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240Z Hazard Switch


acf321

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Tridon TF122 - THERMAL FLASHER

- Not polarity sensitive - can be used on positive and negative ground vehicles.
- Suitable for flasher & hazard light applications.
- Flash rate is influenced by load variation.
- Operating Voltage 11 - 15 volts D.C
 
Load Rating 2 to 6 x 21 watt, 12v lamps (6 x 21W = 126W /12V = 10.5Amps)

 

http://www.tridon.com.au/products/Tridon/35/478/flashers-and-relays/104172/flasher-relays-thermal/1777/TF122

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Thanks mate, I fixed my post also. Although it seems to work either way? Any potential negative side effects of having them 1 way or the other?

 

Disclaimer: I'm not an electrical engineer (far from it).

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Thanks mate, I fixed my post also. Although it seems to work either way? Any potential negative side effects of having them 1 way or the other?

Disclaimer: I'm not an electrical engineer (far from it).

 

An electrical engineer used to live in my house!  ::)

 

Most, but not all, flasher cans are not polarity sensitive.
Having said that, I just did a Google search for "Niles flasher polarity" and the top 10 results all said "Make sure that you maintain proper polarity" or words to that effect.
It looks like you just got unlucky.

 

The description of the Tridon TF122 that you have now used says that it is not polarity sensitive.

The reason that I chose an electronic unit over a thermal unit is that I might change to LED bulbs in the future.

One advantage of thermal units is that if a bulb blows, they tell you so because they start to flash very quickly.

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Great post guys. So what's the difference between the series 1 dash hazard switch and the console hazard switch below (are they different markets) and where does the on/off dash decal go?

post-100937-0-05133700-1483772866_thumb.jpg

post-100937-0-35219100-1483772965_thumb.jpg

post-100937-0-01611800-1483772997_thumb.jpg

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The middle picture for the console is for the parker lamps, not a hazard switch.

Left photo is the early hazard switch, middle photo is defogger + parker lamps (Japanese market) and the right photo is the on off switch decal that would sit next to the switch to indicate direction for on and off. RHD dashboards don't appear to have the indentation for that decal/sticker.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 8 months later...

Very helpful read thanks guys.

 

I am in the same situation, i have found the loop wire, but cant find the other 2 wires.

 

I have found 2 attached to a sounder? is this what i am after, or other wires somewhere else. 

 

post-104531-0-73592500-1506319036_thumb.jpg

 

post-104531-0-08293700-1506319048_thumb.jpg

 

post-104531-0-47743600-1506319054_thumb.jpg

 

 

Also, i dont have a switch, so was looking at these, will any of them work?

 

https://jdm-car-parts.com/collections/electric-components-nissan-datsun-fairlady-z-240z-260z-280z-280zx/products/hazard-switch-for-1969-1971-1-2-datsun-240z

12-J4501RE-1_medium.png?v=1404427013

 

 

https://jdm-car-parts.com/collections/electric-components-nissan-datsun-fairlady-z-240z-260z-280z-280zx/products/hazard-switch-for-1971-1-2-to-1972-datsun-240z

12-J4502RE-1_medium.png?v=1399674139

 

https://jdm-car-parts.com/collections/electric-components-nissan-datsun-fairlady-z-240z-260z-280z-280zx/products/hazard-switch-nos-for-datsun-240z-series-2

12-J4160-1_medium.png?v=1399667327

 

 

Thanks all! :)

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Very helpful read thanks guys.

 

I am in the same situation, i have found the loop wire, but cant find the other 2 wires.

 

I have found 2 attached to a sounder? is this what i am after, or other wires somewhere else. 

 

 

I think the two wires (green-white) shown in the last photo (?going to the sounder?) are for the turn signal flasher unit.

Maybe this sounder has been added to make a louder noise when the indicator(s) are going?

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I think the two wires (green-white) shown in the last photo (?going to the sounder?) are for the turn signal flasher unit.

Maybe this sounder has been added to make a louder noise when the indicator(s) are going?

Thanks for the reply. Yea, i cant find anything that shows they came with sounders stock.

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That sounder thing is not OEM, never seen it. Sounds plausible that maybe someone wanted to hear the indicators better and had that fitted?

 

Any switch will do, the differences are dependent on year. The flash type is early (hence I prefer it) the standard looking hazard symbol was 72+ and then in 73 they got the pull out type which lights up via optical fibre cable.

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Very helpful read thanks guys.

 

I am in the same situation, i have found the loop wire, but cant find the other 2 wires.

 

I have found 2 attached to a sounder? is this what i am after, or other wires somewhere else. 

 

 

Not sure if this wiring diagram (wire colours / connector type) will help as it is for the first of the 260z models and it appears the early 240z models did not have the L shaped connector.

 

post-105219-0-32668800-1506385561_thumb.jpg

Edited by AndBir
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  • 1 month later...

I recently did this in my 1971 240z while i had the dash out and was redoing my wiring.

Bought an american flasher switch, bought a 12v flasher unit and plugged it into the green/white and blue/white spade connectors that come out of the dash harness with all the other plugs.

 

Bingo bango bongo, hazards!

Easiest mod ever, if only it was all that easy.

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  • 2 months later...
  • 3 years later...

hello - just a question, those of you that bought the American hazard switch, did you get the switch rebuilt prior to installing or just bought a second hand one, removed the loop back plug from your wiring harness, crossed your fingers and plugged the hazard switch straight in and hope for the best?

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2 hours ago, Swirlything said:

hello - just a question, those of you that bought the American hazard switch, did you get the switch rebuilt prior to installing or just bought a second hand one, removed the loop back plug from your wiring harness, crossed your fingers and plugged the hazard switch straight in and hope for the best?

Switches are pretty robust. I've got 1 that's broken (inside plastic) which I have been meaning to 3D print forever to fix. The switch can be disassembled and cleaned if required, but so far most of mine have worked fine. It's the flasher can that usually packs it in.

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