ago and it gives me some of the best memories of all the cars I've owned. Very good car all round. Even with standard body and ride height at 200 kmhr it felt really stuck to the road and like doing 60 kmhr. Much nicer ride than my GTR and 240Z. For a mass produced car It really was a leader back in 1979 for its styling and aero

Unfortunately like the 240's getting old and so very hard to get one that's a reasonable driver and doesn't require major investment. Repro parts probably harder to get hold of too.

Well done. Looks neat. 

or rear brakes off an Aus R31 Skyline. That's what most do because a bolt on conversion and easier to find parts.

There is a thread on here somewhere with all the details. You need the calipers, mounting brackets and rotors. Because Aus car rotors can be bought cheap.

Fubar floors. And even then I was able to just replace back half of floor. 

Always nice to keep a car with original metal if possible.

Perhaps get someone to fix up the dents? Or if needed cut out bad bits and just replace them.

There is a bit of work in cutting out the complete floors and rails and replacing them. It is possible to just remove floors without rails. Once floor is out the dents in rails could be tapped out from the top side and their insides can be inspected, treated and sealed to lengthen their life.

Worth thinking about before chopping them out.

Welcome. Yes looks like a nice solid car.

The floors must be worse than they look in the photos to be replacing them.