Ak Build

[AK]

What Else - Fresh Chrome for the badges and rear tail light surrounds - Also Made a custom DATO badge - because thats what we call in Australia - Found some flexible ruberized sandpaper at bunnings which was really good for detail work and scuffing up the chrome sections that were to be painted black. Painted up the DATO badge so it Red on Top Blue on on bottom like the engine and the front Grill - bit of a theme for the DATO. Lots of detailed masking - FUN, I could not buy 260 badges anywhere new.

[AK]

What else – I got the door cards and rear seat and sun visors , rear seat passenger wall cards and new transmission tunnel cover done a John/James Gadenne Car and Boat Upholstery (Sunny Coast Area) great guys super helpful and accommodating.

I got the same texture and style or PU vinyl as the aftermarket seats with a similar pattern sewn into the door cards and rear seats so everything is matchy/ matchy looks factory. My original seats where pretty toast and wanted something with a bit more comfort and support got some Autotechnica Seats with a classic look and Australian Standards approved with tilt forward option, also added a air adjustable rear lumber support to the drivers seat.

The Carpets I bought a complete set from Stuart at Aus Classics down in the Dandy area of Melbourne before I moved up to QLD anyway this is bit of vent I guess the whole build could be described as a vent now I think of it? Anyway Stu promoted and said he could supply a complete carpet kit for car but when it came to fitting it a couple of years later, their was not tunnel cover at all? The front floor mats didn’t fit, the side skirts where not cut with right cut outs in them, the rear mats couldn’t fit at all, the rear lift back did fit about 90% correct – so almost a  complete waste of money really,could of done it better buying a roll of black carpet and doing it my self. Rang Stu said I was disappointed in the what he delivered, he said it was standard for Z – complete carpet kits to not come with the tunnel cover as its normally vinyl – mind you when you look at the kits out of the USA the come with the tunnel covers - he should probably should of specified that when selling a complete carpet kit for the car that it comes with no tunnel cover – I thought it  would have been getting a carpet one at least, anyway not going to supply one to me now, he said send down template for the rear mat shape and he would send up some new mats for the rear, I did that three months later no mats not returning calls or emails now – TOP BLOKE – Anyway you going to get the odd bad apple just disappointing that they wasted your time and money. Interior side skirts I did a carbon fibre skin on and the same for the recessed panel that fits into the inner surface of the lift back. When it came to fit the Sun visors back it the bracket that holds the end of the roads and also the socket for the rear vision mirror cracked in half - murphies law again! - so epoxied them back together in sandwich with new metal base plate and top plate the sandwich ensures increased strength as the whole thing is bolted and bonded together once fitted.  

Door Handles were showing their age somewhat and were deflated and shrunken a little, tried to source some new ones but could not find any apart from similar second hand items, so I got this super sticky rubber glue/filler bonds quickly and dries hard. I injected into the vinyl casing that makes the handle assembly and also used zip ties to pull back the internal metal plates to bring back the proper shape and improved fit of the handle  to the door – and it all worked well actually . They are not new but they look pretty good for a car 44year old car.

[CBR Jeff]

AK great read and excellent work.  

Jeff

Edited June 21, 2020 by CBR Jeff

[AK]

I brought a BRE Rear Spoiler and the front BRE SPOOK Air Dam from the states after several email checking spec and confirming they would fit my 260z 2+2 they arrived and the looked great.

But unfortunately, the Spook front air dam did not fit my Datsun as promised - but not one to surrender so easily as sending it back to the states for a credit would not be worthwhile because of the cost of freight.

After taking a lot of measurements and playing around with would be the optimal position I surmised that cutting the air dam in half and making a matching plate for the underneath center section and spreading the width by 100mm I should be able to get it to fit well.

First I made a mold of the underside with about 4 layers of fiber glass, this would be the center strengthening plate to join the two halves.  Once done I went to town cutting up the expensive BRE SPOOK Air Dam in half, once in two I did a test fit of the two halves while on the car, then I did a temporary  join of the two pieces with my center fiber glass section.  All worked pretty perfect actually, used a strong glue for the two halves and the actual bolting of the Air Dam to Valiance also keeps the two halves together as they bolt through the strengthening plate.  The 100mm wide surface gap I filled with a 4mm thick 100mm wide strip of black rubber which looked pretty good once fitted.

Now at this point you think I would of caught a break and the rear BRE spoiler would fit perfect? NO not the case, the over-hang sections of the spoiler that fit over the top of the rear fenders actually hit the body when you closed the lift back not be just a little but a lot – Not Made for Datsun 260z 2+2 as promised,  that’s  2 for 2 MR. BRE! Anyway! lets get on making the adjustments. I mounted the spoiler to the liftback securely via the bolt which were anchored into the structure of the spoiler, just had to make sure you drill the holes in the perfect location. I also used silicon underneath as I didn’t want water getting under the spoiler an causing problems. Then came the long arduous task of hand sanding the overhang sections to the right shape and height to suit my car this took a while – hmm just sent the bill to BRE right !!!! I needed to take of about 1cm on each side to get it right, it’s a nice custom match the car now but extra hours of work I could done without.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 1, 2020 by AK
DOUBLE UP

[AK]

The Louver to fit or not to fit.

Well I live in QLD and its Hot and I like the look when they are made out of metal sharp clean edges with clean statin surfaces, that original Lamborghini Countache that had the lovers on top of the guards and above the engine bay and I think a few of Lotus cars - pink panther style had the nice louvers as well this inspired me somewhat.

 

 I did consider making one out of the Carbon Fibre but it would be another 100s of hours project and when I did it a bit of costing quite expensive they I would have to build it here. Also had concerns how long it would last in the hot sun of QLD. I found one a Off the Shelf for Louver for sale through a USA parts on seller pre COVID who specialized in Datsun parts - to get one to fit a 2 + 2 was pretty lucky. Is this DATO now a COVID baby Hmmmm maybe? This louver is built in the Canada by Willpak Industries Inc. Astra Hammond Option Pro Automotive Accent Products. The quality of workmanship and materials is very good, and the way it mounts to the car is also pretty well thought out and so far has worked out well. Even the instructions it came with are good. It comes in two halves that slide and interlock into each other so it even transports in a semi compact way. I took a few photos of instillation process as I thought it may be of interest to other crazy Datsun people? People?

Pictures of it fitted – to inspire you possibly.

[AK]

At this point I was close to being done. With the Build that is, The WHEELS they are round and roll – Hmmm if you took a look at my Pinterest page I have literally hundreds of inspirational designs and constructions from around the globe I finally went with a Mag wheel I sourced LOCAL from PHAT WHEELS in Kunda Park in QLD it’s a remake of the classic Simmons GOLD Mesh wheels, made by a company called OS FORMULA and distributed by https://www.chrisnealewheels.com.au.

Unlike Simmons the are one piece forged construction so hopefully stronger compared to the 2 piece construction of Simmons or other custom wheels, the centre core is undrilled and thick where the wheel attaches to the center hub of the wheel lugs. This way they drill to your stud pattern and machine off the excess to get the perfect offset so you fill the guards perfect,  in a legal way that meets the AS standard and will also hopefully negate the tire rub if your TIRE GUY know what he is doing-  Angelo at PHAT TYRES is the guru he knows a lot more than most tyre shops. He carefully measured the car on the hoist front to back and calcaulated the perfect offset – PRICELESS.

THE End result for me was perfect PHAT Tyres and non-rubbing within the normal guards with a quality performance street tyres . I wanted Michelin Pilot Sports – if you have driven them you will understand – perfect predictable grip all conditions with progressive let-go and good wear - best tyre for spirited road use I think hands down. So the wheel selection for me was all about the grip and the tyre selection first because that’s what counts! The original kidney bean 15 inch were pretty cool actually made here in OZ actually had them polished to mirror shine but could not get the tyres I wanted for the road , some pretty crazy cut slick options around but might be dicey in the wet ? But I got them as a back up.  

Front Tyres ended up being a 225/ ZR 17   and the rear ended up being 235/ ZR 17 45 very happy with fitment and the performance,

After the wheel fitment - I bit the Bullet and got some Techno Toy Lower control arms as we couldn’t get the required set up really with the standard arms as far as camber was concerned and it just felt not as good as it should, being very low DOESN’T HELP, WOW Techno Toy units are a awesome bit of kit so beefy and all the adjustment you need, and easy to set. The steering is much more direct and now and more precise some of this due to correct camber no doubt but a marked improvement, no harsh feed back and just as quiet as the factory units – extremely impressed!

In the rear I run adjustable eccentric housing in the stock rear wishbone pivot it seems to work fine for now and delivers the camber I need for street use .

 

 

[AK]

Just a few Complete photos - Done Now.

GOING TO HAVE REST NOW!

 

[AK]

I had idea to add a graphic to the inside of the bonnet the Z is sort of begging for it really - I took a while to find a image that I liked the grove of,  i came pretty close to using a neon city-scape scene from Japan but in the end went with stylized strong Geshia Girl graphic matched the vibe of the car pretty well could always change it out down the line potentially but it was not exactly easy to fit.

[AK]

Hellow Fellow Zeder’s it’s been a while since I have posted, I have had a leaking oil pan from day one, since the full engine rebuild, cork gasket fitted.

Engine was rebuilt by Les Collins team, so no doubt it was done right - as well it could have been done.

Because I had a new Apex Engineered Cross member to fit  and oil pan gasket to be fixed, but I didn’t want to remove the engine.

I made up Engine Stand that bolts in four locations to the engine under the car while I have the car on the Quick Jack lift I have .

 Building it in two pieces makes it easier to get under the car the two locations,  adjustable feet to make sure that the height is right and Bolt sections cut to length to marry up the front stand to the back stand so they don’t walk around. I used the two bolt hole tabs at the back of the engine, and the alternator mount on the left and then made up plate that spans the 4 bolt holes of the AC mounts, which I welded on vertical plate with hole to be the bolt hole location.

It worked perfect the engine did not drop a 1mm.

If you have not seen a Quick Jack they are awesome,

I leave Quick Jack on the ground back the car over it just slide into the middle when not in use, spread it out to under  the chassis Rails when I want to use it , the chassis rails are only about 20cm above the ground so its that’s to low for most jacks or lifts, but the quick jack can handle it, I did have too cut down the rubber blocks a little that it comes with.

KEY Point I made up some steel reinforcing plates where it jacks from on chassis, highly recommend doing this, to protect the rails long-term.

Some times I have the car up on the Quick Jacks for weeks at a time, once you raise the car locking trailing arms drag into position when you bring the lift back down a little and the trailing arms lock into a rail ladder, a pivoting cam at the end of the trailing arm flips back to let the splayed  edge of the trailing arm hold-firm, so the lift is not holding on the hydraulic rams.

Great design I have used the Quick-Jack stands 100s of times.

 

KEY Point I made up some steel reinforcing plates where it jacks from on chassis, highly recommend doing this, to protect the rails long-term.

Sometimes I have the car up on the Quick Jacks for weeks at a time, once you raise the car locking trailing arms drag into position when you bring the lift back down a little and the trailing arms lock into a rail ladder, a pivoting cam at the end of the trailing arm flips back to let the splayed  edge of the trailing arm hold-firm, so the lift is not holding on the hydraulic rams.

Great design I have used the Quick-Jack stands 100s of times.

Anyway the idea was making a engine stand that holds the engine - so I can remove the Cross member and all the front suspension and the oil pan .

Why all this craziness you ask.

Well I got Apex engineered, Front Cross Member and Techno Toy steering Rack to fit as well and I also invested in a special Buna Nitrile Rubber matt that was only available from two locations that I could find in Australia, I used 4.5mm matt.

This matt is used for making custom gaskets quiet often remote locations, mining sites ect, its high temperature, and has great sealing properties, and is highly oil resistant.

I really could find anything to guide me to much in the process but once you have the Black Flexible Matt – Not Cheap, the rest is basic DYI really.

Use Oil Pan flipped to cut the outside template, I used a soft lead pencil to mark the rubber around the outside of oil pan and mark all the holes for bolting through . I used a new box cutter style knife to go around the outside, I used a spare Oil Pan Cork gasket to mark the inside width for the gasket, I made up a punch out of the outer metal casing of a Dyna Bolt as it was the right diameter – I sharpened the outer edge buy mounting the casing to a cordless drill chuck a combination of metal file and sand paper to put a 45 degree angled cutting surface . Leving it in the drill on hammer mode with the spinning function as will carefully lined up all the holes and cut out the holes, I cut through pushing firmly vertically down, while having a plastic thick sheet of nylon plastic underneath so it helped keep the tip of cutting punch sharp, worked perfect

My Oil pan it pretty beat up few knocks dents and repairs from the previous years before my stewardship – it shows some rough panel beating  and even some welding  when closely inspected so the mating surface on the oil pan not perfect and it would say a tiny bit warped at the rear end of the pan. So leaking from the cork might have been more of problem for mine than others.

But my assumption that because of the raised central ridge design that that the Datsun Oil pan has on the mating surface this pushes into deeply into the cork if you apply to much pressure they will tend to leak ,if you don’t have enough pressure they also leak, would be much better if the mating surfaces were dead flat and thicker metal in my opinion and that would allow the use of gasket maker silicon to also work well in my opinion.

But the stock pan is not that like and I don’t think you would get gasket maker silicon to work well either as it will just squash out left and right which means you would end up with silicon inside the oil pan which could clog up the engine.

That’s why I tried the Buna Nitrile Rubber matt and guess what – it worked, the pan sits lower by about 4mm which adds about a half to 1 litre of oil to the capacity of the engine as well.

No leaking so far.

 

 

So what about the Apex engineered Cross Member and Techno Toy Steering Rack you ask? Well I went for the additional strengthening braces as well even know I already had custom fabricated my own brace previously that span the bolted ends of the Tension Control Rods, The braces that are optional with the Apex Engineered Cross Brace go back and bolt to the side of the steel pockets that house the end of the Tension Rods into the chassis rails.

The mounting of the cross member not really hard to do, the mounting of the braces back to the side pockets was a really hard job to do,  having the engine in place still made it harder no doubt but it was still OK with accessibility as you need drill three holes into the pockets, the holes are drilled to match the end plates of the braces, it’s hard to get the perfect alignment, but the other thing every chassis is bit different because of inconsistency in production or what your car might have been through in its lifetime so far,  you may have to space-out the end of the brace on one side vs the other, which I had to do in my case I had to make up a 3 alloy spacer plates on passenger side brace, which was additional complication but not to hard to do just time consuming.

It is pretty impressive once fitted not doubt considerably stronger and then you have about 5 positions to play with in terms of the lower control arm pivot point height positions, I used the second height pivot point in the end after the third position up made the car drive too erratic . I run the evolved Techno Toy steering knuckles as will with a spacer on the bottom of the struts so my Hight chosen for LCA pivot may be a lot different to some one with a stock shock set up. The MCA shocks were rebuilt after 5 years of use just weekend usage, the Right Hand Drive Techno Toy Tuning Steering rack also fitted tried it with the two bump steering plates fitted when  I was trying the 3^rd pivot location up, went back to one bump steering plate, when using the second potion for the LCA. The rack is said to have a ratio closer 280zx I think Techno Toy was saying which is faster ration than the 240/260z – But feel pretty perfect through the twisty’s, F1 Like minimal steering input needed, almost feels like a motorbike you look left around the corner and the cars already going that way - intuitive you could say.

It was bit of coin and lot of time to fit but the combination of this whole new front end with techno toy gear, the MSA shocks, the new steering rack, the additional chassis bracing is pretty impressive, the handling way better than before, very commutative and firm, holds a line tenacious, with the previous set up doing rapid consecutive sharp terns like you would do to warm up tyres the car would just feel big and slow now sharp and reactive with great control - Its like 100% better in this circumstance .

Every car is different and a drivers perspective on Suspension set up and feel is also quiet subjective – for me this was great improvement.