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Project Race-Z


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Being a race car why not just repair it. Grind those welds right back. Get the welder out and fill those other large holes in and then put a layer of fibreglass over it to give it a little bit more strength.

 

Quick fix and nothing lost because if you later don't like it and you come across a cheap wheelwell you can replace it then. The money and time saved can then go elsewhere on the car.

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I would repair that wheel well definitely. The bulk of it is good, just that strip that is not. Just cut out the rust strip and make a cardboard template of the patch panel you need. Get an off cut of .8mm steel from your local steel place (or cut a bit out of an old panel if you have any laying around). Trim it until it fits just nicely and weld it in. 

 

You can see me do it countless times in some of my videos, and it is really not that hard. Probably less headache than unpicking all the spot welds and trying to fit a new one. If a monkey like me can teach himself to do it anyone can.

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Curious what your technique is for chemical stripping on the underside? What kind of stripper are you using and are you just scraping it off with a paint scraper? That would be time consuming..

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I would repair that wheel well definitely. The bulk of it is good, just that strip that is not. Just cut out the rust strip and make a cardboard template of the patch panel you need. Get an off cut of .8mm steel from your local steel place (or cut a bit out of an old panel if you have any laying around). Trim it until it fits just nicely and weld it in. 

 

You can see me do it countless times in some of my videos, and it is really not that hard. Probably less headache than unpicking all the spot welds and trying to fit a new one. If a monkey like me can teach himself to do it anyone can.

 

I believe i have located a donor cut which is my preferred option, if that falls through i will buy a bigger hammer and do it the old fashion way :-)

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Curious what your technique is for chemical stripping on the underside? What kind of stripper are you using and are you just scraping it off with a paint scraper? That would be time consuming..

 

I used this http://www.autolac.com.au/consumable-products/Other-Paint-Preparation-Products/CSTRIP4.html

 

I applied one application and left it for 20 minutes, wiped off the loose stuff with paper towels and then washed with Turps and a scourer.

There were a couple of areas that i had to reapply but would say i got 90% of it off on the first application.

 

I did what you see in the photo and 3/4 of the interior done in a single day before running our of stripper.

 

Pretty happy with the result

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Curious what your technique is for chemical stripping on the underside? What kind of stripper are you using and are you just scraping it off with a paint scraper? That would be time consuming..

Best way I have found (which I think I stole from one of the Jeff's on here) is to use one of those renovator tools with a flat, flexible scraper blade on it. Peels it off beautifully in strips. I have tried a whole heap of different ways and that is the best yet.

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I used this http://www.autolac.com.au/consumable-products/Other-Paint-Preparation-Products/CSTRIP4.html

 

I applied one application and left it for 20 minutes, wiped off the loose stuff with paper towels and then washed with Turps and a scourer.

There were a couple of areas that i had to reapply but would say i got 90% of it off on the first application.

 

I did what you see in the photo and 3/4 of the interior done in a single day before running our of stripper.

 

Pretty happy with the result

Did you just use that on paint, or on the thick stone guard coating as well?

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Did you just use that on paint, or on the thick stone guard coating as well?

 

I used one of these https://www.ebay.com/itm/Florida-Pneumatic-Air-Gasket-Scraper-Kit-1-4-Inlet-FP-706K-/182790695454to remove the under-seal prior to paint stripping

 

Took a full day and was the worst job ever.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

about to embark on some rust repair and wondering what gauge sheet metal i should purchase, the all knowing web leads me to believe most body panels are stamped using 20 gauge.

 

Is this correct and does any one have any words of wisdom that should be consider prior to starting?

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Yes 1mm thick is probably the stuff to get. Although the rear valance section is quite a bit thinner than the rest I've found. So it depends on the sections you're working on.

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  • 2 months later...

Mine is costing $1400 given that the under-seal and sound-deadening had already been removed, $2800 if it had not

It is being treated with "paint grip 253" which, according to the broacher, is a "corrosion-resisting, paint-bonding coating on steel. The Paint Grip coating, when dry, protects the surface from fingerprints, rust, etc., during temporary indoor storage (usually for six months or more.)"

the MCM boys used the same process for the Mira floor conversion.

I started media blasting it myself but the soon realised it was going to be cheaper, easier, faster and a lot less messy to just get someone else to do it.

 

Edited by kamarchi
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  • 3 years later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Chassis Jig, I wish I had one.   I constructed a Wooden Rotisserie to work on my floor pan and rocker panels.   Did all the

restoration work in my home garage.  Even painted it there.   If interested, look up me on Hyridz.org.com under V8 Zforums

to Gen III and IV Chevy v8t tech board to Heavy Duty Frame Rails.   I am located up North of you guys in Honolulu, Hawaii.

                                                                                                                                 Toolman

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