Sirpent Posted March 8, 2010 Author Posted March 8, 2010 Unless you have almost a weekly use for a compressor at home, going over $500 for a new or used compressor would be overkill. When it comes to a MIG, I wouldnt start looking for under a $1000, For a compressor,I'd be looking at something locally produced, not The China specials out of super cheap or bunnings, even second hand local is a better option with around a 4HP rating, 15-20 CFM and a 100LT + tank capacity. Sorry buddy thats about all I can recommend unless someone else out there may have some more advice. Cheers John Oh, and thanks for the thumbs up on the write up, I hope to do the next part as soon as I finish the nose for the car. Quote
sexual_sushi Posted March 8, 2010 Posted March 8, 2010 No probs mate, thanks for the info. Can't wait to see how your car turns out. Quote
FLEXZED Posted March 8, 2010 Posted March 8, 2010 I have a 16 cfm compressor for over 20 years now and i paid $700 back then and it has never missed a beat, like my evil twin said , the water seperater is the most crucial component when spraying paint as for the mig i have a little uni mig i bought from CIG (now know as BOC ) and if i am working on the car its a awesome unit but welding thicker metal it does to over heat and shut down ( but thats ok because its BEER time) Loui Quote
reverendzed Posted March 8, 2010 Posted March 8, 2010 Just bought one of these and it will run all your air tools and your spray gun. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/AIR-COMPRESSOR-16-CFM-3HP-3-CYLINDER-50L-COMPRESSOR-NEW_W0QQitemZ170453445590QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Air_Tools?hash=item27afd12bd6 Hope that helps. Rev. Quote
RB30X Posted July 23, 2010 Posted July 23, 2010 Hey John, where's part 2? I've got a bonnet that I'm preping and need your next episode. Need to know what sort of primer/filler to use. cheers Quote
Sirpent Posted July 23, 2010 Author Posted July 23, 2010 Hey Tim, Well Part 2 would have well and truley been up and posted by now if my boy hadnt gotten so sick and I ended up taking the time off work for my annual leave like I'd planned, unfortunately the last almost 2 months has been like winter in Siberia as far as my build is concerned and any progress on it. But seriously, cant you find a better bonnet than that ????? Maybe it looks worse in pics than it is, Im kind of the same, not very photogenic. What are you planning? Quote
Zedsabbath Posted July 23, 2010 Posted July 23, 2010 A trick that usually works good for small rust holes Tim is soldering neat little bits of clean sheet metal underneath and building the solder up so it can be filed of on the outside of the panel, sounds a bit bodgy but if it's done where the repair can't be seen with rust proofing or insulation it's an inexpensive, quick and effective way to ensure the panel remains all metal It's conducive to lead wiping except you're filling a small hole Pete Quote
jamo240 Posted May 8, 2011 Posted May 8, 2011 Hi Sirpent.. That's a great piece you've written on panel prep...we all appreciate the work you put into the words and taking all the pics etc. I was wondering if you're thinking of doing one on dent removal/lead filling etc? These are areas almost all Z's need work on, and a few tips on how to do this kind of work could be handy. Cheers mate, and thanks for the great write up. Jamo Quote
Sirpent Posted May 12, 2011 Author Posted May 12, 2011 Hey Jamo Thanks for the thumbs up on the tutorial, in the next few days I will probably have Part 2 up as we are working on Simon's car this weekend and there will be a lot of de-denting prepping and then application of the Polyester EP Primer. Will see what we can do about capturing some dent removal shots and words also. As far as lead loading, sorry buddy but its a lost art and a waste of time also, if you prep the panels properly and work out large dents so you don't end up using shovel loads of bog, plastic filler out performs lead every day of the week, granted on turret seams its great, but for general repairs i wouldn't even bother. Cheers John Quote
Patch Posted May 12, 2011 Posted May 12, 2011 Good read +1 on the Little Beaver spay unit , would have worn out about 10 units now over the years, great for doing onsite steel work, we used to use them to paint all the steel beams for structural steel buildings, I have done a great job painting a boat in 2 pak and 2 pak hand rails inside a building, they cause very small amounts of over spray compared to a compressor gun if you have no spray booth. They will not push though to thick paint or under seal which a low pressure gun is best with a compressor. Quote
Sirpent Posted December 30, 2011 Author Posted December 30, 2011 Sorry guys, some months off at the very least, other priorities around the car at the moment. But when it is time, will do a Vid tutorial. Cheers John Quote
cypher Posted January 15, 2013 Posted January 15, 2013 is there a part 2 floating around somewhere ? Quote
AndBir Posted August 7, 2023 Posted August 7, 2023 Ten years later new products are around : Rust Solutions Rust Remover Gel https://youtu.be/UerJxGuvtAM https://youtu.be/oxMjRvCKL04 Quote
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