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Andrew_L26

Definitely Purple 260z

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Media blasting should cost between $1500 to $2000 (incl. panels).

 

Get it primed in PPG Epoxy Urethane - regular primer isn't durable long term especially if you intend to drive it.

http://platinumpaints.com.au/car-paint/paints/2k-system/ppg-blue-black-d-g-3-5lt-detail

I've decided against going for a media blasting due to the cost, being a student I can't justify the cost!

 

I've got these poly strip discs from ebay, they were about 25$ for 5 and they work a treat. I would advise to use extra ppe when using them as I don't know how much I'd trust these ebay specials spinning at that sort of speed (Haven't had any issues yet but you never know)

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5-Pcs-100x16mm-Poly-Strip-Disc-Wheel-Paint-Rust-Removal-Clean-Grinder-Purple-/371802705138?hash=item56912b0cf2:g:Kh8AAOSw44BYc24z

 

ALDI had a tap and die set for 29$ thought i'd give it a go given the great value of their other tools (my 60$ ALDI socket set is still perfect) used it a few times to cut new threads as well as clean rusty ones, works a treat!

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Anyway, dropped the front crossmember, stripped the other wheel well, got the wiring done for my thermofans (turns on with temp switch I got from ebay as well as when the A/C is switched on) and my headlight relays. Also tided up my frame rails.

 

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I also redid one of my first repairs, I remember coming home from the 2015 AusZ meet all too ready with my Supercheap auto gasless mig and made a bit of a mess of it. Cut it all out and did it properly.

 

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Ran out of primer!

 

Also made myself a welding/tool cart. Not having a garage to work in makes carting everything around a pain, having a gravel driveway causes for something relatively heavy duty. Just a simple garden cart with a few modifications.

 

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Front suspension has been rebuilt with new SuperPro bushings as well as new Roadsafe ball joints and KYB shocks

The old ball joints have so much play it isn't even funny...

Also tidied up the motor and both my carbie N47 intake and my new P77 L20ET intake (Which I port matched and did an EGR delete on. Also shaved it down and neatened up the 65mm throttle body (Unknown what it's from)

Yes I'm aware that I painted my brake rotors, the pads I have on now are going to be replaced anyway so I'm just going to use them to remove the excess high temp paint before swapping them out.

Lots of turbo stuff too! Waiting for my 720cc Denso injectors to arrive (Overkill I know but running E85 I wanted at least 550cc and I got the Denso injectors for a good price.

Plenty of KBS rust seal everywhere, I decided to do the front of the radiator support in KYB as it will be susceptible to stone chips etc. 

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Pretty well all the rust has been removed in the engine bay so it's almost ready to paint. Just have to get a new inner scuttle panel and weld it in!

I just have to swap the oil pick up over on the motor as well as make a custom fuel rail and the motor will be done!

Edited by Andrew_L26

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Lots of work, lots of photos and lots of black there Andrew.

Good update.

 

Jeff.

Yep certainly is, Black and chrome is going to be the colour scheme in the engine bay, plus blue of the body colour. But that is yet to be revieled.

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It's been a little while since my last update but things are moving forward!

Engine bay is finally getting there with seamsealer and primer, inner cowl panel has been replaced, L/H rear 1/4 work is getting done (including dogleg and sill area)  in which a few mediocore repairs were discovered.

Fuel tank has been taken out, cleaned and stripped. I have been experimenting with the modification of strut mounts to lower the car (old racing trick so I've heard) I'll even it all out when I glue it all together with stikaflex.

 

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Think the dogleg area looks somewhat ok? Well I thought "I'm not spending 4k to have someone spray over a possibly bodged repair! so I investigated and found out it wasn't as bad as I thought!  However , this z did not escape the obligatory dogleg/sill rust!

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Had an interesting idea of having a polished/unpainted (clearcoated) chassis number with a clean oval around it. I will have to talk to my painter about clearcoating over polished metal. 

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I've modified my Kaizen Garage wiring loom so that the ECU will be able to read the oil temp, oil pressure and a signal from a knock sensor as well as extending/ trimming wires to allow the wiring to be tucked and routed neatly. The ECU I am using is the Adaptronic e420d

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I made a start on my custom copper fuel rail for my 720cc Denso injectors Part No: 195500-0830

As I'm going to be running straight E85 (and switching to flex fuel when I get the chance) I chose copper as it is unaffected by ethanol. The Lead based solder will react with the ethanol but on a very small scale and this does not concern me. I've chosen a ProFlow 300lph fuel pump, it is a Bosch 044 based design with some modifications to support E85 properly as well as pump a little more fuel. Also got a 100 Micron pre-filter and a 30 micron post filter, I plan to have a 10 micron filter just before the injectors (or is this overkill?) All of the supporting modifications to the car should support up to 350kw on E85 (other than the stock FPR which I will change in the future) despite me only aiming for 230-250kw to begin with.

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The intercooler piping shown on the motor is only temporary to keep the dust, dirt and water out of the motor/turbo.

 

Also received my intercooler which is sized as following:

550x300x76MM CORE

740 x300x76MM OVERALL LENGTH

2.5" inlet/outlet

This is the absolute perfect size for the s30 as it allows matches the stock A/C condenser very closely preventing turbulence between the intercooler/ac condenser/radiator hurting the performance of all systems. The inlet/outlet can be easily directed through the two fresh air holes by using two 2.5" silicone 90 degree couplers, The side going into the intercooler needs to be trimmed so they will fit. I found it a little challenging to find an intercooler that would match the radiator/condenser as well as allow the inlet/outlets to pass through the fresh air ducts without any modifications to the radiator support or the car/ac condenser/radiator in any way! As this is important for an engineering certificate. The only modification I had to make to the car was to bend the supporting tab for the a/c condenser pipe about 45 degrees to prevent it from rubbing on the intercooler end tanks. Custom brackets were made out of aluminum U stock however I will probably CNC billet mounts at uni as I have found myself in the Formula SAE team (allowing me to learn stacks about the engineering involved in suspension, composites etc.) but also allowing me to have access to equipment that is worth more than anything I will ever be able to afford on which I will hopefully be able to use for a few personal things (as long as I provide materials etc.) I'm really looking forward to learning about suspension design (and probably why cutting up suspension mounts is a terrible way to get the #hellafush look haha)

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My main concern now is my transmission, the current 280zx 5 speed I have is in need of a rebuild however even if it is rebuilt I'm pretty sure it will nuke it's self at 230kw. I'm tossing up between a VL gearbox (71C) and the far more expensive but stronger Z32 gearbox option. 

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I've decided what I'm doing with this build (until I change my mind anyway) and that is to make a high powered zed with all the nice things such as A/C and a good sound-system, yes this won't be as fast, or handle as well as a lightweight build but it should be a beautiful car to not only look at but also drive!

 

Managed to get noticed by Cigweld and they sent out some merch!

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Going to get the engine back in and sort out intercooler piping, get the wiring routed correctly and any other things before the car is painted as I'd rather scratch primer than the actual paint!

 

 

Special thanks to Scoota for providing me with some affordable rust repair sections and misc parts, Gareth for the rear sump pickup, sump and various intake parts, Simestime for the oil pickup, Cigweld/ESAB for the awesome merch, Proflow for helping me select the correct fuel system parts and of course Stephen (SGR65) for being an absolute legend after there were a few issues with the turbo kit!

 

Moving forward!!

 

Andrew

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Hooly dolly Andrew. That is a post and a half.

Might not read any of my book tonight!!!

 

Jeff.

Certainly took me awhile haha

Hope you enjoy!

 

Andrew

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C'mon man, how about some pics eh lol.  Just be careful when cutting down the strut mounts that sufficient flex is still available for the struts, they need to be able to pivot a little bit without much resistance.

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C'mon man, how about some pics eh lol.  Just be careful when cutting down the strut mounts that sufficient flex is still available for the struts, they need to be able to pivot a little bit without much resistance.

Haha yeah, I take photos of nearly everything I do!!. I have cut the maximum suggested which ended up being around 20mm. Once I mould it all back together with stikaflex as well as the leftover rubber it should hopefully still have a fair bit of flex available!

 

Andrew

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It's been awhile since I have updated this post but here is the latest!

 

 

 

I have continued work on the passenger dogleg rust repairs, really happy with how it's turned out so far! I'm going to leave it unfinished for a while so I will be able to do some rust prevention once I finally get the supplies. 

 

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Also got stuck into the rear hatch slam area and tail light surrounds. The slam area was a pretty easy repair but the only thing left to complete is the upper panel. I should be able to repair the one that I removed as it is not too badly damaged.

 

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Managed to source some good condition cuts from another 2+2 so I decided it would be best to cut the mess out around the tail light area. After being "repaired" quite a few times in the past I don't think it was feasible to do anything else.

 

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The fuel filler area was a funny one. Given the quality of repairs in other sections of the car and the view from behind I made the choice to make up a replacement section before even removing the filler. This would have worked great however I have sourced a cut from Scoota which will make this repair a breeze once it arrives! The amount of body filler was once again incredible!

 

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Got my copper fuel rail/wiring sleeve finished and mounted. I might end up replacing this with a palnet fuel rail in the future but I will see how this one goes first!

 

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Found some rust underneath the lead filler in the top of the passenger 1/4, wasn't expecting this so it was a bit of a pain but I will patch it up!

 

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Got my L28ET running which was a real motivator to hear the turbo spool!

 

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Began work on my 71C gearbox conversion

 

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Finished off the bodywork in the engine bay and finally got it primed in a quality 2 Pac Primer! 

 

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Got my front crossmember in as well as the rest of the front end.

 

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Motor is mounted!

 

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Using a modified Subaru GC8 Impreza fuse block for all the relays and fuses related to the turbo kit as well as the upgraded headlight relays.

 

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Intercooler piping coming along

 

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Got the engine running in the car with all the wiring functioning

 

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Started work on the 3" exhaust

 

3" offset Magnaflow muffler and a 200cpi magnaflow catalytic converter (save the planet!)

Custom twin stacked ANSA styled tips with duel 2" outlets as the last thing I want on my z is a huge fart cannon style outlet!

 

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Full stainless 3" exhaust

 

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Also managed to score a genuine working 260z radio!

 

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I've just picked up Liam's 1979 280zx hard top which I will also be working on. The link to that build thread is: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/11913-280zx-project-bringing-a-beast-back-from-the-dead/?hl=beast
 
If anyone wants to get updates as I work on the car I post all of my builds (Including a KE30 Corolla) they can follow my Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/andrew_langford88/
 
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Cheers guys!
Andrew
Edited by Andrew_L26

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So it's been ages since my last update but the progress hasn't stopped. (Though it has been slow)

Fuel filler area has been sorted

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Doors have had major work done with all rust removed as well as the huge dents pulled out (looks like they were run into a pole or something)andrew_langford88_BekIK8ml2F8.thumb.jpg.40bec5c4b51126dc9e54de202502b1e3.jpg

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The rear tail light are has had some serious work done and is looking so much better than before

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Roof frame has been cut out, still need to make up a repair section which will be challenging but ultimately worth it as most of the 2+2s I've seen are rotted out in this area (even restored examples)

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Got some fibreglass front guards, sort of cheating but I need to move this build on and these guards are lighter, cheaper and plastic DOESN'T RUST!

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The guards needed a fair bit of work to get rid of the cracks and scratches

 

I made up some lower rear 1/4 repair sections. Super happy with how these came out 

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Got the left hand side welded in after sorting out the rust on the inside

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Finally got sick of working in the driveway and built my self a "shed" which is really just a shed frame concreted in with a few big tarps over the top to keep the council happy (no building permit needed for a "temporary" structure)

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Got the right hand lower rear 1/4 section cut out, inside parts repaired and outer skin welded in.andrew_langford88_BrRFJ_VlKCd.thumb.jpg.b3f74f634682765e129f021207934ef9.jpgandrew_langford88_BrcAlCvFMTF.thumb.jpg.529bb2b4db3377efb4991715c9985c91.jpgandrew_langford88_BrcAlCvlh0L.thumb.jpg.621ce554f97d567fc84d952c615b48d3.jpg

 

Finished off the rear beaver panel and spent an entire day grinding to get everything flat. 

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Decided to redo the passenger rear window repair as I wasn't happy with my last attempt. Also got the seam looking factory.

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Then spent some time getting the door gap correct as this section has had some major work on both the door side and the actual body.

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Continued work on the dogleg repair, not finished but getting better slowly.

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Got rid of all the sound deadening in the interior and began to wire wheel it. Now I'm part way through repairing all the little rust holes in the floor (and the bigger ones) luckily there wasn't anything major waiting under the sound deadening. 

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Also test fit the tail lights to ensure that all the work done in that area hasn't altered the fitment of the lights. The left side is pretty much perfect and the right side isn't far behind only needing a small amount of work to get the fitment perfect!

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As of now that's all I've done which leaves the rest of the interior rust repairs, right hand dogleg and sill, the roof, the rear hatch and scuttle panel. Decided I'm going to purchase a fibreglass bonnet as the weight savings will be huge (and mine is stuffed beyond feasible repair)

 

Oh, and I just purchased some 15x7 +5 genuine Watanabes (not new ones either, managed to get some old ones made around the late 70s/early 80s which is perfect for my car). They need restoration but they only have minor corrosion and damage (after sitting on a DR30 Skyline for 20 years in a paddock)

Hoping to squeeze some 235/50R15 toyo's on under the stock guards but failing that I'll settle for some 225s

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As always if you want to keep updated with the latest you can follow my Instagram here:

https://www.instagram.com/andrew_langford88

 

 

 

 

Edited by Andrew_L26

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1 hour ago, gav240z said:

Wow, someone is determined, your welding skills have certainly improved.

Yeah, they sure have! It's all practice really. I've actually taken 6 months off uni to get the car finished. Working 3 days a week and spending the rest of the time getting stuff done on the zed. The project has been dribbling on too long so it's time to get her finished and driving! Going to be sorting out the engineering cert for the turbo conversion. I'm going to document the process so those in Victoria know what to expect if doing a similar upgrade.

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Continuing on from my last post, floor pan patches. Plenty of little rust spots to patch!

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Cut open the drivers side dogleg and sill area, about what I expected.

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Little bit of panel beating to get the dogleg repair sections up to scratch (still needs some work but getting there)

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The replacement rear slam panel. I picked up a 240z section from rare spares and modified it to work on the 2+2. I just had to add a lip to the front of it as well as clearance the latch dimples.

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Plenty of weld thru primer!

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All welded on. Overall super happy with this repair. Considering how bad it was I'm stoked!

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This is it before...

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Now for the most difficult repair I have undertaken on the car. The rear hatch mounting has some serious design issues on the 2+2's, they collect moisture and rot out, if you have even small holes or just rust scale up here I can almost guarantee that if you dig into it you will discover how fu**ed it is. I tried to source a rust free section but after looking at around four cars I wasn't able to find anything that was in good condition. I even had a look at restored 2+2's, original 2+2's etc etc. and they all have this issue. I only know of two other people who have actually done this repair so there is little documentation on it.

If you are attempting this repair it is important that you build up a jig that bolts into the hatch mounting points and then triangulates down to the strut towers (or somewhere that is sturdy) This is so that once you have a repair section you will be able to line it up correctly. 

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I started by folding up the rough shape, taking the average measurements from the entire length as the panel is not evenly shaped. 

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I then began to heat and curve the section, this would be made easy with a shrinking and expanding tool, unfortunately I don't have access to one (one tool I really want to buy)

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Then I make up the strengthening plates and weld them on (with nuts on the back for the hatch to bolt to)

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The corner sections are welded on as well as the end pieces.

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Lots of test fitting with the hatch.

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Small repairs to the roof skin, avoiding putting much heat into it as the roof is the last panel I want to warp!

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All primed, ready to go in!

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Turned out great! Waiting on a replacement hatch (as mine is fairly rough) so that I can perfectly line up the roof skin and weld it in place.

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Considering the difficulty of this repair I am super happy with how it came out, it still needs some adjustment to get the hatch fitment spot on but nothing major!

 

 

Rear subframe and suspension out, as well as the engine and front crossmember

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Made up a quick rotisserie using scrap that I had lying around, cost me nothing to build except some welding wire, gas and cut off wheels.

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The underbody was what I expected for the most part, the underfloor supports are dented and scraped but not too badly rusted, A bit of rust here and there but nothing too serious. I was more worried about how badly they were dented (I want this car to be pretty underneath as well!!)

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The underbody sealer and stoneguard was shocking to deal with, started to strip it but I decided it wasn't worth my time, and so I decided to get it sandblasted! Also got the inside of the floorpans done (I had already chipped off the sound deadning) I decided to go with a automotive sandblaster as he was local and super knowledgable, normally doing concourse stuff but also the occasional budged blast like mine. Chris is an amazing guy who knows what he is doing in the automotive stripping world. NO WARPED PANELS HERE! He does charge a bit more than your average cowboy with a sandblaster but his knowledge and can do attitude makes up for it! His website is http://yvblastclean.com/  (Yarra Valley Blast Cleaning)

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Came out amazing, quite a few pinholes and other rust spots surfaced as expected. 

A few before and after photos. I got stuck in a bit of a drizzle when heading over there, hence the surface rust on the before shots. Also I must note that he was doing a quick job for me to save costs, hence the seam sealer left and little bits here and there.

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Got her home, did a quick repair on the roof and drivers side window line. 

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Back into the floor pan patches. 

Re-doing the first repair I ever did. I remember coming home from the xmas bbq and getting stuck in with my gassless mig, good fun!

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Lost some motivation after my trip to japan and getting busy (and the huge number of little patches I still had to go) so I decided to get my mate over and smash out all the little patches! Got them all done in a day! Thanks Matt!!

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If you're ever loosing motivation, call in reinforcements for a day and get a heap done, certainly worked for me!

My plan with the underfloor supports was to cut the bottom section off (as it has bits of rust and is seriously dented) and weld in some nice flat sheet metal. Ended up working out great!

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The whole underside is complete as is the interior (other than the old under-dash repair I did ages ago which needs some attention)

 

On another note me and my mate Matt decided we needed a car trailer, though we weren't about to go out and drop 2 grand on one! Nope, we bought what was essentially a POS old trailer and completely rebuilt it, including new draw bar, extended bed, new brakes, hubs, tool box, full electric system with electric winch and lights. All in I think it was around $1400 including rego, and about 6 days of solid work with two people. Was a heap of fun building, practiced some welding and we have ended up with a mad trailer!

I mounted the winch in a way that it could be quickly removed as well as rotated 90 degrees and 180 degrees, this is because my driveway is fairly steep and muddy and the old commodore isn't always able to pull it out from the bottom of the driveway. I am easily able to flip it around and use it to pull the trailer up the driveway!

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Going back to uni next week so I probably won't get as much done over the next 6 months but I'm hoping to have her in primer and be a good way through the filling and panel beating stage by the end of the year. I will hopefully also be bringing her to the Xmas BBQ in her unfinished state!

 

Cheers guys! Looking forward to finishing these bloody rust repairs! The end of them is near!

 

As always follow me on Instagram for the latest, New username too!

Driveway_Datsuns

https://www.instagram.com/driveway_datsuns/

 

 

BONUS PHOTOS FROM JAPAN (INCLUDING STAR ROAD, HISTORY GARAGE, TOYOTA MUSEUM and DAIKOKU FUTO PA)

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Was just verifying the lack of an L series!

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Loving the purple!

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Edited by Andrew_L26

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great update bud! your welding skills sure have come along!

Shame that it looks like Star road was closed when you went there. Shoji is a awesome host, he let my wife and i stay there for a few hours, gave us tea, and even drove us to look at a temple before he dropped us off at the station! Luckily it was lightly raining all day and it was quiet as at his workshop, so he was more than happy to hang with us.

Any more photos of Daikoku futo? how did you get there? i wanted to go but it seemed you needed to take a taxi,  so i didn't end up going, wish i did! Did you check out UpGarage or superautobachs while you were there? superautobachs is only 1 train stop away from megaweb and all that in the bay area.

Rudi.

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Posted (edited)

So not going to lie I've been distracted with 90s jap cars, sorry but they dont rust and they are dirt cheap in comparison what can I say :-X

 

Anyway, I have done a bit in the last 12 months but not a whole heap. That being said, the car is pretty well as rust free as I'm going to get it. Floor pans are done, Floor supports are done, sills are done as are doglegs.
 

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Since my last post I've moved out of home into a propper shed (and a house of course!) On top of Uni I've been working a lot more than I have in the past leaving a bit less time to work on cars. (I'm lying and making excuses for not knuckling down and getting her done)

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Possums had decided to live on my doors, so I took them to the new place...

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Back to the zed!

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Got my mate around to smash out a bit of work! Got me back on track!

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Now I started to test fit doors to start ensuring that all the gaps were perfect (as perfect as they can be on these cars anyway)

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A bit of work was required around the dogleg area as it had been reconstructed from scratch.

Scored myself a excellent condition hatch for $100, I knew it had a little rust and dings but it was in original paint so there were no surprises, which is rare with these cars

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The next major task was to get the hatch to line up correctly due to the MAJOR surgery where the hatch mounts and the fairly major work that has been done around the tail lights, remember this? 

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I regret not making up a better jig before cutting out the roof frame but with a bit of pulling and beating the hatch fits nicely. I also had to adjust the corner of the 1/4 panels slightly with the welder. 

So as I said she has been a little niglected the past 7 months especially, I feel that I needed a break from the seemingly endless project so I decided to do a few smaller "builds" to get the satisfaction levels up and get away from the grinding and welding. This is what I've been up to!

Purchased a 1999 WRX for a parts car to do a WRX conversion on my partners car (once mine and one of my best mates cars which we have a huge attatchment to)

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Engine is getting a full timing belt kit and seals etc. before going into the other car!

Managed to fully strip it, keep the entire interior, all wiring and driveline (including suspension etc.) and still make $100 off the leftover parts! 

The shell was sold off to someone to re-use so it didn't even go to scrap!

 

The next side hussle was a clean 1974 TA22 celica. The prices have been going up like crazy lately (not as much as the S30s but still a fair bit). I decided to get this one as it was the right price, only has very very minor rust (which I now know how to spot) but a bit of panel damage from being hit. Originally it was between a 260z 2+2 and a TA22 Celica, now I have both!

Considering it has no engine I'm planning a high budget twin charged K24 honda engine, Failing the twincharging system if it proves to be too difficult I might go just supercharged but we will see.

This will be my next major project after this zed is done and is currently in storage, I only cataloged the parts, gave it a good clean out, stripped the areas prone to rust and only found very minor rust. Toyota's designs were far superior in terms of water drainage etc. as well as a higher carbon steel being used so less rust!!!!

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The next car on the list was the old family car, 2008 toyota corolla with 330,000km on it (now my sisters) It hadn't had any of the suspension touched on it since new. So a full rebuild was in order, fresh bushes throughout, new balljoints, sway bar endlinks, brakes, wheel bearings, shocks etc. Drives like new!

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This was pretty much every bushing in the car, pretty rough for a 12 year old car!

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So the corolla was done!

Next was to get my 1999 N15 Pulsar SSS Turbo engineered so I can actually drive it!

After getting it defected driving it on my P's it had been sitting for about a year and a half.

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She was cleaned up and prepped for an engineering cert.

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The car was then dropped off at the engineer and $850 later all legit!

Car was then re-registered and it is now my daily, boost controller and a few other mods to make it go like the clappers. My guess is probably 170kw at the wheels, enough to chop standard V8 Commo's and Falcons which is all I want from this nana car!

Finally got the chance to properly decontaminate the paint and cut her back properly the other day.

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Came out pretty good for a total of around $4k including engineering.

Also how good is this sticker!

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5 stud conversion, R32 GTR brakes and genuine white TE37s. Just got to machine up a few custom parts before it's ready!.

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So after the Pulsar was engineered, a cheap 1998 WRX came up for sale, not running, the original plan was to part it out as the advert stated it had 370k on the clock.

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Well, turns out it actually only has 270k on the clock and it just needed the fuel system cleaned out and a fresh pump as it had been sitting for about 5 years. 

Decided not to part it out, pull the engine out, reseal the entire thing with a fresh timing belt kit etc. I'll eventually sell it but I'll get it registered first and enjoy it for a bit!

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The rexy is back up and running, just waiting for COVID to piss off before I can get it registered.

The last vehicle I purchased was a ride on mower for $50, goes great!

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Also purchased a bigboy air compressor. I'm wanting to do my own sandblasting and there is nothing worse than running out of air! 42cfm!

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Runs a 3/4" airline to the sandblaster. Should be able to do whole cars myself now!

 

And back to the zed if you're still with me! I appreciate it if you are!

(yes it looks a little sad but the gaps are spot on!)

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I've finally got my motivation back for the Purple Z, apart from doing a few things on the Pulsar and getting the WRX registered, this will be my focus! Hopefully it will be done one day?!

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Edited by Andrew_L26

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Wow, what a journey.  Kudos to you Andrew for your persistence. 

Looking forward to further updates. 

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