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HS30-00211


C.A.R.

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9 hours ago, gav240z said:

What's worse is that all the Yolo hipster types that want to slot in big power engines into these cars when they have no idea if the integrity of the car structure is any good.

Please stop disrespecting me and my RB powered car. Well, when its running lol

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42 minutes ago, JDM-TOY said:

Its very disappointing to see this happen within our community. I hope the admin sees this and takes action against such discrimination 

Quiet you lot, or I'll make @C.A.F.the admin here too. (as well as the FB group)...

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  • 3 weeks later...

I need to back-track a bit...

The remaininig rust was repaired in the skirt: the cross member reinforcement 'pocket' and the front of the skirt had a new section made and welded into place. We then applied rust converter followed by KBS'ing the inside of the skirt and new chassis rail. The cross member gusset was blasted, repaired and prepped for reinstalling.

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The new LH rail was prepped and installed:

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EHN1hI4YL23mYELQWHzwtxsYZZIEaweKx_z-NWGP

imUO0icBJrO-9MS8jGSIyOPsMNZqGtt2WOewK76t
 

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The LH side got the same treatment and was given a new rail:

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(You'll have to excuse this strange photo)

We then turned our attention to the radiator support panel - which was not right at all...
When this thing had it major accident many moons ago, it had the RH front skirt & rail replaced - BADLY.
Whoever did the repair had some oxy welding skill, but obviously knew nothing of panel repair and fitup...
If you look closely at the lower radiator cross-member, you can see the join just to the side:

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The top of the radiator panel was also badly fitted up - the join was overlapped, twisted and bent down in the middle!
It was all going to have be repaired...

Edited by C.A.R.
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  • 1 month later...

The front lower crossmember needed to be repaired, so it was measured, media blasted, cut in half, a new centre section folded up and then welded into place. The rusty ends were also replaced.

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We also fabricated a replacement for rear of the lower radiator crossmemeber:

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I have to back track slightly here: Before the RH engine bay rail was welded into place we decided to correct the misalignment of the poorly installed RH skirt and rail.
The whole front end was never aligned correctly post accident and it missed my jig mounts by a good 12mm.
The required us to cut the top radiator support and pull the top of the RH strut tower OUT.
Paul gave me a hand with this:

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The bottom of the skirt was unpicked from the footwell and then was gently persuaded to fit the jig at the bottom.
This got the RH front skirt and rail back into position and allowed us to continue with the repairs to the front clip.

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The top of the radiator support was then repaired with new sections:

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Because I knew what was going to have to be done with the internal roof rails, we unpicked the roof skin.
We stripped the remaining filler off the skin, welded up some rust holes that appeared(!) then gave it a good flippering, fettling and farnarkling to make it as ripple free as we could.
It was then given a coat of rust converter on both sides, then carefully stored away until it was required...

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Around this time I also had the heater core and radiator refurbished:

Yuck!

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3-FyONpUTHmb0Vp4SCoYnM4Fx_DQXZUTmqtu_zNt

Edited by C.A.R.
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The bonnet was the original - although it had been stripped.
It was remarkably rust free, but it had the noticeable front droop along with the derigur dents and wrinkles.
Paul tackled it, panel beating and flippering it straight.
The nose what smacked upwards with a large block of wood and 40lbs sledge.

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Then it was given a coat of rust converter and put away until it was needed.

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I'm impressed with the bonnet repair, because I know how hard it is to get that front droop fixed after they had a smack.

I spent ages repairing the 1 off #150 and still wasn't 100% happy with it.

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Around this time the rear quarter panels were removed and the outer wheel tubs as both were beyond economical repair.

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New Tabco tubs were then adjusted for fitment, then tack welded into place:

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Next we made new drip rails in preparation for repairing the roof rails...

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Edited by C.A.R.
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  • 1 month later...

Next job on the list was the rusted out toe boards / firewall areas:

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You may also notice that we tried our hardest to to keep the factory panel dimples...
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
With the drip rails fabricated, our attention turned to the roof frame itself and the extensive amount of structural rust - a part of the rust repairs that was going to be the trickiest...

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Fortunately I procured a rear cut that had the complete roof frame plus some other panel sections we needed.
I deemed this quicker and cheaper than re-fabricating the frame sections from scratch...

So we added to the bracing by added some sections that picked up threaded holes in the roof frame, then carefully unpicked the roof frame, until we were able to fully remove it:

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At which point the replacement roof frame could be welded into position:

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Edited by C.A.R.
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