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gav240z

Safari Brown... I mean Gold - The NSW Project

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Good one Gav. I have had the same compressor for about a year. I see that they are about $800 at Supercheap over here. I usually buy when things are on special and got mine for about $350.00.  The only mod I did to mine was screw off the Nitto output valve and fit an on/off tap in line. I have found that it holds good pressure and is a good compressor. I initially had a problem with the pressure relief valve not sealing when new (under the on /off switch) but a spray with lube sorted that.

David.

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13 hours ago, Enzo said:

Good one Gav. I have had the same compressor for about a year. I see that they are about $800 at Supercheap over here. I usually buy when things are on special and got mine for about $350.00.  The only mod I did to mine was screw off the Nitto output valve and fit an on/off tap in line. I have found that it holds good pressure and is a good compressor. I initially had a problem with the pressure relief valve not sealing when new (under the on /off switch) but a spray with lube sorted that.

David.

I heard about the $350 special, but apparently it hasn't been available at that price for a long time. I got it around that price, and it's been used a total of 10x according to the previous owner. It certainly looks brand new. I honestly felt like I'd stolen the stuff, he would have spent $1,700 or more on these tools! I got them for less than half that. He had a spray gun in there also, but not sure how good it is for spray painting. Might use it for things like the Airbox and spraying epoxy primer to prevent surface rusting panels etc..

2 hours ago, NEW240 said:

Compressor looks good there, at not on the kitchen table.

Hmmm that's what I haven't tried lol.. ;)

I really can't wait to get my own place and have better working space...

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So when I got this basic L24, I was just gonna degrease it and clean it up and see if it runs ok.

But since I went to the effort of re-coring my radiator and since I'll fit a new water pump, I figured I should probably remove the welch plugs and check if anything is in there. Well the photos will speak for themselves, basically there was years of crud built up in there. I used a pressure washer to blast it out and then a screw driver to chip away any loose rust / crud. I pulled all the plugs, the 1 in the rear of the head and block and the 7 in the sides.

This stuff can't help with cooling of the cylinders and I basically blasted it all until no more brown crud came out and it was mostly clear.

I have vapour blasted parts, yellow cad plated parts to go on and dress it up. I am hoping compression is good and it will be a good little "runner" until I can get around to a full proper build for this car. (I've got the E31 head reconditioned so far, but need to do the block still).

I'll need to order some Welch plugs.

I was inspired after watching this Youtuber pull and replace his welch plugs on his Sigma engine ;D Saw all the dust that came out..

 

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It didn't take too long, if I was rebuilding the block I would have sent it off to get an acid bath and would have pulled all the plugs etc.. and that would have been far easier, but since I'm trying to get away with not rebuilding it I spent some time clearing it all out. Now gonna order in new plugs and hope for the best. Cam has slight wear on a couple of lobes but otherwise it spins relatively freely and seems like it's still in good shape.

As you say, hopefully that means I don't clog up radiators / heater cores.

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Some pressure washers have a detergent hose that you can use to run some diluted acid in a bucket. Could be a good option to give that a try with acid and leave it to sit in there and then give it a good wash out with fresh water. 

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Gav,

I find that doing things properly the first time always ends up being cheaper.  If you pull it down and get it dipped the bore should only need a hone.  That's not a lot of money or effort to ensure you don't block your new radiator and heater core.  It will also mean that engine water galleys don't block up and cause hot spots that may force you to strip it down after the damage has been done.

MaygZ

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So this project hasn't stalled, although I'm not sure if this passenger door and spare skin will be used on this car or my red 72 240z yet.

Since these are spares I picked up, I am partially inclined to use a rare spares skin, given the condition of this 1, but I figured repairing it or attempting to is a good learning process in itself and OEM skins always fit better than aftermarket which need rejigging.

I did discover bog in both the passenger door and driver door skin, I managed to get most of it out and heat shrink the rest so only a small amount of filler will be required. I may need to lead fill the passenger door because of pin holes and the amount of pitting that was present at the bottom.

 

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Decided I'd try the rear valance section from the UK supplier.

indigo123music (UK) - Facebook Page (Auto Panel Solutions) Details in this thread.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/293257126777?ul_noapp=true

Only problem is that the cost is 214 GBP before shipping, once shipping is factored in it will cost around $500 AUD by the time it gets here. I would have bought 2 but never really worth the effort bulk buying and it seems the extras I bring in end up benefiting someone else not me. :). Otherwise I'd have bothered to organise a group buy. Maybe someone else can if there is enough demand? But I also don't know just "how good" this panel will be yet till I have it on hand. So you can call me the guinea pig for this 1, and hopefully the community will benefit from my experience here?

I think this section is a lot better made than the Canadian supplier piece which I struggled with, due to missing compound curves and the thickness of the material it was made from.

Reason I bought this 1 is that it's closer to OEM than the Canadian section (muffler cut out in particular) and the piece I fabricated which I was gonna struggle to get the rear bumper reliefs right in. Since this section is nearly impossible to find now and nobody is doing a full reproduction I decided if I can make 2 good sections out of the scrap I started with it would be beneficial to have 1 spare and it's all a good learning experience (even if it's an expensive 1), but I want this car to look "right" when done. Otherwise once it's in paint any "faults" will really irk me..

Also still cheaper than the $4,500 NOS 1 I tried to buy on eBay a year or so ago...! So from that perspective I'm still ahead, even though I'm behind, if that makes any sense?

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Hey @gav240z on the original rear valance did you notice it to curve in more on the exhaust side and curve out on the opposite side?

I went past to have a look at my car and I noticed the rear valance is curved in more on the exhaust side than the opposite side. I wanted to know if this was standard as the panel beater said they couldn't get it straight.

Cheers,

Youhan

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15 minutes ago, JDM-TOY said:

Hey @gav240z on the original rear valance did you notice it to curve in more on the exhaust side and curve out on the opposite side?

I went past to have a look at my car and I noticed the rear valance is curved in more on the exhaust side than the opposite side. I wanted to know if this was standard as the panel beater said they couldn't get it straight.

Cheers,

Youhan

Yeah I noticed the same also, it seems to be like that from factory. You may be able to see it on my 71.

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Note how it just curves up close to the exhaust exit cut out? This car as far as I can tell has never had a hit in the rear, so appears to be the nature of the panel, probably because of the cut out, it offers a form of "relief" or slack.

 

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On 10/16/2019 at 1:11 PM, gav240z said:

Yeah I noticed the same also, it seems to be like that from factory. You may be able to see it on my 71.

Note how it just curves up close to the exhaust exit cut out? This car as far as I can tell has never had a hit in the rear, so appears to be the nature of the panel, probably because of the cut out, it offers a form of "relief" or slack.

 

Yeah I thought it was like that from factory. I searched pictures on Google and they all curve in on the exhaust side. Hopefully my car will get painted straight after @CroS13 Rudys car is finished.  

Edited by gav240z
No need to quote the photo multiple times.

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I received this section a few days ago and just unboxed it last night to see what it was like.

First thoughts vs the Canadian offering.

1. The thickness / gauge of steel is much better to work with.

2. This comes in epoxy primer (unlike the bare Canadian panel) this is good to prevent flash rust.

3. The compound curves are there and so you won't need an English wheel to shape it unlike the Canadian suppliers piece.

4. The exhaust cut out and bumper reliefs and spare wheel support (impression) are much much better on this piece.

Overall for a replacement section I give it 9.5/10 - It may need some minor shrinking on the top edge to get the curvature spot on but otherwise a very good section.

I spent weeks trying to make 1, weeks trying to make a reproduction section fit and so for all those reasons I'd say it's worth paying $500+ for..

Hope this helps others.

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Well the car is heading back to Victoria! After all this time in NSW. I had to partially put the car back together. Motor back in it, reassemble the door + trim etc.. and get it rolling again (brakes seized slightly from sitting). It just happened to rain 100mm in Sydney today when we were moving it along with my hoarde of Z-shyte! Honestly, not sure why I collected 5 sets of Topy's... if anyone came by today I would have given it all away. But now it's on the way to my new home I'll find a use/home for it.

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4 hours ago, C.A.F. said:

Come to papa!

haha, soon B1 and B2 will be reunited! :D

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I felt like 1, never seen so much rain in Sydney as I have this past weekend.

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