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aircobra

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Posts posted by aircobra

  1. right answer for the 260s, i think ( presume both pics are of 260z by looking at the extra brackets) 

    so you can see in the 240, the drier is on the LEFT and on a vertical bracket. the only place that is possible is on the tower strut.  but as you know its very close to the air filter, so it must be a very small unit placed very low on the tower. alterntively, it could be forward of the tower and placed low opposite the compressor

    cant believe it - a million photos of z on the net and not a single one of this setup

    anyway, i will post some pics soon. i've just about finished the evaporator housing    

  2. on the basis that i ve never seen a 240 factory setup ever. i dont actually know. the parts diagram only shows the evaporator side  and not the condenser or the drier. the firewall holes on the rhd 260s were on the LEFT side, so the hoses muse have been the left.

    ive seen photos of 260s with the factory  drier mounted in front of the radiator, not on the sides of the engine bay

    with so many after market jobs on both 240/60 its hard to tell

  3. does anyone know where the dryer goes?

    on some pics on the net, the dryer is on a bracket just behind the strut tower and opposite the air cleaner. looks like there are two mounting holes there, but the dryer would be pretty close  to the standard air cleaner

    on some others, its low just below the coil and opposite the compressor?

    anyone have any legit pics?    

  4. as i've seen discussed may times on the forum, there are no aus delivered 240s with the factory air

    since i'm making an in-dash system, i'd like to know if anyone knows where and how the drain pipe should work?

    the evap box sits directly above the tunnel and i can find any photos or drawing

  5. based on my experience,  the conclusion is that the ebay/zcardepot reproduction cylinders for 240 are made from a different alloy to the original and degrade much faster . my ones lasted 3 years and that's parked in a garage 

    https://www.localsearch.com.au/profile/south-coast-brake-resleeving/southport-qld/TUxP

    charged $70 per wheel cylinder in stainless with the rubber seals

  6. i'm fabricating an A/C bracket and the specs to this welder say up to 12mm plate

    https://www.edisons.com.au/rossi-155amp-mig-arc-mag-gas-gasless-welder-dc-welding-machine-inverter-tool/?___store=default&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIucDprL-G8AIVQ0NgCh0zdAXpEAQYBCABEgJkcvD_BwE

    i'm not making much progress on even max setting on penetrating the 10mm plate ( using gasless 0.8 wire)

    1.has anyone used of these welders for that purpose?

    2. are there any pro welders on the forums in SE Melb that can do the weld?

    Thank you

      

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  7. ok. the story is that i went to change shoes on my 'aug 71 plated z due a fluid leak ( more on that later). picked up a set from supercheap - bendix BS1339

    had a compare to the old ones ( not really old, about 3 years old) and they look different

    see the phots. you can see the hole for the rattle pin is off by about 2 cm. went to the zcardepot site ( first photo) and sure enough the OEM shows match my old ones. states that it fits 240/260 are the same

    trawled the net and found these

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-PROTEX-Drum-Brake-Shoes-Rear-For-NISSAN-260Z-S30-2D-L-B-RWD-/122227897918

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-PROTEX-Brake-Shoes-Rear-For-NISSAN-240Z-S30-2D-Cpe-RWD/124063324500?hash=item1ce2c01954:g:JA4AAOSw1kxeL9Hm

    so sounds like the bendix catalogue is wrong?

     

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  8. while i was going thru the rear end looking for the diff clunks, noticed that brake fluid all over the rear wheel cylinder. got a new set from zcardepot about 3 years ago, so pretty cheesed about the quality

    anyways, i see that a replacement pair will cost me around $150-200 and I'm guessing that they all comes from the same generic factory in china . so, rather then go thru the same process again in 3 years, does anyone know who can resleeve the old ones in SS?

    thank you 

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