Jump to content
Gordo

Gordo takes over the Peter Mac Build.

Recommended Posts

Time to pull the L28 engine and gear box out. It’s a good opportunity to redo the brake lines and run a new clutch line to hook up to the new gearbox. Time to clean up the engine bay of all things not required and fresh coat of paint. I haven’t had a fuel gauge in this car before. So now is a good time to fit one. eBay. The gear box measures up ok to fit and gear shifter is close to standard position.

im choosing to make my own gearbox mount once it’s fitted.

81B9D5D8-931F-47AD-A8A6-64FA153E6FAB.jpeg

DBA0DCA5-F993-4B22-ACBE-CA9A2A55237E.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Gordon. This may be an issue long resolved by newer alternative options but at the time it was a PITA.

Bleeding the t56 clutch was hard enough in a Holden but near impossible in an S30. The solution was to:

Remove the long bleed nipple and replace with a short piece of tubing and a long flexible line - available from Mal Woods (Qld).

https://postimg.cc/YGLKnsgG

https://postimg.cc/rzq7tsZR

Route the line up the firewall.

https://postimg.cc/646Ssb4f

https://postimg.cc/2b7JKNy5

Note: Do not let the line dangle unattached while you run the motor... D'oh!

Edited by PeterAllen

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes the motor goes back into the red 240z from which it came from.

Mick sent the exhaust headers, sump kit and the engine mounts over. So I’m setting the hole lot up on to small trolley tabes so it’s easy to move around. When I pulled the L28 out complete with gearbox,headers, and Carbys the weight was 240kg total.  So I’m looking forward to weighing the LS with all the add ons. The sump kit went on nicely. Came with bolts , pick up and dip stick.

0064B000-9F0A-4156-8473-B8B18E330B4F.jpeg

65B7F7A6-AE10-4D5A-872F-FF0349C3BB5E.jpeg

CB7555F2-6A9E-4DF0-B6B1-C694B6874F86.jpeg

818E03AF-D405-4DE3-A670-17AD9AE78337.jpeg

BC6614A7-005B-4BC1-9028-3972009E0931.jpeg

B5CBF47F-63A2-4EA2-AD52-B5D885EADD4D.jpeg

B660574D-1159-484C-9A00-412FC6D59D29.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

With the engine set up on the trolleys I wanted to get as many accessories fitted to the motor I could. Needed the pulley belt to suit the under Drive pulley and a pulley to replace where the power steer pump would mount. I have electric steer.  Powder coated the rocker covers. And coil pack brackets.had a new clutch line made with the push on fitting to suit the slave cylinder. The engine knock sensors where hard to fit in behind the headers. I had to put one near the engine mount . Next is to trial fit the engine and gear box.

pics of Engine mounts from Dirty Dingo

D1548C8C-AE9B-4BC0-80D7-B16866FAFA97.jpeg

CE835B3E-B163-44F7-ADD9-06C51D044A7C.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, KatoKid said:

Stock ECU Gordo?

Hey Dave, the guy who got me the throddel peddle that suits the flyby wire is getting the wireing loom for me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Putting the engine and gear box in was a bit of work. Was trying to support the rear of the gearbox to get the right angle to bolt or at least seat the engine mounts .  This was in and out a few times as I had to cut the hole bigger to allow for the shifter to fit.  So settling on the gear box height (as high as I could get it ) I was able to hold or support it with a pice of timber decking.lol.  

Some may not know but  the steering imput shaft goes between the primary’s. Two on one side and two on the other. So positioning the engine back and forth deminishes the clearance because of the angle. That left me to fit the headers and position the engine according the the headers clearance. The header would not just drop in and bolt up. The engine had to be lifted about 100mm the guide the headers in. So the gear box was hard to support through out this proses. Anyway finally found the best position and used a string line to measure center line for gearbox. With this sorted I’ve measured and ordered my tail shaft. And made up my gearbox mount.

2A308FC3-25E9-4583-AC4C-BDB1BAA00C39.jpeg

EB3B276F-4EB7-46D3-9E4F-619DDAC5D13E.jpeg

1724D006-072A-4BBF-A15D-6785189F7A7D.jpeg

DEA489E9-5EF1-47C4-943D-3138909D4750.jpeg

CCD62465-3137-408E-B1FF-DA8EBDF95FC3.jpeg

Edited by Gordo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The gearbox mount was made out of hoop iron to get a template. Then 5mm x75mm flat bar bent into shape. Bolted into the chassis rails and welded tabs with more bolts through the tunnel. Into and through reinforced plating.

note the temporary gearbox support 

FC114EAB-C5ED-4151-9E59-488371A9EE3E.jpeg

27DF4125-5B56-40DF-BC69-1DCF44A3E0E1.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Gordo, have you checked drive line alignment? The rubber donuts wont tolerate any deflection so need to point straight at the diff pinion center. Are you using a uni joint or CV at rear? 

I've got lasers and brackets to check this if you want.

Edited by KatoKid

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Picked up the tail shaft. The guy made up a billet adaptor to replace the stock donut. Theres also a slip join fo movement. Got some new high tensile bolts, fingers crossed they hold .  With the tail shaft in I was checking the drive line. Seams that the clutch is not disengaging. That’s not good. I’ll bleed it some more tomorrow. Master cylinder could be to small, or I may have put the twin plate clutch in wrong.

looking at the photos clutch looks ok, Might be a gearbox out job.

 

67ACD94C-77B7-4A6D-B244-F217D471AD1B.jpeg

DD00CE67-0E1F-4FAB-AF9D-952BACE15837.jpeg

315F6E13-FAAA-4CF9-984C-1999E9C07B2D.jpeg

C91F117A-79A0-4B93-8062-06C40980F4F1.jpeg

186D10E5-00BB-47BF-9673-61EABAA4DDAF.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Those concentric throw out bearings can be problematical, is there a external conversion kit available? My 350Z has one.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

With the clutch not disengaging ive tryed a bigger master cylinder still not working. gearbox out found the slave cylinder was the right one for this engine gearbox combo, but not a twin plate clutch. the through out bearing needs to be shorter for the thicker twin plate clutch. back to the brake place and another through out bearing.  after a bit more measuring and checking i put it all back in . finally we have a clutch.

 exaust was next on the list 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a 7.25" (18cm) 2 disk button clutch on my T56 and the QuarterMaster throwout bearing setup was VERY finicky. There were numerous warnings about setting it wrong and damaging the pressure plate or the hydraulic bearing itself. I had to do a bunch of measuring and then set up a pedal stop so that the bearing didn't travel too far.

Maybe you did all of that too, but the way you described had me a bit worried that you might have skipped a step or two, or maybe it doesn't matter as much with the particular throwout bearing you have, but thought you might benefit from a heads up.

Edited by JonMortensen

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Haha. It may be done. My updates are a little behind so I’ll try and catch up when time permits.

the exhaust had to have a balance pipe and also be quite enough to get under the 75db noise limits. I could not believe how low the twin 3in exaust was. Tried to get it as high as I could. Even went to 2 1/2in just before the diff.

2E002093-672C-42EF-8A4E-A51C0133A06A.jpeg

ED7C2B8A-ED8E-43CC-8CAF-7061FBD015F5.jpeg

DC1C5C5F-B697-4A70-AC66-68500E3AF6E6.jpeg

7A11E02C-8766-4849-B844-D90FB1671FE3.jpeg

Edited by Gordo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

With the exhaust complete it was time to tidy up all things under the car. Clutch , fuel and brake hoses all got some attention. The peddle box was put back in and brake and clutch bleed. Fuel pump wired up and tested. 

The engine sensors where hard to fit as the headers are very close. I got my self a oil catch can and fittings.i would be using the same alloy radiator with the inlet and outlets in the right place. Got some new hoses.  The air intake bends filter and pipes from eBay .

With most of the engine bay done it was time to take it to my mate for the wiring loom and final fuel line connections to be fitted.

FB213DE4-79DB-4CDB-88E7-9FF8D82ACC3A.jpeg

40C39FFF-B6A7-4BA9-BE5C-47B58F266E1E.jpeg

1C9AC9E5-8AEB-4FD0-91BF-BC62EF63ADC0.jpeg

9F3F760D-264F-4FC0-A69A-6367625CD556.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wiring done as best we can. thurmo fans come on at 95deg. the tacko needs to be changed to suit the v8. was quoted $245 to convert the old one. So i think ill buy an after market one. On first start up the motor would not idle on its own. The new computer will need some programing to sort all this out. But at least it goes. So ive got it booked in for a dyno tune and if everything goes all right Ill do the next track day for a shake down.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...