Jump to content
HomeBuiltByJeff

Home Built Z 'full Video Build'

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I think this is the rough template I worked on for mine. It’s still using the existing stalk to switch low current and using this to energise the relays.  It’s still switching positive not negative but means you don’t need to modify the stalk.

Rather than cut into the loom near the lights I tapped into the wires at the major plugs under the dash where the front loom joins the dash loom.

https://goo.gl/images/6PzjTU

I’m sure there are other threads here with this info too, I seem to have lost the diagram and notes I used for mine sorry.

Roger

Edited by RLY240

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, JDM-TOY said:

@HomeBuiltByJeff if your having trouble with wiring other than the cluster, contact Justin from ProWire he will sort you out. Possibly feature him on the build, give him some publicity he might help you out. He does heaps of work around Sydney and im sure he would like to help and IMO he is the best. If you like I can PM you his number....

Good to know. At this stage it is just getting the cluster sorted. If I can sort that out, it will be all good.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, RLY240 said:

I think this is the rough template I worked on for mine. It’s still using the existing stalk to switch low current and using this to energise the relays.  It’s still switching positive not negative but means you don’t need to modify the stalk.

Rather than cut into the loom near the lights I tapped into the wires at the major plugs under the dash where the front loom joins the dash loom.

https://goo.gl/images/6PzjTU

I’m sure there are other threads here with this info too, I seem to have lost the diagram and notes I used for mine sorry.

Roger

I already have that end done in the engine bay. The issue is more with the rewiring of the cluster in the cabin to be switched negative. I will have a bit more of a play around with it tomorrow and see what I can work out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

At the risk of confusing or contradicting myself, I believe the wiring is in line with below.  I have 2 x 240z one later than the other and the later was already butchered with relays but the earlier car I modded as below.

The factory lights are wired with permanent power (via seperate LHS and RHS fuses) to the lights and then ground switched with full current at the stalk. Diagram attached, forgive the hand drawn nature.

So to switch to relays you basically remove the permanent power (R and RY) at the light connector and make this the ground point for the lights.

Then you can use the R power from the loom and the stalk switch earths to energise the relays with fresh fused power and earth from a better source (ie batt or alternator).

You can then intercept the RB and RW lines from the stalk and use these to send the switched relay power to the lights.

it’s messy but it works.

Your issue will be working out what the previous owner did to intercept the signal wires. Best of luck.

Roger.

7801CF93-E99F-41F8-934F-D1ACA1549250.png

C6376595-9F05-4A06-A9B9-F7F6ECBD2962.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Jeff,

When you fit your points distributor the rotor is not pointing at the correct number 1 position, it looks to be pointing at the actual number 4 position. I know you have your leads fitted accordingly but I suspect you fill be chasing your tail until you set the distributor drive up correctly. You will need to drop the oil pump and drop the distributor drive shaft down and reposition it to the correct position. See the attached pic from my Haynes manual.

I hope this helps.

Cheers Jeff

IMG_20190407_094336181.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, jeff43 said:

Hi Jeff,

When you fit your points distributor the rotor is not pointing at the correct number 1 position, it looks to be pointing at the actual number 4 position. I know you have your leads fitted accordingly but I suspect you fill be chasing your tail until you set the distributor drive up correctly. You will need to drop the oil pump and drop the distributor drive shaft down and reposition it to the correct position. See the attached pic from my Haynes manual.

I hope this helps.

Cheers Jeff

IMG_20190407_094336181.jpg

I did fit the dizzy drive to that pic, but I am thinking I need to double check it as I believe it could be 1 tooth out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Jeff,

 

I thought you did, but it just didn't look right when you trial fitted the points dizzy. So yeah you may just be one tooth out, it doesn't take much. It definitely sounds like a timing issue when the engine is running. Good luck with it, I'm sure you will sort it out soon

 

Cheers Jeff

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had a dizzy one (or more) tooth out on my engine.  I was able to verify timing by moving the leads around one location on the cap and retard the dizzy as far as it would go.  That got me near the mark and the engine behaved properly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 minutes ago, Neuby said:

I had a dizzy one (or more) tooth out on my engine.  I was able to verify timing by moving the leads around one location on the cap and retard the dizzy as far as it would go.  That got me near the mark and the engine behaved properly.

I tried the timing light on all of the different leads, and it is definitely in the correct order. I think the tooth of the drive is the issue.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

in my opinion one tooth out shouldn't make any difference, so long as the distributor can rotate it will compensate, mine ran worse than yours when I fitted the triples. I took it to a Weber carby expert he had it idling perfect within 30 min, with 17 deg static timing all the jets needed to be changed even though they were brand new and set up from Weber performance.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 minutes ago, gav240z said:

I definitely think you're a tooth out..it's a timing problem.

How much did the 123 ignition cost you in the end?

It was 450 Euro, so around $900, but from all accounts, if you are staying with a distributor, this is the best.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, HomeBuiltByJeff said:

I tried the timing light on all of the different leads, and it is definitely in the correct order. I think the tooth of the drive is the issue.

Sorry to clarify rotate the leads around one spot on the dizzy ie 60 degrees change and then retard in the brackets.  From memory this was 15-20 degrees static advance with one tooth out.  Similar to what Linton has suggest.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice job Jeff. The car is looking fantastic, a real credit to your perseverance and can do attitude. I trust you will enjoy the S30 driving experience for a long time to come.

 

Cheers Jeff

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...