240ZBUILTBYME Posted February 10, 2022 Share Posted February 10, 2022 3 hours ago, ND240Z said: I was planning too. Unless there is a reason why I shouldn't that i'm unaware of? Was curious as I was planning to zinc plate my hubs too. I’ve seen it done on a few builds and it creates a nice contrast against all the black. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C.A.R. Posted February 10, 2022 Share Posted February 10, 2022 Research 'Hydrogen Embrittlement'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240ZBUILTBYME Posted February 10, 2022 Share Posted February 10, 2022 (edited) 6 hours ago, C.A.R. said: Research 'Hydrogen Embrittlement'. Ok homework done papa lurch. Had to do an engineering degree to understand lol One thing I couldn’t find an answer for was, what actually causes the hydrogen embrittlement during the zinc plating process? Is it a chemical reaction or the temperature of the bath that makes the metal susceptible to HE. And if the plating process does cause HE can most platers use temperature controls to expel the hydrogen and avoid the HE? im assuming that’s a service you have to specify and pay for if your plater is even capable of it. coz otherwise how do we replace our high tensile bolts for a Resto? Edited February 10, 2022 by 240ZBUILTBYME Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ND240Z Posted February 10, 2022 Author Share Posted February 10, 2022 (edited) 1 hour ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said: Ok homework done papa lurch. Had to do an engineering degree to understand lol One thing I couldn’t find an answer for was, what actually causes the hydrogen embrittlement during the zinc plating process? Is it a chemical reaction or the temperature of the bath that makes the metal susceptible to HE. And if the plating process does cause HE can most platers use temperature controls to expel the hydrogen and avoid the HE? im assuming that’s a service you have to specify and pay for if your plater is even capable of it. coz otherwise how do we replace our high tensile bolts for a Resto? From what I’ve read, you just need to make sure that the parts are baked over 190 degrees, that expels the hydrogen. Good stuff, would’ve never thought that to be a thing. Edited February 10, 2022 by ND240Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ND240Z Posted February 15, 2022 Author Share Posted February 15, 2022 The NOS pile so far. Pretty proud of the stereo surround and radio. Absolutely cannot wait until i can actually fit these! Shameless plug but i'm always looking for more new old stock. if you have anything at all feel free to PM me! Part's get back from Media blasting tomorrow - and scheduled to be painted this weekend. Finalised and dropped off all parts that need to be zinc coated gold/silver. This included the inner dash frame too. I did speak to them about Hydrogen embrittlement and they do offer that service too which was great! 2 month lead time to get all of it back - need to go back and drop off the bumpers/chrome bits for them to re-chrome too. and after a long weekend, a little spin out in the other semi-old Nissan never hurt anyone... gilltech, gav240z, sexual_sushi and 2 others 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csp-311 Posted February 15, 2022 Share Posted February 15, 2022 On 2/5/2022 at 1:21 AM, 240ZBUILTBYME said: And if you get a chip - which is easy with powder coating - it's bare metal underneath, and rust starts very quickly buy moving UNDER the powder coating. Next thing you know, a chuck of powder coating comes off to expose a rusted suspension member underneath. That is dependent on how you treat the bare metal, here you can have steel zinc blasted, so a coating of zinc is blasted onto the bare steel and won't come off . My Z suspension springs are bare (no paint/powder coat), and after 12 years still no rust. Not saying "its the way to do it" but there other ways to do things. Nice work by the way ND240Z, makes me feel like the body of the csp I am restoring isn't that bad (but it is). ND240Z and gilltech 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ND240Z Posted February 25, 2022 Author Share Posted February 25, 2022 Got some parts back from the paint shop. Loving the finish! Ordered some KYB Shock absorbers for the front and rear. Had to trail fit one into one of the suspension housing's. PS: Getting the original Gland nuts off to remove the Original gas struts was an absolute nightmare I never want to relive again. Luckily the KYB kit came with new ones. Had the driveshafts all sent away to be restored by a local mob (Daniel Engineering). Soo happy with the results - Unpainted OEM Uni-joint's (with grease nipples) and metal covers, OEM rubber boots too. The first official restored piece for my Z. :') gilltech, rubberman and sexual_sushi 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ND240Z Posted March 10, 2022 Author Share Posted March 10, 2022 Some more nice New old stock parts arrived. Headlight combination switch, Series 2 Hubcap centre ornaments and Sumitomo front brake pads. The switch is correct for RHD, but the wiring seems to be slightly different to my original switch. I'm assuming this may be a Series 1 switch? If anybody knows if this is correct, let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilltech Posted March 10, 2022 Share Posted March 10, 2022 AFAIK it's the other way around. My early '74 260 has its original switch, same as the one on the right in your picture, with the squarish beige coloured plug. And I have a spare I removed from another early 260, matching same same. My car has those beige coloured plugs throughout its wiring loom. I also have a spare switch I picked up on eBay (from a parted-out 2+2, the year I don't recall, but a later car than mine) and it matches the version on the left in your photo with the bigger style translucent white plastic plug. As you've discovered, they don't interchange, different size, different design entirely. So I think the translucent white plastic plugs came later. I don't know if there are more than the two S30 switch versions, but I wouldn't be surprised if there are, given that Nissan kept tweaking things during the S30 series production. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted March 10, 2022 Administrators Share Posted March 10, 2022 4 hours ago, ND240Z said: The switch is correct for RHD, but the wiring seems to be slightly different to my original switch. I'm assuming this may be a Series 1 switch? If anybody knows if this is correct, let me know. I believe earlier switches may have been a bit different to later ones. I think you beat me to buying that 1 on Gumtree a couple of days ago? Good price for NOS around $500? If you decide to sell the old switch let me know? I have rebuilt them before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ND240Z Posted March 19, 2022 Author Share Posted March 19, 2022 Rain gutters and lower A pillar inner and outer complete. Fitment is perfect. Very happy with how these turned out. The rain gutters aren't spot welded in place just yet, i will need to get both rear quarter panels on and trail fitted first before any of that can happen. I also have to look into how i'm going to replicate the factory lead wipe joins that are all around the car (bottom of windshield, top of windshield where the roof meets the A pillar, rear quarter panels) ... Not sure if anybody does that these days and I don't feel like body filler would be the best thing to do here. Suggestions? The driver's side Windshield pillar outter 'triangle' piece was too badly rusted out to salvage - This part is particularly tricky because it isn't a straight piece of metal that has a few bends - it has a slight curve to it which would be extremely hard to make. So i have acquired a rust free cut from a donor car that should be here soon. That'll be another job ticked off! Next job on the list will be to complete lower windshield catchment area by remaking the lower wiper motor bracket piece (super easy, looking forward it) and then sealing, painting and re-installing the cover piece ontop of the whole thing. (Can be seen sitting in the car in the photo above). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickF Posted March 19, 2022 Share Posted March 19, 2022 Using lead is straight forward make sure area is clean apply tinning paste heat and wipe ,heat metal and lead stick and push in place when covered melt lead and smooth with hard wood paddle then file to shape. You can't really go wrong if you do just heat and it all ends up on the floor. Don't inhale fumes or create dust. Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C.A.R. Posted March 20, 2022 Share Posted March 20, 2022 Lead is very old fashioned & you have to be careful of your prep and clean up of it, otherwise it can bleed though the paint... It's also dangerous if you inhale it. We use UPOL metal epoxy filler in those original lead loaded areas over the top of epoxy primer. ND240Z and Oliphips 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ND240Z Posted March 23, 2022 Author Share Posted March 23, 2022 Wiper motor bracket - had to remake the inner section between the two mounting holes. This concludes the wiper area now, the top cover can technically be welded back into place, but i will leave it off for now, i plan to paint and seal the area first before it gets covered back up. Overall very happy with how this area turned out. and some compulsory before shots. I have no idea why these are being uploaded in the wrong orientation. But you get the point. Next up - firewall repair patch. After that is done then the car will be ready for the front clip to be put back on and then it can finally be put on the rotisserie. I have sourced another front end which is much, much better than my current one, so this will save many hours and the finish of the job will be better. C.A.R., KatoKid, AndBir and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ND240Z Posted March 26, 2022 Author Share Posted March 26, 2022 Done some work with the KFvintage RHD firewall patch today. Cut and nearly ready to weld in. C.A.R., AndBir, gilltech and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ND240Z Posted May 6, 2022 Author Share Posted May 6, 2022 Got a second set of front end clip panels from over in NZ. They looked great in photos but upon receiving them, the passenger side piece has been cut and re-welded in many different places which is a shame (Black marker lines on the panels are weld lines). Drivers side has a few strange things too but not overall that bad. Mocked it all up today just because of curiosity. Pity it won't align and weld itself together! 240ZBUILTBYME and AndBir 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ND240Z Posted May 21, 2022 Author Share Posted May 21, 2022 So I needed to make a proper transportation Pre-rotisserie Jig. No more jackstands! Made from 50x50 Mild steel. Found some schematics online and followed them. Naturally, the measurements were a little wrong, so I did need to adjust as i went. It bolts to the base with 4 brackets. Connects to the front & rear diff mounts, gearbox crossmember mount, and when the front clip it is, there's a provision there for the engine crossmember too. Pretty happy with how it turned out, was a little fiddly but its pretty square all around. (+-2mm). Took me around 12~ hours to make. Its definitely nice to manoeuvre the car around the garage very easily! Now i can get to finishing off the firewall patch and floors. I also dropped off all my running gear to Stewart Wilkins motorsport for a full restoration. AndBir, Dragonball240z and 240ZBUILTBYME 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240ZBUILTBYME Posted May 21, 2022 Share Posted May 21, 2022 Wow your build is progressing quickly! Awesome work. when you got your shell blasted initially they just did it on jack stands? mine is about as rusty as yours and am thinking of following a similar path, strip majority of the panels off so the internals can be blasted, rust repair then blast and epoxy again. ND240Z 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ND240Z Posted May 21, 2022 Author Share Posted May 21, 2022 2 hours ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said: Wow your build is progressing quickly! Awesome work. when you got your shell blasted initially they just did it on jack stands? mine is about as rusty as yours and am thinking of following a similar path, strip majority of the panels off so the internals can be blasted, rust repair then blast and epoxy again. Thank you mate. I just borrowed this little home made trolley jack thing and it was enough to push it around. Taking the panels off is the only one to get all that rust away, sadly. Once i put the quarter panels/roof skins/front clip, then it'll get blasted AGAIN and then put in proper Epoxy primer. Ready for filler and paint. 240ZBUILTBYME 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndBir Posted May 22, 2022 Share Posted May 22, 2022 15 hours ago, ND240Z said: then it'll get blasted AGAIN and then put in proper Epoxy primer So no phosphoric acid metal prep treatment prior to primer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ND240Z Posted May 31, 2022 Author Share Posted May 31, 2022 (edited) On 5/22/2022 at 1:51 PM, AndBir said: So no phosphoric acid metal prep treatment prior to primer? I'm not sure what the process my blaster recommends, but i'm open to every option. Little more progress before the firewall patch gets put in. This little section on the passenger side was rusty and had previous repairs and the outer edge was badly welded in various places from the old front end.. So needed to make a piece for it. I copied the outer shape from the drivers side, but it doesn't seem to be the same of the KF vintage patch. Thoughts? Still waiting on a lower repair section, but pretty happy with how it turned out. Also had all my stuff zinc plated. A little bit more to pick up this weekend, including the dash frame. Once that's here, the dash goes to the Dashboard doctor for a re-skin. Cant wait! Edited May 31, 2022 by ND240Z Dragonball240z 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240ZBUILTBYME Posted May 31, 2022 Share Posted May 31, 2022 1 hour ago, ND240Z said: Also had all my stuff zinc plated. A little bit more to pick up this weekend, including the dash frame. Once that's here, the dash goes to the Dashboard doctor for a re-skin. Cant wait! How nice are freshly plated parts! Hubs and flanges look awesome. Did you end up discussing nitrogen embrittlement with the plater? What was the outcome? and what prep did you or they do to the parts prior to plating out of interest? gilltech 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ND240Z Posted June 1, 2022 Author Share Posted June 1, 2022 12 hours ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said: How nice are freshly plated parts! Hubs and flanges look awesome. Did you end up discussing nitrogen embrittlement with the plater? What was the outcome? and what prep did you or they do to the parts prior to plating out of interest? Thanks mate! Yes the heavy stuff (axles, hubs etc) were de-embrittled. I done no prep at all prior to dropping them off - I didn't even bother cleaning them! 240ZBUILTBYME 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ND240Z Posted June 4, 2022 Author Share Posted June 4, 2022 Picked up the rest of my parts from Zinc plating. Pioneer plating done such a great job overall. Dash is back on the metal frame and will now be sent away to get reskinned. Front brake's rebuilt. So very easy to do. I couldn't help myself, put the diff housings back on with the refinished hardware to see how it all looks and wow. What a result! 240ZBUILTBYME 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDM-TOY Posted June 11, 2022 Share Posted June 11, 2022 @ND240Z Did they dunk the whole dash to Zinc plate it? Looks amazing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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