Door sits out by about 8mm from  sill and tapers to good fit above swage line

Can't figure out how to pull in bottom of door

Any advice?

Thanks

Nick

Need to make a couple of patch panels , presumably 1 mm and 1.2 are the way to go?

When I measured up some of the parts, they seemed to be only0.7 to 0.8 though

Presumably these are the standard sizes in Oz

Cold Rolled Steel Sheet - Melsteel 

Does anyone know of any documentation that has datum points of reference for measuring "trueness" of a chassis? I am having difficulty with bonnet alignment on my Safari Gold car and I bought a reproduction bonnet - which looks good but I still don't think I can easily get to fit without possibly "tweaking" it.

I'm looking to get a plumb bob and use this to make sure the car is true.

Commercial items:

This one is said to rotate very easily: was sold on this forum a few years ago (Peter Allen)

DIY:

DIY with adjustable point of rotation:

This person used two vertical pipes that are on each end are held by u-bolts through the engine stand. So the car can be raised or lowered to get it to the proper balance point. (car is sideways in the pic) They say "the car is very neutral and can easily be spun with one hand. You can use the pin on the engine stand to hold the car in any orientation. When I go to set it down on it's wheels, I can loosen the u-bolts and slide it down until it is close to the ground".

So, anyone have one for sale? Or any experience building one? I like the idea of one that can be adjusted to find the C of G.  

Cheers, Richard

Fitted doors and have a </>5mm gap to rear quarters and to sill  and swage lines line up (should I fit rubbers and door hardware?)

Do I just work my way round the car and try to achieve an even gap?? I guess all panels have to be bolted up

What kind of gap should there be between scuttle panel and wings also between inspection flaps and wings

Also how to correct a slight taper to front of bonnet/wing one side only

Advice /pictures welcomed

Nick

Is there a bracket that holds the above tube in place and if there is any chance of a picture

Thank you

Nick

Do the rails rust from the inside (not sure how water gets in) or from the outside? 

What / where else would you check a shell, apart from visibly obvious? Datum measurements, maybe, or is that a bit unrealistic. 

Don’t want to spend $10, $15k on a shell then find in first two weeks of owning it’s only good for panels and off cuts.

Cheers, Richard 

Not sure where to fit it. The tray fits quite well above the welded on nuts on the fire wall and above the one on the inner wing.

Ive seen picture where the nuts on the firewall were visible so Im not sure

Any photos would be great

Thanks

Nick

Is it merely a 'cut - trim - shut' requirement? I think the doors are longer and might also have to be trimmed or 240z doors fitted. Just curious.

 https://www.ppg.com/en-US/refinish/support/user-guides-and-manuals/custom-restoration-guide

2 should the plenum chamber be battleship  grey (red paint) or does it depend on top coat

3 tail gate hinge  rubbers and metal retainer painted in position

4 bonnet hinge painted fitted

5 wing bolts painted

Thanks in anticipation

Nick

https://www.facebook.com/carsosofficial/videos/car-sos10-workshop-uncut-opel-manta-e-coating/1408735606240503/

"E-coating, known as KTL in Germany, involves fully immersing the bodyshell in a range of cleaning and phosphating solutions before passing into the 55,000 litre paint tank kept at a controlled 33°C. Once submerged a current of around 400 Volts is passed through the tank causing the paint to uniformly bond to all areas of the shell."

To be honest, I suspect this car may not be salvageable. At best, the front fenders and bonnet maybe ok, but every other exterior panel is too far gone and would need replacing. Agree?

Thanks !! Richard

Would it be viable to repair? additional damage to rear centre 

Nick

Going to be painting my 73 240z in the original factory 918 orange. Just wondering if anyone is across the primer colour and also if the entire underbody stone guard was also painted in orange?

Cheers

Well I promised I would write a tutorial for some of the guys on the forum with regard to my bare metal preperations and application of EP (Epoxy Polyester) primer.

Now I know that many will find this very basic and boring, however the guys who asked for it and many who may read it may not have had the experience of having tackled something like this previously.

I have written it in a way I would have used to explain the process to one of my first year apprentices years ago, very simple step by step instructions and pics.

If anyone finds this useful I will go the next step with application methods and material types followed by surfacing techniques.

Please wait till I load all of the instructions and pics in this thread before adding comments, I will write END OF PART ONE after the last is loaded, then you can all start throwing knives.

Cheers

John

The cost of getting new clips and brackets from USA nearly $400 aud  so having a go at making some

Hope to Tig a bulldog clip to  fabricated bracket, might be a bit of a fiddle to get fitting well??

Any better ideas, brackets or clips greatly appreciated. Photos of original fitment would be great

Nick

My New Years resolution is to finally (after 15 years) get my Blue 240z back on the road and would like to hear your thoughts on what I should do. My car appears to have minimal visible rust, a couple of panel dings and Vinyl roof removed. I understand that there is most likely unseen rust and they can rust from the inside out but after 50 years all of the known rust spots are still solid

After speaking with to a couple of paint and panel shops I am in 2 minds as to whether to just get the repairs done or go down the full restoration route. My concern is that if I go down the full restoration route the Zed wont get used as it would become an investment and not a car to take out and drive.  Most likely I would just take my other unrestored red zed driving instead.

Your feedback would be greatly appreciated

                  Just thought I'd throw up some sort of review on the new? Thailand option fender mirrors. 

Totalling around 375 Aud (  Up to 400 ish with exchange atm) they we a nice in between for me and maybe some others. 

Ebay plastic speed hole  option 125 aud Shipped..  don't do it to yourself.

These newer Thai metal remakes - 400 aud shipped. 

Replica 240z "z garage"           820 aud + shipping

Genuine mirrors + Restoration - Small mortgage. 

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/224875669867

*** Took around a month to produce and ship. 

Surprised how nice well they look +feel. will have some more pictures on the car once it's painted. 

Large Fibreglass Front Air Dam

I nearly bought this one from AZC, it costs $440. I am led to believe that it is a reasonably good fit, however if someone could reflect on the installation that would be very helpful. Contact details are: +61 08 8384 8748 or www.adelaidezcars.com.au or nick@adelaidezcars.com.au

This can also be purchased from The Spoiler Network in Qld for $300 via spoilers@spoilernet.com.au or their website.

It can also be purchased from Fibre Sports in Sydney for $260 via http://www.awcinfo.com/secureshop/category.php?cat_id=64

As it comes in the box:


Installed:



"Kameari style front lip" AKA "Shane in Sale's" Spoiler

This one is for sale from a gentleman called Shane who lives in Sale. His number is 03 51445845 (please correct me if this is out of date).

I'm not sure how much this spoiler costs, PM member Spasmaster or simply call Shane to find out.

Forum member d3c0y is able to have these imported, so an option is to PM him.


Alfa Motorsport Fibreglass Products Front Air Dam Styles

Lurch recommended these guys to me as he has one of their large air dams installed. http://www.motorsportfibreglass.com.au/ alfafg@aussiebroadband.com.au / P: (03) 5678 8874

AMF Large

This one costs $242.00

As it comes:


Installed (couldn't find a better example):


AMF Medium

This one costs $159.50 inc

As it comes:


I think this is one installed on RBZ260s car:


Split Post here due to image limit (continued later on).