ND240Z Posted January 23, 2022 Share Posted January 23, 2022 (edited) Hi all, absolutely horrible at introductions but my name is Nick. Located in Wollongong NSW, I thought i would share my 240Z build on a forum instead of random Facebook uploads here and there. HS30-100650 - Matching numbered L24 with original E88 head. Original 5 speed manual gearbox. 11/72 Date stamped spare wheel TOPY and same date stamped on seat base. The dream: As much as i'd love to do a mid 80's/90's Japan FairladyZ ZG build, i've decided to do a complete OEM restoration - as if the car drove off the assembly line and straight into my garage. This means original TOPY wheels, hub caps, exhaust etc. The only difference my car will have will be a completely body colour painted underbody. The car will be going back to its original 901 Silver paint in due time. The car was originally Metallic silver - I assume once it had its front end accident, one of the previous owners decided to paint it green. It was painted green everywhere except for the interior (underneath carpets/trims etc) I knew about this particular Z for over 10 years. Everytime i met with its former owner, i would hassle him about buying it - until one day the message came that he was ready to let it. It sat idle in one spot for over 24 years until i got to save her. Shady past: After getting it back to my storage yard (House was being built) I took off the front end panels to see what i was working with. Right away it's past accident history pops up. It has what seems to be a 260Z front end from the firewall forward. So this would need to all come off, be repaired, and be refitted. Lucky for me, whoever "welded" the front on from the firewall forward had simply stitch welded it quiet poorly which meant that if i was careful enough, i could simply grind away the stitch welds and the panels would be like new. (no need to drill out spotwelds, which means i can refit it using a proper spot welding machine, giving me the OEM spotweld look). I did do that, and it came off really easily - literally an hour's work. Pictures tell a thousand words so i will let them do the talking mostly. A few months later, new house is built and the strip down can commence. (Aug 2021). I did find another pair of guards in the mean time to replace my rusty 260Z ones with - but i have since found mint examples since then. \ It did not take long at all the make the car a complete bare shell. Alot of cross bracing was added to the car to make it structurally rigid whilst it was being repaired. I'm sure you all know how much metal these car's dont have, so this is extremely crucial when removing majority of the bodies rigidity. Once it was all finished, this is what I was left with. Not much of a 240 left! The car got sandblasted and left in Epoxy primer - once the car is all back together, it'll be sandblasted again and put in a few coat of Epoxy primer again. Repairs commenced! Both rear wheel arches with lower inner dog legs repaired. Rear roof frame gutter area's needed attention. But from what i've seen, this is not too bad around there. These lower gutter A pillar spots were very rusty on both sides. I had Lachlan F make me up some rain gutters for both sides, i then replicated the inner piece and welded it into the car. The windshield lower cowel piece was completely gone. Had to reproduce this. Still need to remake the wiper motor mount but that'll be pretty easy. The floors were completely gone too, so new KFvintage ones are now in. Edited January 27, 2022 by ND240Z Dragonball240z, gilltech, C.A.R. and 3 others 4 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted January 23, 2022 Administrators Share Posted January 23, 2022 Nice, some good work here re: rust repairs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C.A.R. Posted January 23, 2022 Share Posted January 23, 2022 Bout time you posted ere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ND240Z Posted January 23, 2022 Author Share Posted January 23, 2022 (edited) 55 minutes ago, gav240z said: Nice, some good work here re: rust repairs. Thanks mate. 37 minutes ago, C.A.R. said: Bout time you posted ere. Yeah i thought i may aswell consolidate it all into one place. There's been a bit more done since the lower gutters - my iPhone doesn't feel like uploading photos so i'll update this space soon. Edited January 23, 2022 by ND240Z gilltech, Mike_F and gav240z 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240ZBUILTBYME Posted January 23, 2022 Share Posted January 23, 2022 Wow you’re very talented at rust repairs mate. Huge job but looks like you’re the right guy for the job! Looking forward to more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilltech Posted January 23, 2022 Share Posted January 23, 2022 Another one on the way to being saved. Nice work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ND240Z Posted January 24, 2022 Author Share Posted January 24, 2022 (edited) 18 hours ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said: Wow you’re very talented at rust repairs mate. Huge job but looks like you’re the right guy for the job! Looking forward to more Thank you mate. a few hours into it already! 7 hours ago, gilltech said: Another one on the way to being saved. Nice work! So glad it got to me before it was too late. Done a few rear end repairs - again completely rusted away, lots of stuff did need to be remade. Before shots: As you can see, tail inner beaver panel and surrounding areas are completely gone. Drivers side too was bad, so it was replaced. Next was the drivers side drip rail area, like the passenger side it too was rusty. So it needed repairs. Next up, firewall repair patch... New years eve shot. The front clip needs alot of work, the car will be going on a car-o-liner soon to make sure everything is square before being spot welded into place. Trying to retain as many OEM things as possible, which means a spot welder is used as much as possible to replicate the factory look. and a few NOS goodies i've acquired so far. I love New old stock stuff, so if you have anything please let me know. Edited January 24, 2022 by ND240Z 240ZBUILTBYME, Dragonball240z and Mike_F 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike_F Posted January 24, 2022 Share Posted January 24, 2022 Anyone else impressed at how clean the garage is? #Respect! ND240Z, gilltech, OdinZ and 1 other 1 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240ZBUILTBYME Posted January 24, 2022 Share Posted January 24, 2022 1 hour ago, Mike_F said: Anyone else impressed at how clean the garage is? #Respect! Yeah I was gonna say the same thing! ND240Z and Mike_F 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C.A.R. Posted January 24, 2022 Share Posted January 24, 2022 1 hour ago, Mike_F said: Anyone else impressed at how clean the garage is? #Respect! Well it's a new home, so......... gilltech, Mike_F, gav240z and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ND240Z Posted February 4, 2022 Author Share Posted February 4, 2022 (edited) Spent the last few nights disassembling all parts that would need to be sandblasted, primed and powdercoated in an OEM Matte black finish. Still missing one drivers side chair frame, my car had 2 passenger seats in it. If you have one please message me! Next up will be Zinc coating - got plenty of parts ready for coating. Looking for any suggestions on someone that can do it in the NSW area. PS: I'm never ever letting myself take out another one of those 50 year old suspension bushes ever again. Edited February 4, 2022 by ND240Z 240ZBUILTBYME and CBR Jeff 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240ZBUILTBYME Posted February 4, 2022 Share Posted February 4, 2022 Don’t let @C.A.R. Know you’re going to powder coat your suspension parts. He won’t speak to you ever again… CBR Jeff 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ND240Z Posted February 4, 2022 Author Share Posted February 4, 2022 49 minutes ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said: Don’t let @C.A.R. Know you’re going to powder coat your suspension parts. He won’t speak to you ever again… Is there any reason why not? I’ve seen it done on some pretty expensive builds, and have done it 3 times personally on a few S14/S15 builds and every part stayed perfect the entire time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240ZBUILTBYME Posted February 5, 2022 Share Posted February 5, 2022 I’ve seen similar, majority of the z builds I’ve seen, particularly in the states have used powder coating Lurch posted this in my build thread last week “No high end restoration shops I know, use powdercoating anywhere on their restorations. Powder coating is not durable. And if you get a chip - which is easy with powder coating - it's bare metal underneath, and rust starts very quickly buy moving UNDER the powder coating. Next thing you know, a chuck of powder coating comes off to expose a rusted suspension member underneath. 2k is far harder and more durable, and wont be as easily chipped.” ND240Z 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ND240Z Posted February 5, 2022 Author Share Posted February 5, 2022 (edited) 1 hour ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said: I’ve seen similar, majority of the z builds I’ve seen, particularly in the states have used powder coating Lurch posted this in my build thread last week “No high end restoration shops I know, use powdercoating anywhere on their restorations. Powder coating is not durable. And if you get a chip - which is easy with powder coating - it's bare metal underneath, and rust starts very quickly buy moving UNDER the powder coating. Next thing you know, a chuck of powder coating comes off to expose a rusted suspension member underneath. 2k is far harder and more durable, and wont be as easily chipped.” It's very interesting hearing a few different sides. - my shop local to me cleans all the parts in a big pool of acid like substance, then they media blast, then prime, then powdercoat. My current S15 has a powdercoated rear subframe and its pretty low (60mm~ from the rear subframe to ground). I've scrapped that subframe many, many times and it hasn't chipped away whatsoever - still looks as if it was done yesterday. Simply just a few scratches on it. But definitely good to hear other people's thoughts on it so thanks for all the inputs. Edited February 5, 2022 by ND240Z gav240z 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C.A.R. Posted February 5, 2022 Share Posted February 5, 2022 Your car - do what you want. ND240Z 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wags Posted February 6, 2022 Share Posted February 6, 2022 17 hours ago, C.A.R. said: Your car - do what you want. I would do what CAR recommends. At the end of the day…The guy does it for a living. He didn’t stumble upon the knowledge, he’s trialed and errored his way there. I’m not ashamed to admit that I have had some ‘different’ ideas along the way on my 240z ‘wags build’ but every time CAR puts me on the straight and narrow I am so glad he did. I hate to trust anyone in this modern world…but I trust that guy. OdinZ and ND240Z 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilltech Posted February 6, 2022 Share Posted February 6, 2022 There are some pretty tough industrial grade paint coating systems out there, if you can get hold of them. A mate of mine years ago, who worked in the marine coatings industry, when restoring his Mustang, stripped back all the suspension and steering components to bare steel then painted them in satin black 'ice breaker' paint. It contains carborundum or somesuch. Absolutely indestructible. Whack the product with a hammer and not even a bruise let alone a chip. As he ably demonstrated. But I digress. Personally, I'd confine powder coating systems to aluminium products. I'll always use a good quality wet paint coatings system on steel substrates for long term protection and performance. Put it this way - send parts off to be powder coated and quality control is largely out of your hands. Whereas select a robust wet paint coating system and you have a far better idea of what you should be getting. So I concur with C.A.R's recommendations. My 2c worth anyway. ND240Z 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ND240Z Posted February 6, 2022 Author Share Posted February 6, 2022 Well - i guess i'll give my paint shop a call then. I would like to be able to retain the Nissan printing on the strut's and with powdercoating - they would be buried underneath. I do only want to do this build once and done right so i definitely appreciate all the suggestions. Wags and OdinZ 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240ZBUILTBYME Posted February 6, 2022 Share Posted February 6, 2022 @C.A.R. I’m wondering if there is a particular product you use or anything as long as it’s 2k? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilltech Posted February 6, 2022 Share Posted February 6, 2022 Quote I would like to be able to retain the Nissan printing on the strut's You mean the stampings in the metal? Any paint or powder coating system will begin to obscure those if applied too thickly, so just make sure whoever does the repainting uses restraint. A good quality paint system shouldn't need to be applied heavily. As you infer, it's a nice finishing touch to maintain those details. Shouldn't necessarily need to be a 2 pack, there are good single pack systems too. It comes down to personal preference regarding cost, availability, convenience, time scale, expectations of longevity etc. Some suspension components will flex and the paint coating system will need to flex in tandem so you wouldn't want a coating that sets too rigid. ND240Z 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ND240Z Posted February 9, 2022 Author Share Posted February 9, 2022 Spent the last few nights making progress. Majority of parts organised and dropped off for Zinc replating @ Pioneer plating in Moorebank NSW The dash with be redone by the Dashboard Doctor down in VIC, but before that happens, the big metal frame inside needs to be replated in silver zinc first as that can't be done once they fix up the foam/vinyl. Also i don't think they recondition the inner frames there. Found another date stamp on the dash foam - 6,12,47. Translated that is 6/12/1972. Which is cool. The boot TOPY spare wheel was 11/72 and the seat recliner had 30/11/1972 on it. I love the little hidden details! Tore down the bumpers too to get them ready for re-chroming only to realise that the rear bumper i have is off a 260z 2+2. Such a shame! 240ZBUILTBYME 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240ZBUILTBYME Posted February 9, 2022 Share Posted February 9, 2022 Are you zinc coating your front and rear wheel hubs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C.A.R. Posted February 9, 2022 Share Posted February 9, 2022 I suggest you have the bonnet hinges re-pinned before you have them plated. I haven't found a set yet that wasn't worn and sloppy, and it makes it difficult to get the bonnet to sit nicely if the pins are worn... Paint the front & rear hub assembly's. Do not plate them. Also make sure you re-plate any of the high-tensile bolts (9) and load/structural bolts as you will have to get them hydrogen de-embrittled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ND240Z Posted February 9, 2022 Author Share Posted February 9, 2022 (edited) 10 hours ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said: Are you zinc coating your front and rear wheel hubs? I was planning too. Unless there is a reason why I shouldn't that i'm unaware of? 14 minutes ago, C.A.R. said: I suggest you have the bonnet hinges re-pinned before you have them plated. I haven't found a set yet that wasn't worn and sloppy, and it makes it difficult to get the bonnet to sit nicely if the pins are worn... Paint the front & rear hub assembly's. Do not plate them. Also make sure you re-plate any of the high-tensile bolts (9) and load/structural bolts as you will have to get them hydrogen de-embrittled. My Bonnet hinges seem to be the minority - they're extremely firm and have no slop in them whatsoever... Maybe this will change after they have all the paint layers removed off them! Is there a reason why you don't recommend zinc coat on the hub carriers? I was told that the mating faces should always be kept bare metal. Pioneer plating also received every single nut and bolt in 6 large labelled containers from my 240. I was totally expecting them to just throw all of it into one big bucket and plate them that way - which I was dreading. I took so much time making sure every fastener was labelled and stored correctly. But much to my surprise, they actually offered to separate each individual lot and put them back into their respective labelled spots for a little more $$$. Which i quickly said yes too, that will save alot of confusion down the track. re: twofortyz's gorgeous Z. Edited February 9, 2022 by ND240Z gilltech 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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