The car will be road driven mainly with perhaps the occasional track day once a year or so.

The car is getting built to a modified factory performance so no crazy engine transplants etc.

I want the car to sit nice and low. Most likely be running 15s max 16s and want the springs to be captive.

Looking forward to hearing people's suggestions. Thanks for your time and input. As always this forum is a great wealth of information. 

I am missing the above can I just blank off the hole  Detrimental? 

Or fit a grease nipple?

Or spend a lot and buy repro? Its quite small

Thoughts appreciated.

I searched around the forum for hints and saw this, but wasn't convinced it is my answer.

2) He also said I am "missing a small directional shim for the calipers" I am not 100% sure what that is so I looked it up, I think it's the shim that adjusts the inboard/outboard position of the calipers the disc runs centrally between the pads? Is it this Part # 24-5450? It's current not available as far as my quick google found. I've read a correct-thickness hardened washer (~0.5–1 mm) might work?

Cheers

i just need about 5 cm

Well the time has come that one of my shocks has bleed its oil out into the strut tube, no wonder it was starting to handle a bit funny  

Arizona Z Car use to use HSD shocks with their coil overs and I'm wondering if anyone might know what model/part number they are through HSD. HSD have changed there housings now to a larger size by the looks of it which doesn't help.

Otherwise, does anyone know what other shocks might use 50x2mm housing to save me from having to cut the welded tubes off.

Cheers,

Justin

I'm trying to source an inner tie rod / rack end for my 240z. I've had confirmation that Nissan Japan no longer stock these parts, so I'm interested to see if anyone on the forum has attempted to source one from an aftermarket source. Alternatively, is there anything from another Nissan/Datsun (or other OEM) that serves as a suitable replacement?

Thanks,

Craig

thanks. 

Anyone seen or had any experience with these? 

Does anyone know more about these?

These look to be new as opposed to the 8641-1060 which people have used from the 300zx which need a spacer...

After trying to source springs and struts in Aus, ended up buying the Eibach springs and adjustable Koni's and some other bits from the US. Would be keen to hear thoughts on how they perform if anyone here's tried this combo. 

Cheers

Cheers,

Justin.

A bit over a year and a half ago when I was rebuilding my 260z I installed the alloy bumpsteer correctors to the bottom of the struts. These helped the problem of wider wheels but I still had to change to a tyre with more rounded edges instead of the Hankook Ventus K102 that I had bought at the time. This Ventus style of tyre puts more rubber on the road with it's squarer sides causing the car to track over the bumps and ruts in the road. I finally got fed up, even though it was a minor inconvenience and removed the crossmember over the weekend for redrilling. Leaving the alloy correctors installed, ment I only had to move the control arm mounting hole up 13mm. I also moved it out 4mm for a touch of negative camber. Because I only had to go up 13mm I didn't have to modify the control arm to clear the top of the crossmember. I got a wheel alignment today to correct the toe-in after the operation and couldn't believe the difference. It drives like a sports car should. You can release the steering wheel over a rough surface and the car travels straight. I would recommend this simple alteration to anyone with Bumpsteer problems. All the best to you all for 2007. David.

Making progress on the resto and lovin' it. 

Doing a number of things, but the main item at the moment is sandblasting, stripping and preparing the suspension components for respraying. 

In the process, I've removed the original strut inserts thinking I would simply replace them with KYB's or some other brand of insert that was appropriate. Being the curious type thought I would pull the originals apart and see if perhaps they might be salvageable. While the oil was shot and there was some build up of crud in the internals, it seems the majority of the components (of which there aren't many) aren't in bad shape at all. 

I've had a look through the threads on suspension, but can't see anything specifically relating to this type of rebuild. 

The main issue I found was the crud had blocked the holes on the piston/main valve at the bottom of the shaft and that would have prevented the flow of oil from one part of the unit to the other. Simple enough to clean out once disassembled. And, I think, the reason why the shocks felt stuffed. 

There are 3 seals in the unit - one on the piston/valve, one which sits under the main insert retainer and one inside the retainer itself

The only one I am worried about is the one on the piston/valve (see above on the right) which seems to be made of nylon or something like it. The other two rubber seals seem fine but I can't tell if this one is sealing or not. 

So, a couple of questions:

Has anyone done this repair previously?

Can you buy a kit of seals and if so where can you get it?

Is it worth mucking around or should I just go buy new inserts?

Is there any info available on volumes of oil etc?

In this build I am trying to keep as much original as possible, so if that means a bit of mucking around and getting things working again, that is the way I would prefer to go rather than the buy and replace approach. 

Thanks 

Paul

Suspensions is standard struts, King Spring Lows and Koni reds.  I am thinking that maybe the shock in that corner I inadvertantly twisted and softened the setting (think for memory the reds had 4 stages of adjustment ?), or that the shock needs replacing altogether.

I know I should have the inner guards rolled with the 15 x 8 +0 wheels I have now to reduce the scrubbing risk, but want to fix the knock first so that at least it is not scrubbing at medium speeds.

Am I thinking along the right lines or is a knocking noise indicative of something completely different ?

If so, how did you get old ones out?

Cheers

Jason

Will undo the 4 steering rack bolts tomorrow to make is easier unless anyone else has any suggestions??

Cheers

I just noticed a steering issue with my Z.  Up until recently everything had been had been fine.  But yesterday reversed it out went to full lock (left) and heard a rubbing noise, hopped out and noted the tyre scrubbing on the tension control rod.  It has never done this before so I thought I’d check the other side, and this is where I noted the problem.

Turning left, I can turn the wheel approx 1.5 turns however to the right only 1.25 turns.  Now it is worth noting that when I experimented today, when I drove slowly and started turning, it hung up at 1.25 turns left but then actually pushed past that point without any more force.

I’m thinking there is an issue with the steering rack itself like it’s pushing beyond the stop or something (not even sure if this is possible).  I’m open to any ideas.

ADDITIONAL INFO:

This is a new problem, not previously experienced

Tie rods are equal thread (Well 2mm different, not enough to create this problem)

Wheel alignment is good - caster, camber and toe all similar between left and right.

Cheers

Jason

Height from top of wheel nut studs to strut opening  - angle of strut tower to wheel plane 

Left 213mm - 14.6 degrees

Right 197mm - 13.1 degrees. 

a difference of 16mm / 1.5 degrees

Anyone know what the correct one is / i.e. which one is bent? 

Thought id upload some photos of a little side project I’ve been working on while assembling my Z.
 

Had the idea one day to combine the rear drop down suspension cradle and moustache bar after realising how weak the standard items are and not being a real fan of the agricultural looking aftermarket solutions or the design of the standard moustache bar for that matter. 
 

I looked to the modern WRX’s which also run the r180’s and decided to use the bush out of the mid 2000’s WRX. had some sleeves machined up to suit and build a jig around the standard items. 
 

This is what I came up with in the end. Fully built out of 4130 Chromoly

Excuse the Poor photography. Still yet to press the bushes into the sleeves but you get the picture. 
 

The idea is to use this along with the SWM front diff member and will put the R180 in the later further back position and should significantly increase the rigidity of the suspension mounting points as well as utilise a better way of mounting the diff over the standard design. 
 

let me know what you guys think. 
 

Thanks Matt