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Peter T's 75 2+2


peter t

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Well got the box out today and apart and suprise suprise the nut behind 5th gear cog was slopping around like a @@##2 breakfast. So much for paying pro's to make sure this box was OK. Moving along I bought a SR20 box today and the task ahead is to get this in ASAP and back on the road. Will be better off in the long run, I hope with better ratios etc. At least that's what I am told by learned people on this site and what the wife believes after much bullsh@t to her by me. Well now it is off to the threads to study how to get this SR20 box to fit. 8)

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Well getting some more work done to change the gear box. Bell housings are at the workshop and should be back early next week along with the tail sharft. I am using the small counter sharft bearing to save a bit so as the old front cover does not have oil channels I have picked the oil seals out of the front bearings to let the oil pass through. Refer pics of covers to see what I mean. I down loaded a SR20 manual and was quite helpful in removing and hopefully putting this thing back together. Thanks to Lurch and Whittie's guidance I am getting this done. Thanks to Tom for all your help. 8)

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  • 3 weeks later...

Finally got the work done on the bell housing and all together. Made a great gearbox cradle out of a milk crate and a bitof timber. Worked a treat and the box is in  with only a few more bits to bolt up next weekend. Only have to wait  for the rear mount to be fixed as my mate is off to Hawaii fishing this week. Hope to be back on the road next weekend. 8)

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Ah fair enough. At least the box isn't too wide. You able to keep the original ears on the tunneland just modify the cross member then? Shouldn't be too hard if you can keep the mounting points.

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All under control mate. Just following Whittie's and Lurche's instructions. Tail sharft is also shortened by 50 mm. Also have a short shift kit to go in so all should be good. Will post results. 8)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Some pics of mount mod. Have it all in and went for a drive and with the short shift gear lever mod it is great to drive. A good tune and it will be a dream. Next thing to do is get my spare diff done up as the one in the car is clunky and noisy, and the drive train will be complete. At least I can now go for a drive, if only short distances. 8)

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  • 1 month later...

Now I have half resolved the problems with the motor rebuild I received my new manifold  and bits from Dave at Arizona Z Car today. As my car is to be really good road car I am going with the Holly 390CFM set up to eliminate the problems with tuning old SU carbies or set up and tuning costs of triples. Now I have to save up for the Holly. 8)

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NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!

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It's two carbies short of being a complete zed! goodbye induction noise..  :'(

I am deaf Dimitri so I wouldn't hear it anyway. I'm going to have four barrels sucking not three. That has got to be a +. That is when I put my foot down if the cheese and kisses lets me. She doesn't like the way I don't slow down for corners now. {I'm only doing 60 dear} WHAT DID YOU SAY. Sorry the window is down and look at me when you talk and sit back in the seat. ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D 8)

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  • 3 weeks later...

Peter Mc has given it the thumbs up for a street car and enzo250GTO runs it in WA with good results. He swapped triples for this setup and ease of tuning. Look on the bright side two SU's are only two barrels now I have four. 8)

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Hello Peter,

              Looking Good. Sorry for the delay getting back to you with the pictures but have been organising a job change. With the setup as it is open the throttle fully to make sure the choke fast idle screw doesn't foul on the manifold. (mine had to be modified). If you purchased the throttle cable from Arizona Z as well this can easily be fitted to the original linkage as in my pictures. Heat shields are handy too if made from stainless steel to protect the throttle cable and the vacuum plug on the rear of the carb. I ran the vacuum advance from the carb and used the blue alloy vacuum fitting for the carbon canister lines and also for a vacuum guage when tuning. The carbon canister is still fitted for original look but is blocked off with plugs in the lines. A "T" piece is fitted near the canister for an internal mounted vacuum guage. By the way. Drives great. :) :)  Hope this helps

David

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