Resto mods you wish you’d made…(and ones you’re glad you did).

[RichyRich]

So, just starting out with the restoration of our newly purchased RS30. And, while I have some plans for what we’re going to do, I’m curious to learn from others, in particular I’m wondering what mods or restoration steps that in hindsight you wished you done, but didn’t. Maybe like, using new wiring looms than dealing with an old and potentially unreliable and possibly damaged loom, that once is installed isn’t so easy to take out and replace. Or, maybe there are a few specific things you did do, and are very glad you did.

Just trying to avoid the same mistakes, or repeat the same good ideas!!

Cheers, Richard 

 

 

[C.A.R.]

That's a bit of a 'how long is a piece of string' question, as it depends on what you are planning to do...

'73 onwards wiring looms have more wires and the plugs are colour coded and not available new. Unless it's been butchered, it's can be reused.
FWIW the last '73 I did, we unwrapped the loom, inspected it, fixed any issues, then re-pinned the terminals and re-taped it.
I do recommend fitting a new modern fuse box though: https://www.thezstore.com/product/4750/msa-fuse-box-short-pigtail-72-73-240z as the originals are almost always damaged in some way.

If you are modifying it in any significant way, I would suggest you 'dry build' it before paint to avoid damaging fresh paint. 

[RichyRich]

Yep... did cross my mind it could feel like asking how long.  But..for whatever plans someone had, if they really regretted not doing something, or nearly didn't do something and are so glad they did... they would be very aware. They mights just not end up being relevant for my plans. Which are still evolving.But they essentially involve:

• L26 engine
• Tripple Webbers
• 5 speed manual box (don't know what options exist)
• Subaru A/C system
• Possibly a body kit (flares, side skirts, air dam, haven't seen a spoiler I like yet.)
• Possible after market front suspension to eliminate rumour of bump steer

Thanks very much for the link, info on the fuse box. They sound good.

I'm planning to assemble the entire electrical system by itself, as much as possible, on the garage floor, all switches, gauges, lights, electrical components, and verify it works. I definitely have a few rat chewed wires. Insulation must taste nice. 

 

Edited July 14 by RichyRich

[C.A.R.]

• 5 speed manual box (don't know what options exist)
  280ZX / S2 bluebird '71B' is a bolt in.
  You can fit a 71C box from an S13 or R31/2 Skyline, but it requires mods and is not DIY friendly.
  You will also need to consider your diff ratio, as the auto diff is very tall.
   
• Subaru A/C system
  I've not heard of this. Another option is an AC system from a later 260Z is a bolt in, or you could go Vintage Air.
   
• Possibly a body kit (flares, side skirts, air dam, haven't seen a spoiler I like yet.)
  Each to their own, but none of the bodykits of seen for a Z improve the looks.
   
• Possible after market front suspension to eliminate rumor of bump steer.
  It's not a rumor and it gets worse the more you lower a Z.
  And it's a significant undertaking to deal with it, and none of the adjustable suspension kits on the market adequately deals with the issue.
  I suggest you speak to a Zed specialist - either Les Collins or Stewart Wilkins.

[RichyRich]

Thanks! Some very useful tips there. The Subaru AC is my own idea. The daily is an outback and I like the system in it. I think it might be feasible to install into a Z. The think the hardest parts would be fabricating brackets, mounting, ducts under the dash, and if the heater core, AC core, blower would fit even with those adaptions. Then, wiring for the control module. It would be really nice to have a thermostat controlled heater / AC, with electronic controls not cables on sliders. Looking at generic aftermarket units, they’re not designed for a Z either, judging by comments in this forum. Why pay $3k for new parts for a system that doesn’t fit, when I can get all the bits secondhand from a wrecker for likely a lot less, that maybe doesn’t fit any worse?  We shall experiment and explore…. Cheers!

[OdinZ]

On 7/14/2026 at 10:05 AM, RichyRich said:

Yep... did cross my mind it could feel like asking how long.  But..for whatever plans someone had, if they really regretted not doing something, or nearly didn't do something and are so glad they did... they would be very aware. They mights just not end up being relevant for my plans. Which are still evolving.But they essentially involve:

• L26 engine
• Tripple Webbers
• 5 speed manual box (don't know what options exist)
• Subaru A/C system
• Possibly a body kit (flares, side skirts, air dam, haven't seen a spoiler I like yet.)
• Possible after market front suspension to eliminate rumour of bump steer

Thanks very much for the link, info on the fuse box. They sound good.

I'm planning to assemble the entire electrical system by itself, as much as possible, on the garage floor, all switches, gauges, lights, electrical components, and verify it works. I definitely have a few rat chewed wires. Insulation must taste nice. 

 

- If you have to rebuild the L26, look at rebuilding an L28 instead. Depending on your budget for the motor, you can get a decent build out of Pearl Automotive Engineering (VIC).

- Buy brand new Triple Webers from Weber Performance (VIC), and go straight for 45s. Even if you put the L26 in, and an L28 is an option later on, atleast you will have 45s already. 


 

[AndBir]

10 hours ago, OdinZ said:

Buy brand new Triple Webers from Weber Performance (VIC), and go straight for 45s

If you go this way make sure you get the 45 DCOE 152G Weber Carburettor that has the 4 progression holes.

You will need to specify what engine specs you have as it will influence what chokes, idle jets,  emulsion tubes, and  main jets are required in the Webers- best to get advice on this as it becomes expensive to replace all of these.

[RichyRich]

Thanks very much! The engine in an L26, but not matching number. It’s been “rebuilt” and I think doesn’t involve any modifications. So it’s a completely standard L26. I intend to run extractors, not the standard exhaust, but at this stage have no modifications planned for the engine itself, and the only mods are the intake, webbers, and exhaust. But a different cam shaft might make those modifications a lot more beneficial, so perhaps we’ll change the cam. I’m pretty comfortable doing engine and mechanical work. I did read some threads here on webbers, and the debate of 40 vs 45s. I’m inclined towards the 45s. But it will be a few years before the engine gets installed.

Also curious what people think is the best surface treatment for the cars underside when repainted. Some chassis you see painted on the bottom identical to everywhere else. Others have some sort of black coating, perhaps sound deadening, or rust prevention? Keen to make sure the car has good noise, vibration, and handling qualities, because those aspects give a car a feeling of value. 

 

[C.A.R.]

On 7/21/2026 at 2:47 AM, RichyRich said:

Also curious what people think is the best surface treatment for the cars underside when repainted. Some chassis you see painted on the bottom identical to everywhere else. Others have some sort of black coating, perhaps sound deadening, or rust prevention? Keen to make sure the car has good noise, vibration, and handling qualities, because those aspects give a car a feeling of value. 

In our shop, from bare metal we Epoxy, then prime, then mask off the rails, stone chip the flat panels, then apply body colour over everything.
IMHO This is the most professional way to go about the underside of a Z:

 

 
 

[AndBir]

On 7/21/2026 at 2:47 AM, RichyRich said:

Keen to make sure the car has good noise....qualities

I went with some products from Car Builders :

1) Insul-Layer - applied to inside of doors and rear quarter panels

2) Mass Noise Liner - used in place of the old sisal under carpet areas and on the firewall.

From their web site :

"Sound deadener is generally a misunderstood material. Normally the first stage of treating noise is referred to as ‘sound deadener’. This stage only really treats vibration in panels. It was often a bitumen-based product but more commonly consists of a butyl rubber with an aluminium top layer. Cheaper sound dampening sheets consist of a lower grade butyl, which is not as durable or resistant as those used by leading brands. Butyl sheets by themselves however, will not result in dampening droning or external noise that you may be more interested in treating. This will be treated more successfully with mass loaded vinyls. If you are aware of the type of sounds that are annoying, you will be able to treat them more successfully with targeted products."

[RichyRich]

On 7/21/2026 at 2:01 PM, C.A.R. said:

In our shop, from bare metal we Epoxy, then prime, then mask off the rails, stone chip the flat panels, then apply body colour over everything.
IMHO This is the most professional way to go about the underside of a Z:

[RichyRich]

(Ok, not sure why it won’t let me add my text..)

Possibly how long is a piece of string, but can I ask here what would be a typical price for that process, assuming the car is “roll in” ready? Though it will be years before we are in that situation. Cheers….

[gav240z]

I love originality, but for me...

• Upgraded Brakes
• Fuel injection and modern ECU
• Air Con (for hot summer days in Australia)
• Upgraded wiper and heater / fan motor.

Makes the car infinitely more usable all year around.

[joe71_240z]

Would be interesting to start a discussion thread mods you wish previous owners HADN'T made!