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HomeBuiltByJeff

Home Built Z 'full Video Build'

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Good work mate.  I love seeing the joy on your face.

 

I know that it doesn't take wind resistance into consideration but 148Hp at the wheels and 170km/h is nothing to sneeze at.  Well done.

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1. They make tappet noise at higher rpm. That's normal.

2. The windows not winding up and down right? Did you have 260z or 240z doors? I found on my 72 240z it had a 260z door passenger side and was modified to fit a 240z regulator but it's not right and hence the window is a pain to put up and down.

3. Cold start shouldn't be a problem, at least it isn't on my Mikuni's even without choke. A few squirts of the accelerator pumps and it seems to fire up fine.

4. Have fun.

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The I thought one was a 260 door, but I think I worked out it wasn't (can't remember exactly now), but the bailey channel is complete toast, and I know as soon as I changed it on my 911, it made a huge difference, so I at least hope that is the bulk of it ;)

I might have had a bit of a baffle in the exhaust just to make sure it was quiet enough for rego, that I may have only taken out today. So if that was the case, the tune may have been affected by that ;) 

 

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Yes bailey channel / rubbers will make a huge difference.

RE: OER carbs, no idea what they are like with cold starts or choke mechanisms? You said they didn't have a starter circuit?

But I found that my Solex/Mikuni 44s didn't even need the starter circuit hooked up. Just a pump or 2 of the accelerator and away she goes. I actually find it starts a lot easier than with the factory SU carbs which often have sticky chokes by now anyway.

Oh and re: tappet noise, they do make a lot of noise but remember it's an old engine. Also later P90A heads had hydraulic lifters which were a lot more quiet, but failed over time. Hence it's better to have noisy ones that work. :D

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The issue I find, is I give it a few pumps, but it coughs and misses on at least 2 cylinders and gets worse. If I then pull the plugs and give them a quick clean it is Ok, but it will still generally have a miss, so I have to hold some revs into it to get it to clear it's throat and then it's fine.

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1 hour ago, HomeBuiltByJeff said:

The issue I find, is I give it a few pumps, but it coughs and misses on at least 2 cylinders and gets worse. If I then pull the plugs and give them a quick clean it is Ok, but it will still generally have a miss, so I have to hold some revs into it to get it to clear it's throat and then it's fine.

I find the main thing is to make sure the bowls are all full, on mine that means perhaps 10 cycles on the ignition to reset the relay if it's been sitting for more than a few days. Putting an override on the relay for priming is a good idea (that I should steal).

Then two full pumps on the pedal should be enough for a cold start but it will need some throttle to idle on that cam while cold unless you have the idle set quite high.

Mine is still a pig to start when cold regardless but the above certainly helps.  But it's still a whole lot better than my road car on SU's which fouls the plugs and takes 5 mins driving to really clear.

Roger

 

 

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15 hours ago, HomeBuiltByJeff said:

so I at least hope that is the bulk of it

Cleaning and then adding white grease to the window winder roller guides/channels? should also help.

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Re the Bailey Channel, the Rare Spares replacement bailey channel does go the whole way round the window channel.

The "in door" channel had a felt / fiber type material (at least it was on my 260Z) :

image.png.ae0ff378bfe9434279403316d49ccc66.png

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did you put some rubber grease on the sliders and lubricate the winder mechanism? that will help

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4 hours ago, Linton said:

did you put some rubber grease on the sliders and lubricate the winder mechanism? that will help

I did use some white grease on the sliders and I spent a fair bit of time trying to adjust the alignment. The window is still not tracking straight, so I think it needs somefurther attention.

1 hour ago, CBR Jeff said:

 I just replaced the 3 on each regulator with the Bunnings option.

Jeff

Bunnings option? What option is that. Please tell :D 

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https://zclub.nz/viewtopic.php?p=20818&sid=5d62fecbc695791fdf2d1796f2e5ee19

The rollers are for sliding doors. There is a large selection of them in most bunnings. I used the RollTrak ones. The bolt is a 1/4 thread and from memory the rollers were 20mm or 25mm. They may have been # "4361"?

Jeff

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