neRok

I happened to be flicking through an old Unique Cars mag and found it in there (as referred in this thread actually).

Sounds like you're onto it, but a couple of other leak points could be the brake booster diaphragm, which is usually evident by air hissing around the brake pedal, and if you have an auto transmission with vacuum going to it, it could also be causing a problem.

Don't listen to this guy!!! 1 stud will line up, and all you have to do is cut the other 3 off with the grinder, and then the wheel fits.

Just put my car up for sale, but I'm hoping to sell it within Perth so someone can keep it registered/on the road without drama. www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/clarkson/cars-vans-utes/1976-datsun-260z-coupe-350-chev-v8/1124241471 $15,000.00

Makes sense, cheers. I think I'll just leave it alone like gilltech suggests though!

The area in the red square. Majority of the wires seem to be black. Is this even a factory loom, or remnants of an alarm or something (black wires make me think that)?

I've just painted the radiator support area, and got an area that is 'spotty'/grainy. Just thought I would get the opinion of some pro's as to why this happened? It is the same on both sides. I went back to bare metal, etched, surface+high-build primed, then put on the black. No sanding in between (I don't think this area is that important). My guess is it is overspray from high-build that built up after spraying the vertical surface that is parallel with the radiator.

I'm selling some Nissan factory service manuals, one of which covers L series 6 cylinder engines. See http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/-/122051010424?

I will probably sell my 260z 2+2 soon. It's registered and engineered with 350 chev, and would tick all your boxes. I would have been happy with around $20k, but if people are willing to pay more, then I'll charge more At least that gives you an idea though.

After the blasting, you would get it coated. The blasting will remove the rust, and you will be left with holes/pitting everywhere there was rust. I would get it blasted and primed, because it is only going to cost a couple thousand as you are finding out. Then you can assess it further, and if you decide to sell the car, it would probably be beneficial to future buyers to have it already stripped so they can see what they are getting themselves into (also, you should be able to raise the price a little and get your money back for the blasting).

Don't forget that lines counterpart... "Nothing wrong with it... just needs this 1 thing replaced, which I have a new one of in the box" I sold a car like that on the weekend. I was very upfront about the problems, but the bloke was still concerned regarding the driveline (which didn't have problems). I think his fears were dismissed after he purchased it, and I heard him flogging it up the street

His previous link points to https://mobileworkshopsupplies.com.au/ I notice red76z sells KC Tools. They seem quite good from my experience. My house mate a few years back was a mechanic, and got a full set of KC when he started his apprenticeship. Everything just seemed to work good. I ended up pinching a 1/2 ratchet to replace my sidchrome one that was on the way out, and it is still working great years later. I believe KC and Kinchrome were once the same company.

FYI, mine was engineered and registered with a v8 in QLD, and I had no troubles getting it registered in WA.

Is that reasonably priced? Mine is similar in most regards, but is rego-d and engineered with a 350 chev, and I'm just trying to get a feel for the value.

I know the feeling. I drove my car from Darwin to Perth when there was some big rain in the Kimberley. PS - the car is actually white jk