kamarchi Posted April 25, 2018 Author Share Posted April 25, 2018 checked them out a couple of weeks ago, awesome idea but Seven Hills is like travelling to a different country from south Sydney. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregTas Posted April 25, 2018 Share Posted April 25, 2018 Being a race car why not just repair it. Grind those welds right back. Get the welder out and fill those other large holes in and then put a layer of fibreglass over it to give it a little bit more strength. Quick fix and nothing lost because if you later don't like it and you come across a cheap wheelwell you can replace it then. The money and time saved can then go elsewhere on the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted April 25, 2018 Administrators Share Posted April 25, 2018 Here ya go. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=1612503404&member_hash=7c982e0bdc2fcbd8c2c27bdf1cc436f59983e2800dd44aad89&tm=email&et=46&mt=7F1F0D31-C106-4483-BC9A-C7464ADF110F Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamarchi Posted April 25, 2018 Author Share Posted April 25, 2018 Good point, but if i can fix it now i would like to street legal track car, so it needs to pass roadworthy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamarchi Posted April 29, 2018 Author Share Posted April 29, 2018 (edited) Chemically stripped the underbody - pretty happy with the result, just slow going Edited April 29, 2018 by kamarchi gav240z 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HomeBuiltByJeff Posted April 30, 2018 Share Posted April 30, 2018 I would repair that wheel well definitely. The bulk of it is good, just that strip that is not. Just cut out the rust strip and make a cardboard template of the patch panel you need. Get an off cut of .8mm steel from your local steel place (or cut a bit out of an old panel if you have any laying around). Trim it until it fits just nicely and weld it in. You can see me do it countless times in some of my videos, and it is really not that hard. Probably less headache than unpicking all the spot welds and trying to fit a new one. If a monkey like me can teach himself to do it anyone can. RAP260 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted April 30, 2018 Administrators Share Posted April 30, 2018 Curious what your technique is for chemical stripping on the underside? What kind of stripper are you using and are you just scraping it off with a paint scraper? That would be time consuming.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamarchi Posted April 30, 2018 Author Share Posted April 30, 2018 I would repair that wheel well definitely. The bulk of it is good, just that strip that is not. Just cut out the rust strip and make a cardboard template of the patch panel you need. Get an off cut of .8mm steel from your local steel place (or cut a bit out of an old panel if you have any laying around). Trim it until it fits just nicely and weld it in. You can see me do it countless times in some of my videos, and it is really not that hard. Probably less headache than unpicking all the spot welds and trying to fit a new one. If a monkey like me can teach himself to do it anyone can. I believe i have located a donor cut which is my preferred option, if that falls through i will buy a bigger hammer and do it the old fashion way :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamarchi Posted April 30, 2018 Author Share Posted April 30, 2018 Curious what your technique is for chemical stripping on the underside? What kind of stripper are you using and are you just scraping it off with a paint scraper? That would be time consuming.. I used this http://www.autolac.com.au/consumable-products/Other-Paint-Preparation-Products/CSTRIP4.html I applied one application and left it for 20 minutes, wiped off the loose stuff with paper towels and then washed with Turps and a scourer. There were a couple of areas that i had to reapply but would say i got 90% of it off on the first application. I did what you see in the photo and 3/4 of the interior done in a single day before running our of stripper. Pretty happy with the result Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HomeBuiltByJeff Posted April 30, 2018 Share Posted April 30, 2018 Curious what your technique is for chemical stripping on the underside? What kind of stripper are you using and are you just scraping it off with a paint scraper? That would be time consuming.. Best way I have found (which I think I stole from one of the Jeff's on here) is to use one of those renovator tools with a flat, flexible scraper blade on it. Peels it off beautifully in strips. I have tried a whole heap of different ways and that is the best yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HomeBuiltByJeff Posted April 30, 2018 Share Posted April 30, 2018 I used this http://www.autolac.com.au/consumable-products/Other-Paint-Preparation-Products/CSTRIP4.html I applied one application and left it for 20 minutes, wiped off the loose stuff with paper towels and then washed with Turps and a scourer. There were a couple of areas that i had to reapply but would say i got 90% of it off on the first application. I did what you see in the photo and 3/4 of the interior done in a single day before running our of stripper. Pretty happy with the result Did you just use that on paint, or on the thick stone guard coating as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamarchi Posted April 30, 2018 Author Share Posted April 30, 2018 Did you just use that on paint, or on the thick stone guard coating as well? I used one of these https://www.ebay.com/itm/Florida-Pneumatic-Air-Gasket-Scraper-Kit-1-4-Inlet-FP-706K-/182790695454to remove the under-seal prior to paint stripping Took a full day and was the worst job ever. HomeBuiltByJeff 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamarchi Posted May 11, 2018 Author Share Posted May 11, 2018 note to self : next time dip the car! gav240z and RAP260 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted May 11, 2018 Administrators Share Posted May 11, 2018 note to self : next time dip the car! I'm thinking of doing this with the gold car... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamarchi Posted May 20, 2018 Author Share Posted May 20, 2018 about to embark on some rust repair and wondering what gauge sheet metal i should purchase, the all knowing web leads me to believe most body panels are stamped using 20 gauge. Is this correct and does any one have any words of wisdom that should be consider prior to starting? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted May 20, 2018 Administrators Share Posted May 20, 2018 Yes 1mm thick is probably the stuff to get. Although the rear valance section is quite a bit thinner than the rest I've found. So it depends on the sections you're working on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamarchi Posted August 3, 2018 Author Share Posted August 3, 2018 Off to RediStrip for a decent bath. In retrospect should have done this first up :-) HomeBuiltByJeff 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted August 3, 2018 Administrators Share Posted August 3, 2018 What does it cost? Are you getting it etch primed to protect the bare metal or zinc dipped? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamarchi Posted August 3, 2018 Author Share Posted August 3, 2018 (edited) Mine is costing $1400 given that the under-seal and sound-deadening had already been removed, $2800 if it had not It is being treated with "paint grip 253" which, according to the broacher, is a "corrosion-resisting, paint-bonding coating on steel. The Paint Grip coating, when dry, protects the surface from fingerprints, rust, etc., during temporary indoor storage (usually for six months or more.)" the MCM boys used the same process for the Mira floor conversion. I started media blasting it myself but the soon realised it was going to be cheaper, easier, faster and a lot less messy to just get someone else to do it. Edited August 4, 2018 by kamarchi RAP260 and HomeBuiltByJeff 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamarchi Posted August 15, 2021 Author Share Posted August 15, 2021 Finally get back to the Z, just finished building a chassis jig so the floors and sills can be cut out hmd, OdinZ, 77260Z and 3 others 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240ZBUILTBYME Posted August 16, 2021 Share Posted August 16, 2021 On 8/15/2021 at 9:27 PM, kamarchi said: Finally get back to the Z, just finished building a chassis jig so the floors and sills can be cut out Long time between drinks. Nice jig mate! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toolman Posted September 2, 2021 Share Posted September 2, 2021 Chassis Jig, I wish I had one. I constructed a Wooden Rotisserie to work on my floor pan and rocker panels. Did all the restoration work in my home garage. Even painted it there. If interested, look up me on Hyridz.org.com under V8 Zforums to Gen III and IV Chevy v8t tech board to Heavy Duty Frame Rails. I am located up North of you guys in Honolulu, Hawaii. Toolman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OdinZ Posted September 3, 2021 Share Posted September 3, 2021 260DET 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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