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240ZBUILTBYME - Project Sheena


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23 minutes ago, gav240z said:

Hmm looks like someone was a little rough handed with them, did you ask Les about it? Might be worth a call to see if that's just part of the manufacturing process or if someone was rough at them during the ceramic coating stage?

I’ve sent him an email asking about it. I mean I know this will never get seen but I feel like if you’re purchasing a new item it should be relatively blemish free. I’m certainly not demanding perfection.

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Posted (edited)

Well whichever party was responsible IMO the outcome is just not acceptable. Those are major defects.

PS: if I were you I wouldn't accept it, those are more than a minor surface defect or two. Send it back and demand a refund, or an undamaged replacement, either of which I expect you would surely be entitled to under Australian consumer law.

Edited by gilltech
PS added
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  • 3 weeks later...
On 6/9/2021 at 11:45 AM, gilltech said:

Well whichever party was responsible IMO the outcome is just not acceptable. Those are major defects.

PS: if I were you I wouldn't accept it, those are more than a minor surface defect or two. Send it back and demand a refund, or an undamaged replacement, either of which I expect you would surely be entitled to under Australian consumer law.

I emailed Les, he gave no explanation or apology, but he’s sending a new secondary section which had the bad dents, there are imperfections on the main headers but I think I can live with them. Still a slightly annoying experience. 

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Posted (edited)

I’ve been a bit slack with updates of late, more because it is demoralizing how slow progress is lol 

front section of the rotisserie finally complete and I can move onto the rear of the car, mounts should be much quicker to make on the rear

new mount design all welded up, added further support to the main L shaped section which will be taking the weight. 

45B1E3A5-B621-4F7B-8FD3-0FB744280DEE.jpegBD4A7262-3DA3-415C-B7F6-D7725651C0E7.jpeg
 

added supports to uprights

EBF16CEC-0E80-42EF-AD3C-672B46DD702F.jpeg5823CFD7-ACEA-46D4-BF72-115C0DA967FB.jpeg

should be well and truly strong enough 

and here is part 1 of the rotisserie build in video, measurements of all sections laid out in the video. 

Ryan

Edited by 240ZBUILTBYME
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After completing the front section I moved straight on building the rear mounts. As I was working out what sized tubing to use for the direct mount, I noticed the rear bumper mounts were not flat. There was a few small rust bubbles around the mounts and along the rear valance. So I though I would begin a investigatory expedition into their origin. 

UH OH! 

well it didn’t come out as polite as that... my exclamation rhymed with DUCK, except with PH on the front.... the bog monster had reared its ugly head...

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not knowing if this was from accident damage, which I didn’t think it was, as behind the valance looked undamaged. Or if it was bad rust repairs I decided to press on with my expedition 

BIG UH OH! Again not the phrase I used...

9BD96F90-E32E-4B01-AD80-4EC5E9360448.jpegF2E8A035-C7D9-4B2D-AECB-84E8882F893C.jpeg

At this point, I considered taking a Lurch parody video with lots of grunts and fingering of holes. Lol

The suspense to find out just how PH$#*€D my rear valance is was killing me. So I kept going....

CCEFB949-00D9-48B5-B128-2A0D89432151.jpeg01ADAD51-1B9A-4704-BA0A-D39D72D7DC37.jpeg
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At this point I felt I could not continue with the rotisserie build until this was repaired. The massive holes I feel would affect the structural integrity of the rear end. Plus I’ve kind of been dying to sink my teeth into some rust repairs. 

Ryan 

 

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25 minutes ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

At this point I felt I could not continue with the rotisserie build until this was repaired

Wise decision.

Given the blu-tack "patch" near the strut tower filling a large hole on the floor and now this, there must have been water sitting in the rear floor area for quite some time :-(

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On 6/30/2021 at 1:49 PM, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

At this point I felt I could not continue with the rotisserie build until this was repaired. The massive holes I feel would affect the structural integrity of the rear end. Plus I’ve kind of been dying to sink my teeth into some rust repairs. 

Ryan 

 

There's nothing worse than a crusty rear end!

Do you already have a rear valance?

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4 hours ago, Mike_F said:

There's nothing worse than a crusty rear end!

Do you already have a rear valance?

Nothing worse than a few crusty dags! 
 

Yep I bought one from Auto Panel Solutions 

4FACCDAA-32B1-4A57-8406-391A2E7EEE7C.jpeg.190221747345ca5b891e2c77dc2219f7.jpeg

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On 7/2/2021 at 5:46 PM, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

Nothing worse than a few crusty dags! 
 

Yep I bought one from Auto Panel Solutions 

 

Is that a spare by any chance?

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Posted (edited)
14 hours ago, Mike_F said:

Is that a spare by any chance?

Sorry mike I bought it with a guy over east to save on shipping from the UK. So he has his already. His panel beater was very happy with the quality and figment for the record. 

maybe put the feelers out in the community as someone is always chasing one, makes sense to share the shipping costs. For us it ended up being 500 Aud landed. 

Edited by 240ZBUILTBYME
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  • 2 weeks later...

So got a little bit done this week, was distracted by the company of @AndBir and @RestoZ. It’s amazing how 4 hours can disappear just talking about z’s!

Managed to remove the rear valance panel! Great Success!  0AC382A8-A9EF-483C-9124-4D6AB4E48228.thumb.jpeg.8fbb1cb7fef4ebf388849aed5b55d3bd.jpeg
 

Used a combination of methods. These are the first spot welds I’ve ever removed so wanted to try them all. Used the rotabroach cutter style, the specialty drill bit type and the finger file sander. 

This is what my experience was with each:

Rota broach/cutter type

AC4299D2-ABEC-41A2-925D-5C4333EE82F9.jpeg.0528ca2f4fff8859432ca724360185b2.jpeg
I used this specific set so not the el cheapo type off eBay. I found these difficult to use, they don’t work well on plug welds which I had a few of. they like to walk on uneven surfaces. But if your panel is flat and they are factory spot welds these do ok. You must use a center punch 

the specialty drill bit type 

CC5C54B0-62DB-430A-86C4-F7BF2CE4B4E6.jpeg.243279da85e4682397e8b9c7512149d4.jpeg

this worked really well and I preferred them to the cutter style. Cut quickly and don’t mind uneven surfaces, don’t walk on you either. best on factory spot welds, they didn’t do well on the plug welds due to the small diameter. Must use a center punch too

the finger file sander

7262CF09-D665-48E4-BC85-748FF4CD5FD0.jpeg.338c9526e95f7eba972b8b7efcacdc6f.jpeg
Bought this specific one from bunnings 60$, wanted a cheap one to try out to see if it would be worth the money buying a more expensive air one once I get my compressor. And it is great for grinding out spot welds! Catch is it will leave massive square holes in the top panel, but if you’re not reusing the top panel this is a great option. It’s very quick, I was using 40grit, easy to see when you have ground enough of the spot weld away, leaves the bottom panel in perfect condition. This one did the job but lacked a bit of power, occasionally stopped turning if you put too much pressure on but made up for it with its light weight. 

 

Had to remove the clips that hold the.... I’ve had a mental blank.... rear dress up panels that go around the tail lights. As I will be using the whole of the repair panel which will require a cut along the top edge where those clips sit. 

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As expected it’s rather rusty in the box section behind, some rust has made it all the way through. 

52808B1A-ED55-4FC2-BFA2-814B24D3346A.thumb.jpeg.294f8988245d25c970ae55130fb8e965.jpeg

comparison of stock valance vs Auto panel solutions repair panel. High quality product.

3BF98DC4-B547-4D82-8505-DF231BFF8C57.thumb.jpeg.31cb0f7da774b6075ef0c563972f9fa5.jpeg

RHS looks like it has a minor nudge. Some rudimentary measurements show it’s out by 3-4mm. Not too bad. I’m thinking a big hammer should convince it. 

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First mock up of the panel. Need to buy more vice grips for convincing it into position.

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next up I plan to:

- convince the panel into position then test fit the automobile rear bumper to make sure there are no dramas there

- mark and cut top edge where panel will end up 

- clean up the box section, carry out repairs on the rust holes 

- kbs rust blast then kbs rust seal the internal box section

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  • 2 weeks later...

Didn’t get a great deal of time this break, only managed a few precious hours with Sheena. I’ve lost a tonne of sleep lately, tossing and turning in bed scheming and stressing about how I’m going to do this job! Anyone else do that? I’m sure I’m not the only one...

I ground down all the proud spot welds and gave the front face and what I could reach a good wire wheeling. 

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I bolted the repair pane in, marked the cut line and made the finaL cut. All the while shitting myself...

cut was good 

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with more room for access I went to work cleaning the box section as best I could. Came up ok and revealed many new holes where rust had eaten through. 

3473DE16-B761-4D86-BE36-4CAF94E11DD7.thumb.jpeg.8fa4b9f752525c35f3699a4d4b0ca302.jpeg9A12B4D3-3FC1-4FA5-80F1-1C5C2886E606.thumb.jpeg.eb201fbd4dd88560a4d11947216fcaaa.jpegEF89FAF9-FA1D-4EB9-9662-AE0532929A45.thumb.jpeg.cb68ff4028339e0ae605ca81fb6ff2da.jpeg5BB5CD02-4B2B-42BA-966D-1426F02C6947.thumb.jpeg.61649b2760f469e04db7d6eb4d0076f6.jpegFB77D6B2-4138-4B2F-93EA-AEECFB562DB4.thumb.jpeg.a4121e507b55b4f9509fb3f1b95f304c.jpeg

Question. Can I just fill any small holes with the mig? Given I use a rust converter and ensure the welding surface is free of any rust? 

I was keen to get a coating on the box section but with the rust that needs repairing I figured I would save it for once those were done. 

I was thinking of trying a spot blaster to further tidy up the unreachable areas in the box section. Has anyone used something like these? I know they’re generally crap but  are they good enough to do some small areas? 
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next time I plan to:

- repair rusted through areas on the box section (I think I’ll be lucky to get through this as will be my first time welding in patch panels....wish me luck....) 

- hopefully get some kbs rustseal in there

 

 

 

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Also update on my bashed up headers. Les sent me another set of secondaries as they were the ones that were badly dented. 

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just be advised if you purchase headers from him that you will need to specify that you want them undinged. He does not treat these as a cosmetic part and he states that the dents happen during manufacturing and do not affect the function of the header. Make of that what you will...

I also got the laser level out and checked the level of the bumper bolts and surrounding structure. All looked good from a level perspective. 

58D607B2-145D-4C5D-A2C5-6FA4860DA777.thumb.jpeg.4e2acfc3b0aabdd16b94ed7b3b83f8e9.jpeg

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On 7/26/2021 at 10:43 PM, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

gave the front face and what I could reach a good wire wheeling. 

Looks much better and in lieu of using HCl acid to dissolve any remaining rust, liberal application(s) of rust converter should complete the prep for cutting out the badly rusted areas and welding in new patch panels.

On 7/26/2021 at 10:43 PM, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

Can I just fill any small holes with the mig?

I have seen videos of other 240z restos filling rust through holes by welding but I presume you would need to be sure you would not just enlarge the holes due to the metal being so thin.

I'm sure others can provide better advice.

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On 7/27/2021 at 12:43 AM, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

Question. Can I just fill any small holes with the mig? Given I use a rust converter and ensure the welding surface is free of any rust? 

I have . Put a piece of copper behind and weld away works pretty good not sure about welding to rust converter?

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59 minutes ago, AndBir said:

Looks much better and in lieu of using HCl acid to dissolve any remaining rust, liberal application(s) of rust converter should complete the prep for cutting out the badly rusted areas and welding in new patch panels.

I have seen videos of other 240z restos filling rust through holes by welding but I presume you would need to be sure you would not just enlarge the holes due to the metal being so thin.

I'm sure others can provide better advice.

 

8 minutes ago, NickF said:

I have . Put a piece of copper behind and weld away works pretty good not sure about welding to rust converter?

Yes, in my tafe course we used a heat sink (thick bit of metal behind the weld) to try and absorb the heat of the weld and prevent blow through. In my experience if the metal is thin enough, it will just blow a bigger hole and you'll chase your tail.. especially when using Oxy/Acetylene and a filler rod. If would often be better/quicker to just cut a section out and weld fresh metal in. By the time you mig up an area, sand/grind it's similar time invested.

I don't know about welding to rust converter, but once you've cleaned rust away (wire wheel or similar), then you can spray down some weld through primer.  (such as uPol Weld-through, zinc-rich primer).

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On 7/15/2021 at 4:17 PM, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

comparison of stock valance vs Auto panel solutions repair panel. High quality product.

Yes, I was very impressed with the work done by Auto Panel Solutions. I had ordered a similar section from a vendor in Canada and it was very thick steel and wouldn't curve the way I wanted without a lot of extra work. Spent weeks with my panel beater teachers to try and make it work and still wasn't happy with the result.

The Auto Panel Solutions section was done to OEM specification (exhaust cut out in particular was exactly the same as OEM).

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On 7/26/2021 at 10:43 PM, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

I was thinking of trying a spot blaster to further tidy up the unreachable areas in the box section.

Maybe a Needle Scaler would work for the hard to reach areas (where a wire wheel cannot get to)

Something like this https://www.totaltools.com.au/137658-tti-straight-grip-needle-scaler-st2558

A large one being used in one of our "favourite" resto channels *wink* https://youtu.be/UAzQfd9VPtg?t=146

Edit : On second thoughts, if you can find a good spot blaster (if there is such a thing), then that would probably do a better job.

Edited by AndBir
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Thanks for the feedback guys 

I think whatever converter I use I will wash off and weld on clean metal, don’t want to risk contamination in the weld. 

yes I’m going to invest in one of those magnetic clamps that holds a piece copper onto the panel. 

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I will give filling a try just to experience how it is, but I will be patching most of it as it’s badly pitted.

I thought of a needle scaler but I feel a spot blaster will be less harsh. I will try to find one and test it.

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2 hours ago, C.A.F. said:

Buy yourself one of these:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/162693902809?hash=item25e14ff1d9:g:WbcAAOSwcINfCKRi
And ask your local media blaster if you can have a couple of buckets of his old worn out garnet.

I have one and I couldn't work without it.

Thanks for the advice Lachy. I found and ordered one of these already. It’s only $40 delivered off eBay and there were a few positive reviews saying it’s good for small jobs which is all I’m doing. If it’s shit I’ll invest in the tank style one. 

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I have also ordered this off eBay for bending up some patch panels, hopefully it’s enough for what I will be doing. 

5C33CB2A-6C48-4CFA-8E0B-6EA773F31174.thumb.jpeg.69626107e2fd0dd1523de2553ce9cb00.jpeg

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On 7/31/2021 at 12:47 PM, AndBir said:

Maybe a Needle Scaler would work for the hard to reach areas (where a wire wheel cannot get to)

I recently used a needle scaler to de-rust and remove paint, worked great.

.

.

.

On my trailer......

I wouldn't use it on thin sheetmetal

Edited by 1600dave
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