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gav240z

Safari Brown... I mean Gold - The NSW Project

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Good one Gav. I have had the same compressor for about a year. I see that they are about $800 at Supercheap over here. I usually buy when things are on special and got mine for about $350.00.  The only mod I did to mine was screw off the Nitto output valve and fit an on/off tap in line. I have found that it holds good pressure and is a good compressor. I initially had a problem with the pressure relief valve not sealing when new (under the on /off switch) but a spray with lube sorted that.

David.

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13 hours ago, Enzo said:

Good one Gav. I have had the same compressor for about a year. I see that they are about $800 at Supercheap over here. I usually buy when things are on special and got mine for about $350.00.  The only mod I did to mine was screw off the Nitto output valve and fit an on/off tap in line. I have found that it holds good pressure and is a good compressor. I initially had a problem with the pressure relief valve not sealing when new (under the on /off switch) but a spray with lube sorted that.

David.

I heard about the $350 special, but apparently it hasn't been available at that price for a long time. I got it around that price, and it's been used a total of 10x according to the previous owner. It certainly looks brand new. I honestly felt like I'd stolen the stuff, he would have spent $1,700 or more on these tools! I got them for less than half that. He had a spray gun in there also, but not sure how good it is for spray painting. Might use it for things like the Airbox and spraying epoxy primer to prevent surface rusting panels etc..

2 hours ago, NEW240 said:

Compressor looks good there, at not on the kitchen table.

Hmmm that's what I haven't tried lol.. ;)

I really can't wait to get my own place and have better working space...

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So when I got this basic L24, I was just gonna degrease it and clean it up and see if it runs ok.

But since I went to the effort of re-coring my radiator and since I'll fit a new water pump, I figured I should probably remove the welch plugs and check if anything is in there. Well the photos will speak for themselves, basically there was years of crud built up in there. I used a pressure washer to blast it out and then a screw driver to chip away any loose rust / crud. I pulled all the plugs, the 1 in the rear of the head and block and the 7 in the sides.

This stuff can't help with cooling of the cylinders and I basically blasted it all until no more brown crud came out and it was mostly clear.

I have vapour blasted parts, yellow cad plated parts to go on and dress it up. I am hoping compression is good and it will be a good little "runner" until I can get around to a full proper build for this car. (I've got the E31 head reconditioned so far, but need to do the block still).

I'll need to order some Welch plugs.

I was inspired after watching this Youtuber pull and replace his welch plugs on his Sigma engine ;D Saw all the dust that came out..

 

IMG_20190629_184939.jpg

IMG_20190629_190143.jpg

IMG_20190629_190145.jpg

IMG_20190629_192334.jpg

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Wow must have taken ages to get it all out. Better you are doing it now so your heater core lasts longer.

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It didn't take too long, if I was rebuilding the block I would have sent it off to get an acid bath and would have pulled all the plugs etc.. and that would have been far easier, but since I'm trying to get away with not rebuilding it I spent some time clearing it all out. Now gonna order in new plugs and hope for the best. Cam has slight wear on a couple of lobes but otherwise it spins relatively freely and seems like it's still in good shape.

As you say, hopefully that means I don't clog up radiators / heater cores.

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Some pressure washers have a detergent hose that you can use to run some diluted acid in a bucket. Could be a good option to give that a try with acid and leave it to sit in there and then give it a good wash out with fresh water. 

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Gav,

I find that doing things properly the first time always ends up being cheaper.  If you pull it down and get it dipped the bore should only need a hone.  That's not a lot of money or effort to ensure you don't block your new radiator and heater core.  It will also mean that engine water galleys don't block up and cause hot spots that may force you to strip it down after the damage has been done.

MaygZ

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