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Posted

Guys,

Have made a start on my stock standard rebuild, block's been tanked and bored, head's been done, supplies been bought, but

1.  I have a copy of the factory manual and its absolutely terrible for a factory manual. It has no exploded drawings, the photos are hardly readable and instructions are very vague in a lot of sections - specifically the head assembly

2. Which brings me to my first problem. Some genius disassembled it and didn't bag the bolts, so now I have a box of bolts and no bloody diagrams, so a couple of questions

a. I'm including a photo of the bolts. Can anyone tell me what there're from? The studs are obvious but for some reason they are different sizes

b. Is there some parts manual or a photo rebuild site ?

i only have this

http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunZIndex/Engine240Z260Z/CylinderHead/tabid/1560/Default.aspx

c. Where can I buy a set of studs from, other then the local dealer ?

I'll be posting more pics as I go so maybe this is will be of value to the community

While I'm here, does anyone want to offload an engine stand they're not using? I see the new ones have dropped to $85

Thanks in advance

<something wrong with phot upload, wil try later>

  • Administrators
Posted

Yes I was going to suggest same book.

Posted

Don't re-use head bolts as they stretch over time (PMC told me this so it must be true)

 

He told me that studs are much better as they don't twist as they torque - weakening the bolt and straining the threads.

 

He used ARP studs on my build and suggested we all should use them.  Yes, my engine is the most stock engine he has ever put his hands on.

 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-1970-78-ARP-Racing-Cylinder-Head-Studs-L24-L26-L28-NEW-/331564239429?hash=item4d32c4ca45#ht_22wt_1362

 

or if you want to keep using studs:

 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-1970-83-Cylinder-Head-Bolt-Set-Bolts-OEM-NEW-/331556872007?hash=item4d32545f47#ht_22wt_1362

 

 

Posted

yes, buy new head studs, old head studs cost me a fully rebuilt engine when one snapped off in the block destroying all the thread, im still chasing my tail trying to fix this problem

Posted

and the manifold/exhaust studs?

forgot to mention the work that needed to be done

[*]full sleeve in cyl#1

bore and hone

one of the valve seats was dropping - in the end all had to be replaced

valves too worn for grind, all new valves

corrosion on the front alloy cover

head resurfaced

chain kit

all new seals, gaskets

 

[*]

the work was done by a place called sircar in huntingdale, place i have used a couple of times before

here are the phots of the bolts

IMG-20150602-00208

IMG-20150602-00207

 

i think the long skinny bolts are all from the front cover

.. but the bit that i'm angry about the most is that the engine looks exactly like a 180b motor with 2 more cylinders. wth?

ps. who's PMC?

does anyone know the size of the bolts to use for the engine stand? m10x1.5x10? high tensile or standard?

Posted

by the way, rang up brighton nissan and was told by the parts guy that he doesn;t even have a parts list for a 240 and there are no parts avilable at all. zip. nada.what a monumental goose - to put it mildly. i would rather rub broken glass into my eyelids that get anything from these clowns

  • Moderators
Posted

and the manifold/exhaust studs?

 

I always use new ones, they don't cost much.

you should able to get them at the local Repco, Auto1 or similar.

Posted

I'll have a crack at some :

 

# 2,3,4 - could go anywhere, but most likely on manifold studs

 

#7 - guides to locate head on block. If you look closely at the head and block, you'll see where they are located in a head bolt hole.

 

#8 - oil slinger on front of crank

 

#11 (the leftmost bolt) - doesn't look like a factory bolt

 

#11, 12 - front timing cover bolts ?

 

Long skinny ones are the water pump / front cover bolts. If you look, it should be obvious which ones go in which holes.

 

I'll have a look through my spares manuals later tonight and get a list of part numbers for you to quote to a Nissan dealer. Most of the bolts you want will be common to a lot of cars, from Datsun 1600's through to Bluebirds, 240Z through to 280C, patrols, 720 utes, etc. A hell of a lot of Nissan / Datsuns used the L-series engine in either 4 or 6 cylinder form and in different capacities. Which is why your engine looks like a 180B motor with 2 extra cylinders because it is a 180B motor with two extra cylinders (or a 180B is a 240Z motor with 2 less cylinders).

 

 

 

 

 

Posted

Here's the studs used on the cylinder head :

 

08214-82510 - manifold (8mm x 25mm)

08214-82810 - manifold (8mm x 28mm - used where engine lifting bracket bolts on as well)

 

08223-83510 - fuel pump (8mm x 35mm)

 

08218-61810 - little cover on front of head (6mm x 18mm). But only for one hole - the other two use bolts  ??? I believe the stud is used for where the fuel line bolts on as well.

 

You could also try 08224-82510 and 08224-82810 in place of the first two manifold studs, they have the same dimensions, not sure why two different part numbers ?

Posted

Thermostat housing :

 

11063-21000 or 11063-21001 (M8 x 69mm) These ones are important, use a too-long bolt and it can go through into the timing chain area and even possibly interfere with chain / chain guide.

08110-83010 (M8 x 30mm)

 

 

Rocker cover:

 

13274-21001

 

 

two bolts in little inspection cover on front of head:

 

08110-61210 - (M6 x 12)

Posted

does your parts manual have all the bolt dimensions?

 

Sort-of  :o

 

I don't have a parts manual for a 240Z / 260Z, the numbers I'm quoting are from 180B / 200B / 1600 parts manuals but should be perfectly OK for use on an L24 or L26 engine.

 

The parts catalogue itself for the particular model of car usually doesn't have dimensions, but most of these engine parts are so-called "standard parts" (ie used on many models) and are listed in another Nissan Motors catalogue - the "Standard Parts Catalog - Metric Dimensions" which details the dimensions and finishes of these standard parts. So, if they are "standard parts", I can find the dimensions by finding the part number in one catalogue, then looking up that part number in the "Standard parts catalog" to get the dimensions. Some that aren't "standard"  (the long thermostat bolt, for instance) have the dimensions listed in the parts catalogue for the particular car. Its been 20-odd years since I did this for a living, so it takes me a while to work it out nowadays  :(

 

So yeah, anything you want, I can try to look it up. But it takes some effort to cross reference it all between the two different catalogues.

  • Moderators
Posted

by the way, rang up brighton nissan and was told by the parts guy that he doesn;t even have a parts list for a 240 and there are no parts avilable at all. zip. nada.what a monumental goose - to put it mildly. i would rather rub broken glass into my eyelids that get anything from these clowns

 

Ever since Trevor left,  when he  worked at the spare parts counter, they just replace him with clowns that just couldn't be f&^&*. If you get the part numbers, it may help as they don't want to sit behind the PC for 5 mins to find the parts.

Posted

Yep, a real loss to Brighton Nissan when Trevor left.  I think a few people on here used to get parts from Ferntree Gully Nissan too.  I've never tried.

  • Administrators
Posted

Yep, I don't know of any good Nissan dealerships in Australia that will help you source S30z parts.

 

If you have part no's of what you need let me know?

Posted

Trevor at Brighton Nissan was great. He would go through the old binders to find exploded diagrams and confirm the part you wanted. Now that's service!

 

Someone should forward these stories onto Nissan Australia. I tried to buy a 280zx thermostat from them a years ago only to be told by the parts monkey "no parts left after the tsunami".

 

What a joke!

Posted

I've used Ferntree Gully Nissan a few times and found the service was great, although admittedly I go see them with part numbers in hand

Posted

the donor parts for the L24 will have to come from the complete spare L28 + box ( filler plug on left and bent gearstick, so I'm thinking its a 280 box). i have not had the tranny off the motor, so don;t know what condition the clutch is in

the SUs, manifold, bolted on the 28 looks orig, so plan to reuse these

trawling all the threads, i still have questions

1. i can reuse the 280 flywheel, pressure plate ,disc, bearing. if any of these are toast, replace with stock 28 items

2. i will have to get a 280 slave cyl ( the old one is gone)

3. distributor cap? distributor? ( shows up different on the MSA site)

EVERYTHING else is OK

Posted

 

ps. who's PMC?

 

 

There was a time that you would have been banned from the site (or at least sent to your room) for asking this question.

 

PMC is Peter Mc.  He is an engine builder extraordinaire.  He did some time at Gibson Racing.  He builds amazing monster engines - and doesn't watse his time building stock engines like mine - unless the person is a great bloke - like me  ::)

 

I don't know if he is still active on the forum but Lurch still catches up with him.  If you have any questions about perfomance engine building - especially head improvement - he is the font of all knowledge.

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