Datsun 240z- CX Racing RB26 Oil Pan, Engine and Transmission Mount Kit

[Bachie]

Hi all,

Just thought I would share.

I last year bought a rusted 1970 240z  roller they had also came with an L28 that was mated to i think a 4spd Auto. I had always planned to go down an RB route but couldnt get started till now. So here I am now

 

 

 

So anyways, Ive got a bit of a project a head of me but prior to placing it onto rotisserie and sending it off to the blasters, I wanted to mock fit the RB26 and new r34 GTT Gearbox into the car first to see how everything fits and check if anything needed to be modified within the tunnel as I was told engineers could become quiet difficult and picky once the tunnel has been modified. RB needs to come back out anyways as i will require a rebuild.

 

I purchased the swap kit from CX Racing. LINK: https://www.cxracing.com/ESK-OP-RB26-240Z

- Oil Pan

- Oil Pick Up

- Engine Mounts

- Transmission Mount

 

So everything arrived by the 2nd week of January (mainly waiting on the RB from Japan).

 

First off, L28 engine+ Auto comes out.

 

The original oil pan bolts are too short to fit through the new oil pan.

 

Ive got some M6 x 30mm bolts to mock fit the sump on.

 

Then i mated the tranmission to the RB (Sandwich plate is not installed as I dont have one yet but im only mock fitting for now)

 

I noticed, there is still a small opening between at the bottom behind the oil pan into the bell housing. The original oil sump covered this area. Not sure on what to do here, either I make something to cover it up or look for a bracket. If anyone knows or can point me to the right direction that would be great!

 

Anyways, engine mount goes on.

Left side

 

Right Side

 

Also note. The original oil dip stick will need to be relocated as the oil pan is now towards the rear.

 

Here we goo!! (Got the wife helping  )

 

I gotta admit, this took me some time to get it all in, aligned and mounted properly.

Had to rest it on stands, adjust the chains and rotate it every so often to get it in place.

 

Left side

 

Right Side

 

Underneath

 

From the front

 

I do have concerns at the top where cam breathers are. Not sure if the bonnet would latch and shut properly so I'll give that a go over the weekend.

I might still be able to rejig the engine around as I have fully secured it all down yet.

 

Transmission mount plate with Nismo gearbox mount. It mounts directly up to the orginal braced mounting locations which is perfect for me

 

So yeah... that its from me for now. It will come back out very soon for sand blasting, panel work and paint.

If anyone has any pointers or things to look out for that would be greatly appreciated.

P.S experiences with engineering an RB in NSW would be greatly appreciated too!

Cheers!

Tim

Edited January 24, 2022 by Bachie

[ScottyD]

Hi Tim, The sandwich plate should cover up your bell housing gap, it does on my rb20 det gearbox. If you haven’t spoken to an engineer yet I would find one and contact him to discuss what he will require you to do to pass.

Attached is a list of engineers. 
https://roads-waterways.transport.nsw.gov.au/documents/business-industry/examiners/vsccs-bulletin-01-licensed-certifiers.pdf

[vosadrian]

Bice work @Bachie! I am looking at going a similar way.

Question on the engineers side of things. I presume fitting an RB required engineering by default. Is it easier to go from a stock registered Z to engineered RB, or is it the same effort to take an unregistered car and get engineering, blue slip and everything done in one hit? Many Zs seem to have been unregistered for a period during restoration and are often modded requiring engineering to be rego'd. Is this a well worn path that is simple to do? Anyone know?

[ScottyD]

Why spend money putting an L series in it then take out to RB it. You’ll still need to pay an engineer so I would go straight to the Rb. Contact an engineer and they will help you through the whole process.

My car was engineered 20 years ago buy a previous owner, I contacted the engineer that did it and he was very helpful and willing to discuss a possible new engine change no charge.

His name is Brian Brady and contact details are on my previous post.

Edited January 25, 2022 by ScottyD

[vosadrian]

Thanks Scott! I was thinking the same.

[Bachie]

On 1/25/2022 at 6:10 AM, ScottyD said:

Hi Tim, The sandwich plate should cover up your bell housing gap, it does on my rb20 det gearbox. If you haven’t spoken to an engineer yet I would find one and contact him to discuss what he will require you to do to pass.

Attached is a list of engineers. 
https://roads-waterways.transport.nsw.gov.au/documents/business-industry/examiners/vsccs-bulletin-01-licensed-certifiers.pdf

Thanks Scotty!

Thats very helpful. I was told that these engine mounts won't pass engineering as it's U shaped and needs to be boxed up on the under side. Once it's out I'll weld on another plate behind it. 

Also I'll probably need to brave the transmission mounts a little further. Not confident 2 bolts will hold together the new power, but should be simple enough to add extra tabs on the end a have 2 bolts come through from within the cabin into the tunnel.

Regarding the gap behind the sump, I'm missing the gusset from transmission to RB block. "Lower brace bracket"

[Bachie]

On 1/25/2022 at 2:05 PM, vosadrian said:

Bice work @Bachie! I am looking at going a similar way.

Question on the engineers side of things. I presume fitting an RB required engineering by default. Is it easier to go from a stock registered Z to engineered RB, or is it the same effort to take an unregistered car and get engineering, blue slip and everything done in one hit? Many Zs seem to have been unregistered for a period during restoration and are often modded requiring engineering to be rego'd. Is this a well worn path that is simple to do? Anyone know?

Thanks mate!

I agree with Scotty. But if you weren't going to go to an RB or another series engine swap for that matter, then going up to an l26 or l28 is much easier to pass.

Going to an early RB26 will require that I meet and pass all the emissions and compliance of that year for this engine. Which is going to be a bit if $$$ so I'd rather just go thought the process once

[vosadrian]

Is an RB30 block easier than RB26? I think the RB30s in the VL were released around mid 80s. Do you need to do any emissions testing? Emissions was pretty basic in the mid 80s. They only just started using catalytic converters (and many cars did not have them) and fuel injection was only on some cars. 

[Bachie]

On 1/28/2022 at 10:49 AM, vosadrian said:

Is an RB30 block easier than RB26? I think the RB30s in the VL were released around mid 80s. Do you need to do any emissions testing? Emissions was pretty basic in the mid 80s. They only just started using catalytic converters (and many cars did not have them) and fuel injection was only on some cars. 

Not sure. Best to speak to an engineer with regards to this. If you stick to stock and make it a complete swap as is then you may be able get away with emissions, however if you start to "upgrade" manifolds, cams, turbo etc then I believe you will need to re-test and comply with current emission standards.

[Kingy]

Any updates on this one?

I'm just starting my RB26 engine swap with GTT gearbox using the CX Racing sump and mounts. Looking for any tips or tricks with the whole process.