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240ZBUILTBYME - Project Georgia


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50 minutes ago, 1600dave said:

Likewise. I lost my mum in August, its just plain horrible. Hope you're holding up OK.

My condolences Dave, i don’t think anything can prepare you for the loss of your mum. Holding up ok for now, thanks for reaching out, hope you’re doing ok too

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Very sorry to hear of your loss Ryan…Mum’s forever hold a special place in our heart’s and something that helped me through the hard times (with both parents) was the belief that they live on in you and “in one sense” are never too far away and that goodness get’s passed onto your kid’s as well…

regards, Rod.

 

 

 

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Sorry to hear about your mum, Ryan. And that's a great initiative - I was watching some highlights (???) of this years Summernats and saw a winning ute that was built as a dedication to the guys father. You could see love and effort that went into it, and how much it meant to the guy. Projects like this can help to clear the mind, and to focus on the sole task of restoring your 240 to its former beauty.

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  • 3 weeks later...

So finally got back to the shed after a long hiatus. It’s very hot here in WA, 40’s as far as the eye can see…. And it’s about 20 degrees hotter in the shed so I have started coming early in the morning and leaving by midday. 

managed to cut all the 65mm tubing for the rear rotisserie and drill holes in preparation for castors and captive nuts to be welded. so all left to do next time is weld everything together. I still have to work out tying in the rear strut towers but will need to purchase some plate to make up the mounts. 

shot of how I will mount to the rear bumper mounts 

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also put together a first run of things to bring to the powder coaters, front subframe  and front/rear hub/strut housings are missing from the photo but they will go too.

pulled all the bushings and finished little bits of disassembly

those with a keen eye will notice I sourced a curved moustache bar and transverse link for the later diff position 

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wasn’t sure if there was anything that shouldn’t be powder coated? 

And is there places that powder coat should not go? I know threads are a no no but wasn’t sure about inside of bushing holes 

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1 hour ago, C.A.R. said:

I will never help you again if you powercoat the suspension parts.

Well this is an unexpected reaction indeed…

I feel like the powder coat vs paint on suspension parts is in the same category of age old arguments such as epoxy vs etch primer….

Are you able to eloborate on the reason Lachy? 

I spoke to a high end car restoration shop here in perth and he used powder coat due to efficiency and cost. He stated the cost for him to paint would be 2-3 times and be the same results 

Edited by 240ZBUILTBYME
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I’ve read arguments that if powder coat chips it’s more difficult to repair which is a question I posed to the restoration shop guy and he said he just touches up with paint. 

majority of the builds I’ve gone through have used powder coating which is a reason I decided to go with it. Now the majority are not always correct. But I’m interested to hear all opinions and reasons why I shouldn’t use powder coat! 

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I'm sure Lurch will chip in, but my only experience with powder coating was on a vintage bike frame. Thought I'd try powder coating on a BMW as I was sick of the acrylic lacquer I'd previousy used on bike restorations chipping and getting scratched over time. It came back with the coating so thick that it was difficult to get bolts and swinging arm bushes thru some of the the holes in the frame and it cracked when I tightened up things like engine mounts. I ended up stripping it and giving 2K a go (my first attempt at using 2K, it was still fairly new at the time). Much better.

I've never been tempted to try it again. Was 20-odd years ago, who knows, maybe powder coating has improved since then ?? Maybe I got someone who wasn't very good at it ?

Edited by 1600dave
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No high end restoration shops I know, use powdercoating anywhere on their restorations.

Powder coating is not durable.
And if you get a chip - which is easy with powder coating - it's bare metal underneath, and rust starts very quickly
buy moving UNDER the powder coating.
Next thing you know, a chuck of powder coating comes off to expose a rusted suspension member underneath.

2k is far harder and more durable, and wont be as easily chipped.

Edited by C.A.R.
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8 minutes ago, C.A.R. said:

No high end restoration shops I know, use powdercoating anywhere on their restorations.

Interesting. This guys doing some seriously valuable Aussie muscle cars here in perth. 

10 minutes ago, C.A.R. said:

2k is far harder and more durable, and wont be as easily chipped.

Well there goes that plan…. 

I was quite excited about getting this crossed off the list but looks like it’s back to the drawing board. I don’t want Lurch giving me the cold shoulder for eternity….

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 I haven't tried it on under body components like suspension etc.. but I reckon KYB Rust Seal via a paint gun would be pretty durable.

https://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/product/chassis-coater-kit/

I used it inside the rear hatch when I was repairing it, and I had to do ongoing panel work to the panel after and after beating it with a hammer quite a lot, the coating hardly stuck to the metal pretty well.

I painted it on, but you can spray it on. I just haven't tried it yet myself.

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9 hours ago, NickF said:

Use chassis black cheap easy and close to original easy to recoat

That is just a shitty 1k Acrylic that'll fade & break down over time.
And tell me: In all practicality, when would you ever remove and repaint your suspension arms?
Answer: Never.

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EK  Holden ute painted 1996 daily driver not garaged  Chassis Black

As for  "when would you ever remove and repaint your suspension arms?
Answer: Never."

Guess you are doing it on 211, Wags and Ryan certainly wants to do it!!!:)

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  • 2 months later...

Got the dashboard back from rare parts here in perth. Wow! What an amazing job they did on the dash, well the worth the cost. I’m stoked with the result.

now I need to clean up and check the gauges and remaining components as well as have Martin run his eye over the dash loom. 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 4/26/2022 at 3:34 PM, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

Now I need to clean up and check the gauges and remaining components as well as have Martin run his eye over the dash loom.

Un-tape it, clean it, inspect it, pop the plugs off, cut the terminals off and crimp on new terminals,
refit plugs then re-tape it.
This will guarantee it'll be fault free when you reinstall it.

Same goes for the main body looms.

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21 hours ago, C.A.R. said:

Un-tape it, clean it, inspect it, pop the plugs off, cut the terminals off and crimp on new terminals,
refit plugs then re-tape it.
This will guarantee it'll be fault free when you reinstall it.

Same goes for the main body looms.

Cheers @C.A.R. 

do you recommend learning to read and interpret a wiring diagram to help in the above process. I was going to buy the 240z loom kit from vintage connections for replacing all the terminals and broken plugs. 

Edited by 240ZBUILTBYME
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36 minutes ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

Cheers @C.A.R. 

do you recommend learning to read and interpret a wiring diagram to help in the above process. I was going to buy the 240z loom kit from vintage connections for replacing all the terminals and broken plugs. 

No, just take photos and do one plug at a time.

25 minutes ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

As it's a '71 it should have the early loom in it, in which case you should re-terminate and re-plug it.
 

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  • 3 weeks later...
1 hour ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

Very excited about this one…

so stumbled upon some rare as rocking horse shit NOS 240z door cards 

i couldn’t say no. 

I was going to do some fancy upholstery work on my current door cards but these are too cool. 

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How nice are NOS things! Did you manage to get a pair or just a drivers side? I have a NOS Passenger side, no idea how i'm gonna find a drivers side!

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