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240ZBUILTBYME

240ZBUILTBYME - Project Sheena

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17 hours ago, CBR Jeff said:

Ouch. That’s quite a few projects. All achievable but will take a bit of time, perseverance and lots of patients.

Jeff
 

yeah sure is Jeff... I have the perseverance part but not so sure about the patience? I think Ill need to take a long break after I get the car into paint. 

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I’d suggest you have it media blasted and etch primed to see what is surface rust and what requires replacement.

The process will reveal the actual good, bad and ugly. You’ll then know exactly how to proceed and eliminate the guesswork.

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Posted (edited)
29 minutes ago, PeterAllen said:

I’d suggest you have it media blasted and etch primed to see what is surface rust and what requires replacement.

The process will reveal the actual good, bad and ugly. You’ll then know exactly how to proceed and eliminate the guesswork.

Thanks Peter, yep that’s what’s happening, as per my plan it’s going to the resto shop to be hand stripped on the large surface areas (roof, rear & rear quarters, bonnet, fenders, door skins etc) then media blasted everywhere else

Edited by 240ZBUILTBYME

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So last night I took the plunge and purchased a bunch of rust repair panels from the US of A. With the AUD to USD exchange at a 20 month high and our terrible GDP numbers due out today, I thought now was the time. 

So paid $1800 aud to KFvintagejdm for:

- outer rockers L&R

- floor pans and chassis rails plus front and rear/toe boards L&R

- front inner rocker reinforcements L&R

- seat mounts L&R

- rear slam panel

 

and ordered from MSA but not paid for:

(total cost was $1363 USD. But they have a weird system where they don’t let you pay up front? Waiting for a response from them, I have found their customer service to be poor)

- inner and outer rear wheel arches L&R

- lower front fender patches L&R

- rear valance panel

- front frame rails set 

A grand total of $2636 USD roughly $3742 AUD. For Shipping I have gotten estimates and hopefully will be around $800 USD or $1135 AUD TOTAL! Don’t know what the gst or duties will be....

Not cheap....

but if I complete the work myself it will save me the 30-40k for someone else to do it! Plus I will be learning some new skills which is always enjoyable, or at least that’s what I’m telling myself....

excited to see the quality of the KF stuff as many people speak highly of their panels. Will post total costs and some pics once received! 

 

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@240ZBUILTBYME For the MSA parts (in particular the rear valance panel) instead contact this guy https://www.facebook.com/Auto-Panel-Solutions-418351785395614/. He has a better reproduction parts but might not have everything you're looking for.

Also the KFvintagejdm rear slam panel might be a bit off as the two dimpled sections should be straight but one is at an angle.

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10 minutes ago, daretobedifferent said:

@240ZBUILTBYME For the MSA parts (in particular the rear valance panel) instead contact this guy https://www.facebook.com/Auto-Panel-Solutions-418351785395614/. He has a better reproduction parts but might not have everything you're looking for.

Also the KFvintagejdm rear slam panel might be a bit off as the two dimpled sections should be straight but one is at an angle.

 after I’ve ordered everything..... lol

thanks mate 

Ive heard the rear valance section from msa could be better as it lacks the compound curve from left to right. I’ll see if my uncle can work his magic (panel beater by trade) on it otherwise I’ll take it to a resto shop for a work over on the English wheel.

 

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You can still cancel the order from MSA if you haven't paid. Even if you've already paid for KFM, you can get a refund for a part back easily as long as they haven't shipped it yet.

Check this: https://www.jdmjunkies.ch/wordpress/2020-01-12/240z-rear-lower-valance-comparison/ (the main diff is the exhaust outlet between MSA and APS and the rear bumper holes are diff between APS and Original) 

NOS + Z432R shot of rear for comparison. 

Z432rearpanel1.jpg

Nissan-Fairlady-Z432R-1970-BHauction2020-TokyoTerrada-04.jpg

Edited by daretobedifferent

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4 minutes ago, daretobedifferent said:

You can still cancel the order from MSA if you haven't paid. 

Check this: https://www.jdmjunkies.ch/wordpress/2020-01-12/240z-rear-lower-valance-comparison/ 

this is true! nice article but have you seen a fitment comparison? Auto panel solutions one does look much better. but I will be paying more for shipping just this item though. 

I did know about auto panel solutions, they do make a lot of niche bits that nobody else does. hmmm decisions... I may or may not require their radiator support kit. might just cancel the rear valance from MSA and wait to see what other parts I might need from Auto panel solutions. Ive seen lots of people fit the tabco/MSA rear inner outer fenders with good results so happy to go with them. Haven't heard much about the Chassis rail kits though.

My car had a reasonably minor front collision at some point so I do also need some LHS and RHS front nose bits (the funny shaped outside part)...don't know what they're called....these....and auto panel solutions supplies them. 

If I do need more panels from auto panel solutions it would be worth getting the rear valance from them. 

 

image.thumb.png.9f7a700a6b737be62ce657b45f705f3f.png

 

 

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51 minutes ago, daretobedifferent said:

You can still cancel the order from MSA if you haven't paid. Even if you've already paid for KFM, you can get a refund for a part back easily as long as they haven't shipped it yet.

Check this: https://www.jdmjunkies.ch/wordpress/2020-01-12/240z-rear-lower-valance-comparison/ (the main diff is the exhaust outlet between MSA and APS and the rear bumper holes are diff between APS and Original) 

 

 

Thanks mate, I really do appreciate the advice. I have emailed MSA to cancel the rear valance section. At first I thought "ahhh bugger it, its ordered" but I do want this car to be as good as it can be within reason. and if Im having to buy any additional panels from auto panel solutions it makes sense. Im going to just keep the rear slam from KF, not too fussed about that panel as no one but me will see it and its not a concourse resto. 

Edited by 240ZBUILTBYME

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The upper fender rail section looks alright, you'll just need to grind down the weld and a bit of hammer work to straighten out that top edge near the weld. 

I don't think you'll need to find a new piece for that unless its rusted or beyond repair.

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2 hours ago, daretobedifferent said:

The upper fender rail section looks alright, you'll just need to grind down the weld and a bit of hammer work to straighten out that top edge near the weld. 

I don't think you'll need to find a new piece for that unless its rusted or beyond repair.

sorry thats not mine, just needed a pic of the part I was thinking of!

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small update!

shipment from KFvintageJDM is on its way! Found their customer service very good. My master plan did not work, was going to try and have KF and MSA both ship to my shipito address and send all as one shipment to save on shipping cost however MSA didn't have stock of half my items!!! Sooooo back to the drawing board...

KF shipment is coming direct from Bogota Colombia 

MSA shipment will leave once all stock is received in 2-4 weeks... MSA is so bad in responding to emails....

Also I purchased about $900 worth of steel to start building my chassis jig and rotisserie, due for delivery to dads shed on Monday!

Have I mentioned Ive never really welded??? :-\ Ok I lie, I welded once about a month ago....

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2 hours ago, AndBir said:

Hopefully not too much white powder on the parts to trigger Aus. customs interest ;D

Haha might be able to fit them in record time and have a ball doing it if it makes it past customs!  >:D

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Gee the poor old girl does have some rust! What condition is the panel at the bottom of the air plenum? On the inside of the rust in the fire wall? I’m guessing it’s not great as the rust would have started on that side. 
Best option for fixing the fire wall in my opinion would be to do something similar to what Locky did repairing  the front rail/inner guard rust on the “Factory fresh” project. Cutting and removing the rusted section of the fire wall out and then replacing it. This may also allow access to the bottom of the plenum box to also repair it. 
Keep your head up it’s not that bad. There are several project in the pages of this forum that have been recovered from worse condition that your car. 
 

Jeff

 

 

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6 hours ago, CBR Jeff said:

Gee the poor old girl does have some rust! What condition is the panel at the bottom of the air plenum? On the inside of the rust in the fire wall? I’m guessing it’s not great as the rust would have started on that side. 
Best option for fixing the fire wall in my opinion would be to do something similar to what Locky did repairing  the front rail/inner guard rust on the “Factory fresh” project. Cutting and removing the rusted section of the fire wall out and then replacing it. This may also allow access to the bottom of the plenum box to also repair it. 
Keep your head up it’s not that bad. There are several project in the pages of this forum that have been recovered from worse condition that your car. 
 

Jeff

Thanks for the words of the encouragement Jeff, dont worry not giving up just yet. As you say there are cars that have been in much worse shape, I know she's definitely worth saving. I am going to be doing a lot of the rust work that you did on your build, your build thread is awesome btw. very inspiring

by air plenum are you referring to the sort of bit under the cowl? where the wiper motor is? where the water drains off and goes out gutters through the A pillar section? Yes this area is bad, the seam sealer that runs along the join of that panel and the length of that firewall has perished, let moisture in and that whole join is compromised IMO. The double skin reinforcement area above the dash steering column mounts is toast also. I believe I will have to pull the whole top panel off above that whole section as theres no way to repair and rustproof the area properly otherwise.  most likely will get the resto shop to do this as its a bit above my pay grade, plus im getting them to do the A pillar rust and all that joins up together.

I have been going through CAFs Project factory fresh but havent come across the firewall part yet. will keep reading 

 

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Thumbs up.  Yes that's the place. There is no fire wall yet rather referring to how Locky has repaired the front rails. Using the same process may or may not work for the fire wall? If you get what I mean.

 

Jeff

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5 minutes ago, CBR Jeff said:

Thumbs up.  Yes that's the place. There is no fire wall yet rather referring to how Locky has repaired the front rails. Using the same process may or may not work for the fire wall? If you get what I mean.

 

Jeff

ahh yep I get you. Problem is all the little dimples and brackets on the firewall, probably easy for someone who knows what they're doing to recreate with a bead roller. yeah you might be right Jeff, as opposed to toying with the top of that section. see what the resto guy comes up with once we get to that stage

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On 8/17/2020 at 7:23 PM, AndBir said:

Before you do bin it, check what cylinder head is on the L20 as it my be one of the ones that are good for modified L6 engines.

L20 engines were also used in JDM Fairlady Z. (Mine has is a 72 with the original 2.0L L20 engine and original carbs (they are slightly smaller than those fitted to the 240z / L24 engines.) 

check around. 

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This is a great project, man. First impressions when you see the car before you get stuck in one thinks, well, this looks pretty solid, but once you get into it, there's a lot of work to be done. I'm watching with interest as I'm nearing the purchase of a project myself and keen to see how yours comes together. You've got some rellies in the family with essential skills, so that's gotta be a big plus as well. Good luck with it, and the videos are great quality and enjoyable to watch. - Peter

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