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Wanted : rear disc brake parts / kit


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I have some coilovers to fit at some stage and will probably get the bits together to run an r31 disc brake setup so if you have a rear disc brake setup to sell please let me know about it.. Doesn't have to be r31

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1 hour ago, C.A.F. said:

Road Z?
Stick with the drums.

I’ve read the same thing. 

Could drums handle the occasional track use in your opinion Locky? 

Though I’m far from having to make it, this is a decision I’ve been umming and ahhhing about. (Drums or discs in the rear) 

I’m considering doing the 77-78 drum conversion to the double cylinder set up. Apparently it actually self adjusts unlike the single cylinder set up. 

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Apparently it actually self adjusts unlike the single cylinder set up. 

The single set up does self adjust, via the handbrake. All works well IMO as long as it is all adjusted correctly, that none of the adjuster parts are damaged or missing, that an idiot PO hasn't dicked around with it, and the various surfaces that need lube have got lube and aren't sticking.

Both the factory manual and the Haynes manual spell out what is required.

Edited by gilltech
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1 hour ago, gilltech said:

The single set up does self adjust, via the handbrake. All works well IMO as long as it is all adjusted correctly, that none of the adjuster parts are damaged or missing, that an idiot PO hasn't dicked around with it, and the various surfaces that need lube have got lube and aren't sticking.

Both the factory manual and the Haynes manual spell out what is required.

@gilltech Yes single is designed to self adjust but more prone to failure based on what I’ve read. I have no personal experience nor have I owned a car with drums so I am only repeating what I have been told and read on other forums. 

double is supposed to be a better design, require less maintenance and less prone to failure. Is that incorrect? Has someone been selling me porky pies?

I don’t see why they would have bothered changing the design if the single functioned  equally as well. 

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3 hours ago, Gtv240z said:

Why not go disc? 

Based on my research it can mess with the F/R brake bias. But it can be solved with a brake bias adjuster.

Also drums can cope with spirited road driving as temps don’t get as high. On the race track heat cannot dissipate quickly enough, hence road Z can manage with drums. 

another issue is the park brake and modifications that might be required to make it work depending on what kit you go for. 

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double is supposed to be a better design, require less maintenance and less prone to failure

Mmm, somewhat debateable I think. Double means there are more parts to go wrong, leak etc.

Nothing personal, I just don't believe in rushing to modify stuff before the stock set up is properly installed using good quality parts, adjusted to optimum and assessed.

But your call for whatever suits your needs. :) 

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33 minutes ago, gilltech said:

Mmm, somewhat debateable I think. Double means there are more parts to go wrong, leak etc.

Nothing personal, I just don't believe in rushing to modify stuff before the stock set up is properly installed using good quality parts, adjusted to optimum and assessed.

But your call for whatever suits your needs. :) 

Nothing personal taken @gilltech! I agree with not rushing to modify.

I am but a young padawan as @C.A.F. says. I know next to nothing of the force compared to all you guys. So I appreciate any attempt on your part to teach me something or share information. 

my impression was that the single is floating (can shift in slot) and double is bolted to the backing plate so cannot move.

See the conversation that took place in my build thread on classiczcars. 

A6B57ED3-45D3-4FC2-B930-B450F066E29B.thumb.png.313f787ec856c9f0435698a222cd43d2.png
 

 

Edited by 240ZBUILTBYME
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I've always found the R31 rear calipers shitful to work with. I'm sure they're only the common disc conversion because they bolt and you have a handbrake, so still street legal.

I was quite fussy setting mine up, but still have the issue with handbrake cables running close to half shafts, bleed nipple not at top, so have to unbolt the caliper and rotate on disc to bleed.  A bit annoying.

For a road car with occasional track use, it's a bit of effort for no real gain and a handbrake set up that's not as great as the drums. 

If your drums are ok and you can adjust your brake shoes up if/when needed, then perhaps not a bad option to stay with drums..

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I used to promote rear disc conversions, but I've learnt a bit in the last few years...

If you use the R31 caliper and disc setup 'as is', you actually have LESS braking performance than the drums. COD goes way down...
Also the handbrake is more or less useless in the conversion.

If you really want rear discs and run 15in wheels, Les Collins has custom CNC steel adaptor brackets on the shelf - to run R31 calipers on larger NA Z31 rear rotors - 
and this setup clocks the caliper at 5deg rearward to make the caliper easy to bleed. Also included are remade handbrake cables to make everything work correctly. 
This setup actually works and IS an improvement over the drums and R31 discs.
I have the competed assembly for my Z - If I get time I'll take a photo...

 

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my impression was that the single is floating (can shift in slot) and double is bolted to the backing plate so cannot move.

Correct. Which is why lubrication of the base plate to allow the single cylinder, and brake shoes, to react and slide as required is so important. All detailed in the manuals.

But, look, if you've got a set of rear brakes off a '77/'78 car to hand then by all means use them, assuming you can recondition or renew the double cylinders. If you haven't, you may struggle to find some, as AFAIK there weren't many late 260Zs sold in Australia. Much easier for the enthusiasts in the USA with their much larger supply of late 280Zs and availability of parts.

Unless you're hell bent on having rear discs then IMHO the KISS principle is best. Just get the stock set-up of rear drum brakes and handbrake well renovated, sorted and balanced using only quality components and all should be fine.

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1 hour ago, gilltech said:

Correct. Which is why lubrication of the base plate to allow the single cylinder, and brake shoes, to react and slide as required is so important. All detailed in the manuals.

Yes and I suppose the fact you have to be checking and lubricating more regularly is what makes the single more maintenance. Where as double only requires the wheel cylinders to be healthy.

1 hour ago, gilltech said:

But, look, if you've got a set of rear brakes off a '77/'78 car to hand then by all means use them, assuming you can recondition or renew the double cylinders. If you haven't, you may struggle to find some, as AFAIK there weren't many late 260Zs sold in Australia. Much easier for the enthusiasts in the USA with their much larger supply of late 280Zs and availability of parts.

I don’t have a set lying around but my Z man has some which should be relatively inexpensive, all you need to source is the

-77-78 drum backing plate

-77-78 park brake adjuster mechanism/arms

- 77-78 rubber grommets for park brake adjuster 

The remaining gear is readily available and cheap from the US including wheel cylinders, shoes, hardware kits. Like you say due to the 280z.

This mod to the drums obviously does not increase braking performance. But makes them easier to live with. 

my theory was that IF  I decide to stick with drums (which I’m leaning towards) I have to replace/renew all my components anyway. So for the small extra outlay of getting the 77-78 back plates and brake adjuster, I figured it was worth upgrading to the better design. 

@Gtv240z I feel I have hijacked your thread and I will shutup now... ;)

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