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Tight Bleeder Nipple


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I have to replace all of the flexible brake hoses on my project 1982 280zx, so i was hoping someone will share their best methods on undoing those really tight looking hoses and bleeder nipples, i have never had to do brake work on a car that has sat in a shed for 10 years and those fittings look pretty scary tight especially on the rear calipers........thanks

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I have a set of crows foot spanners, but i will go have a look at some flare nut spanners as they sound like the goods..........do they make stilsons that small?

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I found the OEM flare nuts to be made from something very soft. Using a flare nut spanner still rounded the nuts the first time I undid them (after 11 years off the road). I recommend vice grips if they are über tight.

After market flare nuts seem to be made from much harder material.

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If you have the time to soak them in wd40/CRC/Rostoff ect then definitely do that.
For real stubborn ones you'll need an assistant, Heat the nut with a torch then hold pressure against it to undo it with the flare nut spanner, you want to put enough force on it that its 'almost' about to round the ends.
Then get your assistant to give the nut a sharp whack on the top (next to the brake line) with a pin punch and hammer. Its usually the best way to do it without damaging the nut.
as mentioned before, make sure you put a spanner on BOTH sides, dont rely on the chassis keeping it captive.
Beyond that, mini stilsons or vice grips, but you'll likely be replacing the nuts and re-flaring the end of the pipes after that.
good luck, they are soft and easily damaged.

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I have a set of crows foot spanners, but i will go have a look at some flare nut spanners as they sound like the goods..........do they make stilsons that small?

Yes they do!

 

Dont use vise grips, if the nipple wont budge, the vise grips will ruin it.

Mini stilsons, with their two jaws, properly adjusted to fit the opposing flats, on the nipple, with greater force on handle, will simply squeeze the flats, and not rip them.

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  • 1 year later...

Another option if you have to replace the brake hoses and you find the nuts seized and heat / WD40 etc does not help (and assuming you can get access) you can use an angle grinder to cut off the brake hose fitting in a way that you do not damage the nut or the brake line flare.

You need to use the thinnest steel grinding/cutting disk you can find and then start your cut just behind the hex head of the brake line hose (shown in photo below). Work your way down and around the fitting carefully and you should be able to save the brake line nut and flare.

Img_6519.thumb.jpg.1b615c6469901b1aec1fbe560d30e2a7.jpg

Img_6520.thumb.jpg.f094380e9e75030a5f3fb23718eb0c05.jpg

Img_6521.thumb.jpg.61b915bd8c722c23b719d1d44710bb89.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

They make special vice grips that grip 3 sides of a hex head. they work on the hose fittings, don't tighten them to much they will  crush the fittings.

Use a 6 point socket on the bleeders and be careful thay are easy to brake.

Use lots of penetrating oil.1998162064_the-original-locking-wrenches-302.jpg.d54dfd632b5097220be5458a50cdfb86.jpg

Edited by 72240Z
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Thanks 72240z and Andbir for your suggestions, both are very helpful, I got the four bleeder nipples out by mixing in equal parts ATF and brake fluid, put it into a squirt bottle, put it in the freezer for a couple of hours to get it very cold, then carefully apply heat with a gas torch   ( I got from Bunnings $40) then while the nipple was still very hot, spray liberally with your oil mixture ( I did this twice) then locked on a pair of 6” vice grips and they all came out easy, the oil had gone down onto the threads during the expansion contraction process making the nipple easy to get out, I was mindful of not using too much heat and killing the caliber seals ... cheers cruza

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