benv Posted September 5, 2017 Author Share Posted September 5, 2017 Update: I have been quite busy, cleaned and reinstalled center tunnel fuel and brake lines. Stripped the main body to bare metal and uncovered the worst bondo surprises, Jeff CBR and I should have a competition for the most unexpected find underneath bondo. I suspect his bonnet may win though. I also moved the lca holes (+19,+6) in the front cross member to correct bump steer. Some general pics to follow soon. It is hard to keep these build threads interesting as restoring zeds seems to be a well defined science and most of us go through a similar process. Anyway I did rebuild my early proportioning/delay valve: The rebuild kit includes one o-ring and two seals. The hardest part is removing the tiny cir-clip in the chamber holding the spring and plunger in place. I used two small watchmalkers screw drivers. I used brake fluid for cleaning the parts and for lubrication. When reinserting the circlip one needs to make sure it is in the lower groove, not just below the bolt threads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cozza Posted September 5, 2017 Share Posted September 5, 2017 Nice info Benv. Just wondering where you got the kit from. Also, how did you find the condition of the seals etc upon removal. Where they hard and brittle, swollen or anything? Looks like it was pretty gummed up with sludge which I'm sure would have an effect on its performance. Thanks Mick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benv Posted September 5, 2017 Author Share Posted September 5, 2017 Thanks Mick Kit was $12 from theZstore. Surprisingly I didn't think the seals were that bad after 40 plus years, the new ones are more supple though. In my case I may not even use the valve as I plan to install Booster/master cylinder /calipers from an R33 which may mean a R33 proportioning valve as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d3c0y Posted September 5, 2017 Share Posted September 5, 2017 How did you decide on where to move the inner LCA pivot point to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benv Posted September 6, 2017 Author Share Posted September 6, 2017 Hi, there is an comprehensive thread on the topic here on this forum with Lurch and others contributing, they also discuss a secret but even better solution (lol). I will see if I can find it again. The best compromise solution seems to be the cross member mod which is also aligned with the experiences of the guys in the US. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benv Posted September 26, 2017 Author Share Posted September 26, 2017 (edited) Quick update My worst hidden bondo spots The right rear quarter seems to have been replaced early in the game, it had most of the 5 layers of paint on it. Not sure about the area above the left dogleg. There are many, many small but shallow dents in the body to fill, it is really thin. Last pic shows new front suspension ready to be installed with Technotoy coilovers. Not sure how to rotate the pics in the editor. Edited January 19, 2018 by benv Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CBR Jeff Posted September 26, 2017 Share Posted September 26, 2017 I rotated them myself by leaning sideways ;-) Unfortunately Ben what you are finding is quite typical of many old cars. Its never easy repairing man made damage. Rust repairs are just so much simpler. Front suspension looks nice. Jeff daretobedifferent 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benv Posted October 10, 2017 Author Share Posted October 10, 2017 Rebuild my steering rack, new bearing and oil seal. Need to work in a very clean space. The inner tie rod ends were in a good condition as well as the rack bushes. The WSM has good instructions with excellent tips on fitting temporary grease nipples for final lubrication. CBR Jeff 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benv Posted October 10, 2017 Author Share Posted October 10, 2017 Swaybar end link tip: Whiteline sells the cupped washers below which is perfect for the stock 240z swaybar rubbers and replaces those rusty ones with elongated holes. 260DET 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260z blues Posted October 15, 2017 Share Posted October 15, 2017 Awesome build Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benv Posted October 17, 2017 Author Share Posted October 17, 2017 (edited) Suspension Pressing Bearings Test fit in lounge On Car: All parts were epoxy primed, then base and clear 2K The quality of the Technotoy tuning struts were good, I just did not like the fact that they supply a heap of washers as spacers instead of turning some nice aluminum spacers. Edited January 18, 2018 by benv Ponyo240z 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benv Posted January 17, 2018 Author Share Posted January 17, 2018 (edited) . Edited January 17, 2018 by benv Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benv Posted January 17, 2018 Author Share Posted January 17, 2018 (edited) Painting progress Before Epoxy primer Ready for basecoat and clear After clearcoat Fitting KAmeari front spoiler, excellent fit! Now for stripping the doors, they have been repaired before, no serious rust but dents and high spots literally everywhere. Edited January 17, 2018 by benv Ponyo240z, hmd and AndBir 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benv Posted February 25, 2018 Author Share Posted February 25, 2018 Fixing my wiper motor. Although the motor looks in a good condition the brushes were stuck/sticky in the sliders and the motor did not run. After a disassembly and clean and with the correct wiring diagram I bench tested the motor and it started working. The motor has 3 brushes. The parking position of the motor was reset on the car by rotating and locking the dome on top of the little gearbox containing the position switch. A nice tip is to use tiny cable ties to replace the plastic pins in sealing the wiper motor black bag again. 260DET 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benv Posted February 25, 2018 Author Share Posted February 25, 2018 (edited) Wheels Arrived! Unfortunately no tires yet. (TE37V) Most of the painting is done, so assembly process is slowly progressing. Hatch window nos weatherstrip installed. Aligning latches and doors. My driver side latch had a lot of wear on the little rotating cam, so I bought a US passenger side one which obviously has seen a lot less work being used less frequently. lol Edited February 25, 2018 by benv Ponyo240z, 260DET and CBR Jeff 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benv Posted March 6, 2018 Author Share Posted March 6, 2018 More Weather strips. Finding NOS seals/ weather strips arestill possible but requires a a lot of effort. I bought most of mine individually on Yahoo auction . The oem seals really fit well. The only seals that I cannot find are the door to body seals where I will revert to the Kia Sportage solution. CBR Jeff and Ponyo240z 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d3c0y Posted March 6, 2018 Share Posted March 6, 2018 Aren't those seals the worst job on the car. I really hated doing this part. I had the Motorsport Auto seal kit and getting them to stick was really hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.