Ducer

Could it be the fact that it is my imagination? The car has 14" wheels with 195/50 or 60 R14 on it. Maybe I should try putting 15's with 205s on it and see if it makes any difference. I can stick my hand vertically from top of tire to fender, a good 4" gap at least. I guess it may be the 14" wheels and 195's OMG, why are S30 Z's so damn difficult when it is so simple????????? From electrical, to everything, Z's have the simplest designs but so damn near stupidly difficult issues arise from them. Whyyyyyy!!!??

Hey guys, I recently bought shock cartridges and eibach lowering springs for my early 74' 260z. Shocks: New cheap "Monroe" sensatrac inserts x 4 $90 Eibach lowering springs: Used, progressive. (part#6305 001 Longer length and 6305 202 Progressive which Shorter) Now, I've read and installed the springs correctly. 001 longer springs in the fronts, and 202 shorter progressive springs in the back. The front didn't lower at all, it still has about 5" from tire to fender lip. Which is absolutely the same or even higher than how it was originally. So I assumed I installed it wrong, but checking it over and over, the parts number and everything seems to be installed correctly. Fronts 001, rear 202. Longer fronts, Shorter progressive in rears. Now, my concern is that I assume 240z and early 260z are the same isn't it? As the part numbers are cross referrenced the same. I know the Later 260z and 280z are the same. So I am perplexed. Is it the lowering springs? The monroe inserts (which are installed correctly since it is impossible to install them incorrectly. Any ideas?

Im still having a hard time figuring how to make mine work..... I have an early 74' 260z and I've upgraded to the ZX (E12-80) dizzy. The car runs superb. But I've tried to get the tack working with absolutely no luck. My tach: 3 Wires: Black (ground), Green,Red/black (Bullet connector) Other wires for bulbs: Red/blue, Green/Red, Green/White, Green/Black Unused: 2 wires from 260z dizzy: Green/red, Green/white Coil +: Black/White and Black/Blue (which goes to ignition switch) Coil - : Goes to C on (e12-80) 12V ignition to: B of (e12-80) as well as to Black/white to Coil + Blue wire: (most likely the negative trigger?) ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- After reviewing the FSM, I see that : *GREEN from the tach is jumped and connects to Black/White somewhere in the circuit *Blue is suppose to go from Coil (-) to tach bullet connector But my issue is that my tach has (RED/BLACK) bullet connector, WTF??? I've traced all the wires, Green/red, Green/White, Blue, black/white all go into the Transistor I hear about putting a 2.2k Ohm resistor on the bullet on the tach, as well as get an "AMP" which came on the factory coil of the ZX to make it work. It's getting so complicated as it should be so easy. HELP ME.

Yes, I've read that, It only gives you the options to buy a 280z tach or buying after market autometer. Im looking to use my 260z tach since it works and now I need to wire it to work. Still need help........

Hey mates, So I just installed a 1979 Electronic dizzy from a 280zx with the E12-80 module on my early 74' 260z, and it's works Amazing.............The dizzy and car is awesome but the tach is my next dilemma. Now I tried to google and searched all the forums, Zcar, hybridz, classiczcar, and I couldn't find an a diagram on how to make the 260's tach work. Please let me know what I must do. So I have the following as info: 1. Green/White 2. Green/Red These two wires were from the stock distributors pick up. 3. Blue wire which was on the negative on the coil (which I assume is the Tach signal?) Now If I hook up the #3 blue wire, or one of the other #1 or #2 wires to the Negative of the coil, it does not start, or when it's running the car will die. I hear that I have to use a 10K ohm resistor? But which wire? Where on the wire? and Where to hook it up to? Can someone just draw me a crude picture on MS paint and let me see. Here is my set up now. The Blue, Black/Blue, Green/White, Green Red, not used. Which one is tach and what must I do? Thank you.

Hey gents and ladies. Looking to put a Nardi wood wheel on me 260zed. What hubs will work? 240sx? s13/s14? Just need a cheap....cheap hub. HKB or ebay?

OOps, I apologize, I mean "Speedometer" fluctuates. Tachometer/rev is fine. Okay, I got it guys, the speedometer signal is off the coil. As for the Transmission, I did put some Synchromesh and 80/90, I'll change the diff oil. Thanks gents. i SHALL look up the speedo in FAQ

Hey guys, I have a couple of questions. 1. My tach does seem to work, but it fluctuates up and down. What does this mean? Must I grease the ends? Note: this car probably has not been running for years, until i bought it. 2. I had my 260z on jackstands and drove the car in the air, the rear driver side wheel spins freely as I am in all gears, the passenger wheel seems to want to spin but hardly moves and only skips. Do I have an Open Differential? VLSD? or fluids in the pumpkin is bad? Note: The fluids probably never been changed in years, but why would only one wheel spin? or will the other wheel catch only when there is friction as a VLSD. And do 260z come with VLSD ? Thanks.

Yes, I guess the 280zx dizzy swap will be the next mod in the near future. at the moment, the car runs great, so I am not touching anything. Thanks.

My Starter on my 91 M30 took a couple of days ago, so I had a friend took it all apart. Brushes were great, points were all clean, all contacts cleaned, the solenoid opened and cleaned. The start spins, but not hard and fast. It will engage and whine but no torque. So once cleaned, we put and back, and still the same, no torque, only spins but not fast or hard enough. Went and bought a new starter, installed. Bam. Cranks great. So, from this my friend who is a Nissan Master Mechanic said, motor is bad. You can have it all appear and look good but something inside is not right, so not worth the troubles. $105 and it's solved. I recommend just getting a new one. $158 - $53 core= $105. Not bad. Z might be a little more, but none the less the same idea. But it's good to try the "cheapest" methods first, because most of use aren't too rich.

Oh, awesome, I understand. Thank you very much. I'll check it tomorrow see if I get 12v cranking and 9v at idle. Im just so happy the car starts and runs. It started up all day today and idles perfectly as well, so darn happy. Finally I can move on to electric fans, body work, transmission, etc. Thanks again.

Figured it out. The timing was about 20* off. I had my friend who is the master Nissan Mechanic, did the timing completely. He had removed the oil pump and set it. Before, the TDC dizzy rotor pointed in between #1 #4, and I was perplexed, and thought that it's not a big deal. He had to remove the oil pump and reinserted so that the dizzy rotor was at true #1. The car started before, but seemed off, NOW, it's perfect all 6 are firing and sounds like a monster. Thanks for the help. Now I have to deal with the + lead going to the coil. When the car is on the "ON" position, I get 12v to the coil, when I am cranking, it goes to almost 1 volt. Is this normal?

Oh yeah, the GTO is a BEAST of a machine here. Probably one of the most talked and loved Car.

Yeah, the color is an Old Ford Blue, I believe Duplicolor makes it. I also like the oem Datsun blue/green, but I wasn't going out of the way to get it. 2 spray cans for dirt cheap.I like it, it's old school. Good eye, that is a 1971 MG MGB GT, I got the Zed because of the MG. My step dad has a 1970 Camaro RS SS, and my friend picked up that MG for $1,100 and $800 for a Mazda Turbo II 13b engine, so all this "old schoolness" kinda got me roused up. We have an American (Camaro), MG (British) and I was thinking, heck, Z (Japanese) and let's see which would be the nicest and fastest. We are at a competition with each other and thus I have to put a lot of work, and I am ahead of both of them so far. IF ANY OF YOU NEED PARTS FROM U.S.A. LET ME KNOW, I'LL SHIP IT TO YA. I GO TO THE JUNK YARDS OFTEN HERE. THERE'S TONS OF USELESS AMERICAN CARS, and weaksauce japanese imported cars that have less HP and smog crap. =) In America, we LOVE E.D.M, JDM, Canada DM parts, and Ausie parts. I think in Japan they love American Muscle? I guess people want what they can't have.

So the Condenser with Small Blue wire goes to the "POSITIVE" of COIL. HERE IS WHAT I HAVE: Coming in there are 3 wires coming in: 4 wires out. BLACK/GREEN IS NO USE: SINCE IT NEVER CAME IN. BLACK/BLUE IS PROBABLY NO USE, A/C? GREEN/RED AND GREEN/WHITE FROM THE FSM IT IS CORRECT TO THE DIZZY. GOT THAT. THERE IS ANOTHER BLACK/WHITE LEAD BRANCHING OFF THE MAIN BLACK/WHITE WIRE, WHERE DOES IT GO TO? LOOKS LIKE FACTORY BRANCHED OFF. So it should look like this?

Hey guys, thanks for the welcome. The Ausie/Euro Tail lights are somewhat rare over here, fetching $150-200 for the set. I had the car for about 2 months now and i've put some time into it. $700 for the car and I spend $400 for used carburetor set up and header, $100 on paint, and used a lot of hose and tubing and anything I could find from left over projects. Im about $1300 or all together. I did everything myself because that's the whole reason of working on your car. Before: Stripped the paint. Roof. Chiseled off the OEM sound deadening material. Failed! Stock engine and engine bay. Flat top anchors. Chipping off the sound deadening material: 6 HOURS at least. FREE Better but rusty: Por 15: 1 quart: $43 bucks Engine OUT: Free Paint engine: $11 for 2 cans of Engine spray paint $21 for 3 cans of "truck bed" coating $ free for left over Dupoint Clear from painting my 240sx $20 for 3 cans of "Rubberized undercoating" $380 for the used Clifford manifold, Holley 390cfm, and header. Made hardline fuel line: $15 for the tubing bender, Tubes are Free from S13 left over. Made hardline for Booster vacuum line, free. Here is how she sits now. My cheap budget 260z.

Well, my 1974 260z started and ran a few times since I got it It ran this week actually. I recently pulled the engine out and painted it, and did a some what restoration on the engine bay. So recently: 1. New NGK plugs 2. New Duralast Wires 3. Coil is Old looking and it has signs of being 5-10 years old. (Have a newer coil will change soon) 4. Cap and Rotor seems okay, but probably old (Will change soon) Issue: 1. Didn't want to start. It tries and I can hear it fire on a cylinder or two 2. I had spark jumping through the wire and randomness. (I believe it was running 12v through the coil thus the Jumps) 3. NOW I have the wiring set as pictured below, and the "extra Black/White wire is not in use) Some sparks at the spark plugs seem "Stronger" some are Faint and weak. Orange / Weak spark Overall. Some stronger, some very weak. Please see the picture below and let me know "WHERE Does the extra "BLACK/ WIRE GO TO?" (i assume to the Positive of the coil? AND if my wiring looks correct. The previous owner did a lot of "mikey mouse" wiring, and I've had to clean it up as much as I can, and FSM and Haynes etc, don't seem to have "condenser" and other things. Correct? Wrong? Please Let me know. THANKS!

Hey Mates, My name is Duce and I recently purchased at 1974 Datsun 260 Z (zed), Had a few extra bucks from selling one of my many (S13) 240sx, so I bought the Z for $700 USD. The car is complete with an L26, has a decent engine, New fuel pump, EDM/Aussie Amber Red Tail lights with the deal, a pair of 240z tail lights, new tires and RUST but I POR 15 most of it already. Carburetors give me a headache. Turbos, ECU, Injectors, Gauges, Tuning on my S13 I had an easy time with, but some how Carburetors make me angry and im so impatient. Oh, I threw those Flat Top carbs that came with the car in the trash. =) So im here, and you'll be seeing lots of post from me, being that in this Z is a 1974, the notion of my existence wasn't even in my parents heads until 10 years after that. Duce.