NickF Posted May 2, 2021 Share Posted May 2, 2021 The car has had a hit in the back so the rear valance needs to be replaced (thanks Locky) The rear chassis member is out of shape concave to flat on the pass side convex on the drivers I need to know roughly the clearance from the spare tyre well to the chassis rail I'm guessing about 25mm at the moment its zero rail hard up to wheel well Any ideas, photos greatly appreciated I have a very big slide hammer that I hope will work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilltech Posted May 2, 2021 Share Posted May 2, 2021 My 260 2-seat is on jack stands at present to replace perished exhaust hangers so I took a look as the back of my car is undamaged. Reaching up between fuel tank and valance, I can't quite fit my fingers between the rail and the wheel well at tightest point. So even if your rail is out of shape I doubt that it's as far bent inwards as you think. Hopefully someone here can provide you with a definitive measurement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickF Posted May 2, 2021 Author Share Posted May 2, 2021 Thanks so about 10mm? (assuming your referencing the old english measuring system rod ,pole, perch and finger) I don't have the expertise or the equipment to get it exact so I'll work to that unless a 240 is different Thanks again for taking the time Nick AndBir 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndBir Posted May 2, 2021 Share Posted May 2, 2021 (edited) Maybe PM @George as his 240 would show it nicely (just cannot see it in his video) : Edited May 2, 2021 by AndBir gilltech 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilltech Posted May 2, 2021 Share Posted May 2, 2021 Am old school but bi-lingual in metric and imperial. Yes, 10mm or maybe less. I could try using a thin bit of wood as a feeler gauge..(!!). the fuel tank is in the way so hard to access up in there... will look again tomorrow with my lead light. If your car has taken a nudge in the back then check out the boot floor for any ripples, and how much 'crush' where the taillight panel is pushed against the curve of the spare wheel well, may help you decide what side or where the impact happened, and work back from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickF Posted May 2, 2021 Author Share Posted May 2, 2021 The impact was to passenger side to mid car drivers side looks ok , a nice curve There is a slight crease about 20mm in on the floor going about half way and angled down by about 5mm Was thinking of making a template from the new valance, across the line of spot welds and working to that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickF Posted May 2, 2021 Author Share Posted May 2, 2021 Pity the video just misses Thanks for posting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C.A.R. Posted May 2, 2021 Share Posted May 2, 2021 You need to put it on a chassis bench to pull it straight, Nick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickF Posted May 3, 2021 Author Share Posted May 3, 2021 Locky I'm sure that would get the best result most of the local workshops not interested, either got rid of jigs or they are buried under piles of stuff. They said if car has to go on jig its a write off. Really only interested in replacing parts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C.A.R. Posted May 3, 2021 Share Posted May 3, 2021 You better book it in with me then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilltech Posted May 3, 2021 Share Posted May 3, 2021 I can just slip a piece of 7mm ply into the gap like a feeler gauge, at closest point, so allowing for paint and underseal, I'd say 8-9mm is all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickF Posted May 3, 2021 Author Share Posted May 3, 2021 Thanks 8mm might be doable the enormous slide hammer is moving about 1/2mm getting someone to do the work is looking like a good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240ZBUILTBYME Posted May 3, 2021 Share Posted May 3, 2021 Pity I didn’t see this post till now! I was with my car today and could have gotten this measurement for you! Damn. when are you planning to use your big hammer nick? I won’t see the car for two weeks unfortunately Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterAllen Posted May 3, 2021 Share Posted May 3, 2021 (edited) Just a cautionary note. You may find it hard to believe but that section can be prone to rust - I know, it's hard to believe with it being a 240Z. Ensure you use spreader plates if you are going to pull or push it into shape. Edited May 6, 2021 by PeterAllen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndBir Posted May 4, 2021 Share Posted May 4, 2021 4 hours ago, PeterAllen said: You may find it hard to believe but that section can be prone to rust Yep, just shows how far into the enclosed areas rust can penetrate. Looking at this video I will be looking to do further rust prevention spray treatment on the internal chassis areas : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cZAnhTLeqvE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickF Posted May 4, 2021 Author Share Posted May 4, 2021 Hi Peter The damage on yours looks similar to mine how did you go about correcting Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted May 4, 2021 Administrators Share Posted May 4, 2021 On 5/2/2021 at 11:59 PM, C.A.F. said: You need to put it on a chassis bench to pull it straight, Nick. My car HS30 00150 has had a light nudge in the butt and it's pushed this section against the spare tyre tub also. I haven't been able to progress things much for this reason. I need @C.A.F. help to pull it straight again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted May 4, 2021 Administrators Share Posted May 4, 2021 6 hours ago, AndBir said: Yep, just shows how far into the enclosed areas rust can penetrate When they get hit in the rear the seam sealer between that box section and the rear valance becomes separated, then add in the rear slam panel in the hatch is a rust trap, it's no wonder they rust in that spot.. That's how it went on my Gold car #150. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterAllen Posted May 4, 2021 Share Posted May 4, 2021 (edited) On 5/4/2021 at 2:20 PM, NickF said: The damage on yours looks similar to mine how did you go about correcting Like everywhere else, cut it out and replaced. I became quite a fan of 'Ferguson's Knock-Out'. Composition looked good, was easy to apply in channels, etc. and was weld through. Edited May 6, 2021 by PeterAllen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickF Posted May 6, 2021 Author Share Posted May 6, 2021 Managed to pull the rail out now have a tight 9mm clearance. Used pieces of 75mm x3mm box section with one side cut out a piece of chain welded to each piece and a Range Rover Chain o RRS clamped box section to Datsun pushed Datsun forward and slowly pulled out, used small movements as chassis rail pulled out floor moved out and up so almost flat. If someone could post a picture looking down from the slam panel to the valance (without rear panel trim) that would be really helpful AndBir, 240ZBUILTBYME and gilltech 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilltech Posted May 8, 2021 Share Posted May 8, 2021 Quote Looking at this video I will be looking to do further rust prevention spray treatment on the internal chassis areas : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cZAnhTLeqvE Jeez, surely that shell is way too far gone to go to all that trouble... every last section of metal is rust pitted. And is the guy just lining it all up again by eye? I don't see any reference profiles anywhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilltech Posted May 8, 2021 Share Posted May 8, 2021 Quote Used pieces of 75mm x3mm box section with one side cut out a piece of chain welded to each piece and a Range Rover So it's true what I've heard then that Range Rovers make for good anchors... Nice work NickF. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndBir Posted May 8, 2021 Share Posted May 8, 2021 36 minutes ago, gilltech said: Range Rovers make for good anchors... Only when their electrical system develop gremlins. gilltech 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickF Posted May 8, 2021 Author Share Posted May 8, 2021 Ironic really using a car that cost $100000 and is now worth $25000 (if very lucky) to repair a car that cost $2000 and could be worth $25000 gilltech 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilltech Posted May 8, 2021 Share Posted May 8, 2021 Could always be worse... https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/brendale/cars-vans-utes/datsun-260z-wreck-no-gearbox-has-carbs-1000/1273816746 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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