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Jeff's 240z build


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Time to start a build thread…

I purchased this car in October 2014 from Dolls Point in Sydney from an Ebay seller. It looked ok but upon inspection in person it had all the usual early Datsun problems with rust etc. The car ran quite well with a newish L26 having been fitted at some stage.

The car also came with the original matching numbers L24 motor (This is probably what clinched the deal for me). The car is rusty but not as bad as some, I probably paid a bit too much for it but it’s all there and its only money after all and you cannot take it with you.

I picked her home in late October and so the journey begins

 

First thing I did was to fit new tyres, cleaned a few things up and took it to rego inspection in November to see what would happen. It failed on two items, rust in the drivers floor (not the only place but only place that seemed to matter) and the turn indicators not flashing fast enough (they worked but are a bit slow, like me)

 

With Christmas then holidays for most of January and a work trip nothing much happened until March 2015.

 

After getting our shed organised, cleaned out and purchase of some equipment, work has now started in earnest. After closer inspection of the rust and mechanicals a clear path has been set and the wheels are now in motion.

Lots of parts have been ordered components removed cleaned and shipped off for repairs or modifications. I decided to start work on the passenger’s side (good place to practice as I won’t see that side as much)

 

The Sill has been removed and replaced, Most of the sound proofing has been removed (renovators are an amazing tool for this). Rear quarter is next in this area with a new outer cut and inner guard to be fitted.

Struts have been removed stripped cleaned up and sent to MCA for Josh to sort out. Gearbox and Diff have been removed had years of gunk cleaned off and shipped to LCR (the original L24 will also go south)

 

I will try to keep this sort of up to date but I would rather spent time in the shed, not on the computer…..

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Thanks Boys

Catching up on brownie points today and some paperwork so not much action in the shed.

 

 

Great, what did you use to strip the underbody of the car? Some kind of wire brush on a drill?

I have been using a "renovator" with an assortment of blade type bits to remove the underbody. It is very effective. Took about 15 min for each floor section and about 20 min on the inner wheel arch. You can see the before and after in the photos.

 

Great work Jeff. Where did you source the inner wheel well panel section from?

 

Inner and outer guard are a Tabco product via The Z Store from Merica

 

30-7301        Fender Repair Panel, Left, 70-78 240Z-260Z-280Z      1        $47.95     

30-7302        Fender Repair Panel, Right, 70-78 240Z-260Z-280Z      1        $47.95     

30-7307        Inner Wheel Arch Repair Panel, Left, 70-78 240Z-260Z-280Z Coupe      1      $137.98     

30-7308        Inner Wheel Arch Repair Panel, Right, 70-78 240Z-260Z-280Z Coupe      1      $137.98

 

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By the way Jeff, was the lower sill panel from Tabco also? Any fitment issues with the Tabco stuff or pretty good?

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By the way Jeff, was the lower sill panel from Tabco also? Any fitment issues with the Tabco stuff or pretty good?

 

Hi Gav

Yes the lower sill was also a Tabco product.

No fitment problems at all. I measured and re measured before I started and it all went together fine. Only thing I have found with all their products is that the relief around the section is generous. Meaning that they start with a bigger section of sheet than is required and you have to trim some off at the edges. I am very happy with the sections I have purchased. One of the other boys who dose more of this may have further comment? I have also purchased some local Rare Spares sections and don't think they are of the same quality or finish.

I did manage to get home early today after dropping off my steering rack and control arms at the local suspension and steering emporium for some attention, to do a test fit of the passengers side inner and outer guard section. I will pull it apart again and re check before making the final cut through both the new and old outer guards so I have a neat cut line to weld with a 1mm cutting disk gap.

 

I was reading last night and came across this quote "One of the eternal truths of automotive restorations is that inherited problems from previous restorers are always worse than problems that occur naturally". How true this is and boy have I found a few of these with this car. Hope I don't make any along the way......

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that replacement wheel arch looks really good! It seems by saving money on buying a 2+2, i seem to have shot myself in the foot, as you cant get any of these nice replacement panels for a bus.

 

How was postage on them? and how long did they take to get to you?

 

looking forward to the progress shots

 

Rudolf.

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Here is another angle of the repair.

 

that replacement wheel arch looks really good! It seems by saving money on buying a 2+2, i seem to have shot myself in the foot, as you cant get any of these nice replacement panels for a bus.

 

How was postage on them? and how long did they take to get to you?

 

looking forward to the progress shots

 

Rudolf.

 

Shipping is expensive but well worth it when it arrives via DHL in about a week, they do it on a volume basis so its always fun to add a few stocking fillers  :). Its all relative, spend the money and get the parts quickly keep motivated and pushing along. Get is send on a slow boat and it takes ages. You get distracted and when parts finally arrive you are probably off skiing or surfing and not motivated anymore.

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Nice work mate. A handy tool to have is  a air operated punch and flange tool. This allows you to put a step in the patch panel and overlay the patch on the job by about 10mm making it a stronger repair instead of doing a butt weld. Also saves you blowing holes through the metal when welding.

This reminds me of all the work I have done on my z.

keep up the posts.

 

 

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I was reading last night and came across this quote "One of the eternal truths of automotive restorations is that inherited problems from previous restorers are always worse than problems that occur naturally". How true this is and boy have I found a few of these with this car. Hope I don't make any along the way......

 

I know the feeling (not wanting to make mistakes), I think it's true no repair is better than a botched repair. Also more previous owners = more trouble.

 

Its all relative, spend the money and get the parts quickly keep motivated and pushing along. Get is send on a slow boat and it takes ages. You get distracted and when parts finally arrive you are probably off skiing or surfing and not motivated anymore.

 

Yeah I agree with that once you have momentum keep going, once you stop it can be hard to start again, especially in winter when the garage is cold. :P

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Nice work mate. A handy tool to have is  a air operated punch and flange tool. This allows you to put a step in the patch panel and overlay the patch on the job by about 10mm making it a stronger repair instead of doing a butt weld. Also saves you blowing holes through the metal when welding.

This reminds me of all the work I have done on my z.

keep up the posts.

 

 

 

Thanks @Red76z. Yes that is one of the methods that can be used. Like all of the options there are good points and bad to each of them. My preferred method is to use a gap and but weld it using a copper helper like this

or this
> its a matter of using a method you are comfortable with.

I am a refrigeration mechanic so have a fair bit of copper tubing hanging around. My plan is to use a length of thick wall large diameter tube and make a specific tool for the job that can be fitted behind the butt weld and then slid out after its all done through the rear hatch area. It may well be a one use only but see how we go. I will post some photos.

 

Too much work this week but managed to get a few things sorted out.

The local steering emporium repots are all looking good regarding the rack re build and some new components for the front end.

Picked up my rebuilt rear wheel cylinders and front callipers, new pads and shoes and a set of Brembo front disks. So they are ready for assembly at some point in time.

Spoke to Josh at MCA and they are well under way with the struts. All going to plan they should arrive back in Canberra with the boys coming back from Rally of QLD week after next.

Had an email from Les at LCR and Gear box rebuild may also be underway?

Also managed time this afternoon to weld in the inner guard section and may even get the outer section done tomorrow (maybe)

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Gearbox is underway (preliminary).

R180 is still on the shelf waiting to be looked at.

 

Thanks Lurch. I will drop past your "den" and say hello when I come down to pick up these components and drop off the L24. Hopefully if all goes to plan this will time in to coincide with the dyno run of the 2.4l grunter for the 1600 wagon!!!

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Sometimes priorities get a bit compromised. Like going shopping to get food or work on the Z car. Spending time with she who shall be obeyed or working on the Z car. Doing some gardening because Mother is coming to stay this week or working on the Z car. You get the gist. All of this resulted in a very short time in the shed this weekend. So after putting the lamb roast in to slow roast at 12.30 today I made the shed at 1.00 pm.

As it turned out, a productive afternoon was had by myself with able supervision from Rocky the Labrador.

 

First thing was to re fit the passenger’s side door to be sure all was aligned.

Then the rear guard was re fitted after some primer was applied. It was removed and re fitted several times before being fitted and cut with the angle grinder.

Removal and drill holes for the plug welds and then re fitted and removed again.

A re fit and then some tack welding.

I’m happy with the outcome. I also made some copper weld helpers that came in handy during the process. Managed to get Max our son to give me a hand during the welding process as it was proving difficult not having disjointed elbows and longer arms.

Photos are attached.

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Lookin good..

Interesting you have a relatively low number for a feb-73.. Cant figure these numbers out  ::)

 

Thanks Chris

I'm quite happy with the outcome. On to the drivers side..............

 

I don't understand the numbers either. This car has indicators mounted on the front bumper like fog lights. As per some cars that went to the UK and some other RHD markets. It has no indicators in the guards front or rear.

Also a few other odd things that I originally thought was a result of previous owners but I'm now convinced its all as it came from Japan.

 

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I don't understand the numbers either. This car has indicators mounted on the front bumper like fog lights. As per some cars that went to the UK and some other RHD markets. It has no indicators in the guards front or rear.

Also a few other odd things that I originally thought was a result of previous owners but I'm now convinced its all as it came from Japan.

 

 

73 model AU delivered 240z's didn't have indicators in the guards. They had them below the bumper (inside of the overriders). So your car is normal for an AU market 240z.

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73 model AU delivered 240z's didn't have indicators in the guards. They had them below the bumper (inside of the overriders). So your car is normal for an AU market 240z.

 

Thanks Gav.

I have a mate who has a car with a similar number to my car that has a few differences. His car is a 72 delivered car about the 6 months before my car I think? I will check.

 

Jeff

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