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PZG302

The New Toy!!!! - S14 Production Sports Car, 2B Spec

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I would say there aren't too many Martins in Kyogle with a shed load of Nissan bits, so then yes......

 

I hope your not going to tell me horror stories, I found him to be great to deal with and a nice bloke, very different from some others who drive around in S13's and 14's.....

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No he's a friend and a Z32 enthusiast. I have bought tones of stuff of him and have bought over z parts and diffs from Japan in his containers. Absolute legend!

 

 

If anyone wants motors, boxes front cuts or parts from Japan he is your man!

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He did say if there was anything I needed to let him know. After the motor was loaded and we were chatting, I was almost convinced to take him into town to his storage shed to get more bits. The 40 degree temperature stopped that though.....

 

Definitely will be annoying him again for some little bits and bobs in the next few months.

 

And re the Z32's, yes he did admit to the sickness.  ;D

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Well. looks like January is the time of year to get stuff done....

 

I picked up a cheap Chinese rotisserie today and put it together this evening after finishing work.

IMAG01351_zps89878e7c.jpg

 

Tomorrow I will be putting the shell onto the rotisserie and then I can start stripping the underside and wheel well of all the sound deadening to match the interior. Well the interior will need the cold gal spray paint taken off, but will be no problems with a stripping disc and wire wheel.

 

When I get paid my outstanding invoices from November and December it will let me pay myself enough to get 4 litres of KBS stop rust in off white and the associated cleaner and prep wash plus a heap of stripping discs with a few more wire brushes and go to town. I am planning on using the off white for the interior, cage, underside and engine bay.

 

When ready I will have to find someone to throw a coat or two of white over the hanging panels and roof and rear quarters. I will then look at putting green diamonds on in a reverse of the old Zed, but this will also depend on how the sign writing goes. My company logo is a bastard due to the overall length of it and fitting on the side of a car.

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Spent an hour or so today getting the car up onto the rotisserie, so all systems are go.

 

I will be starting the stripping of the underside and wheel wells next weekend, and if it goes as well as expected will also make a start on the engine bay.

 

When finished it will be very white  ;D

 

So here it is in it's new home for a couple of months. It better not hail with the ute having to live outside for a while.

 

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The doors will be coming off before the great strip off.

 

And also some more detailed photos of the cage.....

IMAG0141_zps85522f61.jpg

IMAG0141_zps85522f61.jpg

IMAG0140_zps8fb0ac4c.jpg

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Yep, done that.

 

Most will come back off when I run the wire wheel/sand paper over the cage to get rid of the surface rust before I paint it with the KBS.

 

Next photos should show it all shiny and then white.

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Well a bit of progress for the weekend.

 

Saturday I picked up a new seat and side mounts, a OMP HTE XL, made for fat people like me and I fit in it very well. Also picked up a window net kit made for the Porsche Cup cars, it is a very elegant solution that doesn't need any welding to the cage, plus a couple of tow straps to use rather than the old type solid tow hooks.

 

Also looks like I have a reliable source of tyres for the new car as I ended up spending about an hour and half at the race shop talking to a couple of Porsche GT3 cup racers, and the Pirelli fronts they use are the same size I used on the Zed, so hopefully in the next couple of months I will start to have a stream of tyres lobbing at my place. At the price I pay I can afford to use a set a meeting and then throw them away, so very happy about that.

 

I also stopped in at Option 1 to see how Paul was going with his S15 and we are at about the same stage in our builds. I got some good ideas for how to mount the seat looking at the various cars in the shop and it also looks like my rear cradle will be modified and the alloy uprights plus all the suspension, bar coil overs, will be ready in the next month or so.

 

Today, I would say the neighbours weren't all that happy with me. Four hours with the grinder and 5 flapper wheels later the underside of the shell looks like this.....

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That'a all I could get off the bottom with the car in that position using the grinder. I have about another 4-6 hours work to finish off the bits the grinder couldn't get and to finish the wheels wells off and the engine bay.

 

I should be picking up the rust coat paint this week so as soon as the underside and engine bay is done, that will be painted and then it will be time to move onto the inside.

 

I do miss the old cars of the '70's, the two Zeds and the 180B SSS I did this to previously were bitumen coated so a heat gun and scraper was all that was needed and the stuff fell off in big chunks that were put into a bucket. The S14 has what looks like bog under the stoneguard paint and it varies in thickness from a few mm to around 10mm in places. The garage is covered in dust and will stay that way until I'm finished the underside and before painting.

IMAG0150_zps6661808e.jpg

 

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Well, an estimated 25 odd hours of grinding and the shell was clean on the outside of any sound deadener, well about 98% of it anyways, there is always some you can't get to..... I'm sure the neighbours loved the last few weekends when the grinder and drill were going constantly for 6 or so hours and then a few afternoons here and there for a couple of hours.

 

Anyway the underside and engine bay is now white. I have replaced the sound deadening and the paint under the car and in the engine bay with KBS Rust Seal in off white.

 

The before after gurneying the shell clean and wiping down with prepsol it was time to start painting.

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I used brushes to paint on as I am doing this in suburbia, and I also don't have a compressor or the suitable facilities to spray paint. This stuff is suitable for brushing on, and the finish is pretty good if you have some patience and plenty of brushes to throw away.

 

I am not after a standard of finish suitable for show cars, a 20 foot paint job is god enough for what I want on the underside, in the wheel wells and the engine bay for it to do its job, which is basically to protect the body from the shit and crap that will be thrown up by tyres and and other cars on the track. It can be hosed down and will look just as good as when it went on.

 

Then engine bay after two coats.

IMAG01861_zps709a3838.jpg

 

Coverage is pretty good over the black where all I did was scuff the paint with some 320 paper to key the surface for the KBS to stick to it.

 

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The underside. I left a bit out as it is up behind the fuel tank and won't get hit with crap, the original paint was in as good condition as when it left the factory.

 

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Rear wheel well all nice and white.

 

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And finally, the fron wheel well, again all nice and white.

 

I was looking at doing the interior and cage in the KBS as well, but with the finsh that is possible and the style of paint, I will get the inside and cage sprayed in conventional automotive paint and just do the floor in the KBS where the finish isn't as important as being a hard wearing surface is, no girly carpet for me in this car....  ;D

 

Now just waiting on some others to get the bits needed for the rear suspension and the front suspension arms. All will be adjustable and rose jointed, thanks to the great aftermarket support for the S chassis, very cheap too when compared to other cars. I will also end up with GTR alloy rear uprights and the rear cradle braced and strengthened before bolted in with solid bushes.

 

I also picked up a S15 SR20 complete with gear box for a great price, the only bits that didn't come with the deal was the starter motor and engine harness, which isn't needed anyway and the starters are cheap enough and plentiful second hand to grab one when I need it. The 6 speed box is sold already, so some dollars will be coming back to the build. I now have plenty of bits to choose from for the engine build and starting to get a small bank of spare parts building up.

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The KBS is also stubborn to get off skin, looks like my hands will be a nice shade of dirty white for most of the week.

 

I was hoping on having the car running in September, but I may have my current contract finish up in May, so if I can't find work quickly, I might have to put a hols on the car until I find another long term contract.

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...so if I can't find work quickly, I might have to put a hols on the car until I find another long term contract.

 

Painting contractor?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

:P

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A little bit of progress to report, but no pics.

 

I had some dollars squirreled away for the rear end to be set up in the new year but as per usual the workshop I have chosen had a bit on and the job got pushed back a bit, and as a result the scope blew out a bit to do the job once and right and get some extras.

 

Basically the rear sub-frame is off at Option One up here in Brisbane for the following to done:

 

* Braced and welded where required for strengthening

* R32 alloy uprights fitted for the rear

* All suspension arm replaced with rose jointed adjustable arms

* Standard VLSD replaced with 4.3 and new KAAZ 2 way LSD centre

* My existing R33 GTR rear brakes fitted up to make sure it all fits as it should

* Solid bushes and mounts to bolt back onto the shell

 

At the same time I am getting all the front suspension replaced with rose jointed adjustable arms so I can get the shell off the rotisserie soon so the ute can fit back in the garage.

 

I will be throwing a set of standard struts in the car to get it rolling again until I can get a fistfull of cash together to see MCA and get myself a set of these......

http://mcasuspension.com/red-series/

 

I am still trawling the usual sites for mechanical bits to get a stock of motor and turbos going before I built, so I need to clean out the rest of the L series stuff I have to make some room.

 

I will have to fit the fuel tank back into the car and run the fuel lines and brake lines before the rear cradle goes back in so I will be looking at getting some new tube for both the brake and fuel lines and a flaring tool for the brake lines. Again, might as well do the car once and right. As the fuel tank goes in I will see what I can do for the standard pick up and look at making it sit in one central spot to fill a surge tank so I can foam fill the tank. Even though the tank sits up under the car and it would need a huge hit to get to I still want to protect myself after one big hit in the Zed where the fuel tank was ripped out of the car.

 

I am also looking at a pretty good deal on some very lightweight panels and more will be revealed in due course, but at the moment going through the slow process of sourcing some sacrificial panels and getting molds made up to suit bonnet, boot and guards. If they come out like I hope then I won't have to paint the hanging panels.

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And I'm now in trouble, too many cars not enough space.

 

I just bought this as a donor car......

attachment.php?attachmentid=73392&d=1396944805&thumb=1

 

It will supply all the fiddly bits I need for the race car and some bits to sell off like interior and brakes/suspension. Also gives me a spare engine and gearbox to tuck away under the house.

 

I will also have a full set of panels to use as molds for the ones I'm getting made up and a couple of extra to sell to get some dollars back on the purchase.

 

Hopefully it will arrive in the week after easter, just getting quotes on shipping it up from the mid north coast of NSW.

 

The price? A couple of hundred more than a front cut or wreck from Pickles, even when the cost of shipping is taken into account.

 

So once the rear cradle is finished I will be able to get the shell off the rotisserie and back to a roller.

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Well, the new purchase arrived today and is at home at the top of the driveway, I may get yelled at later for making the place look like a used car lot.

 

IMAG0204_zpsa43aa068.jpg

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It arrived with a flat battery, but a jump start got it going. It is about what I expected, a little rougher in some areas and a little better in others. The interior is pretty much spoken for and I will be using the drive train, but selling off the brakes, standard S14, and suspension, preferably with the shell once I have stripped out what I need like windscreen wipers & motor, plastic scuttle, lights, bars FMIC and so on. I will also keep the doors to give me spares and the doors on the shell can be used to see how much weight can be taken out whilst still keeping enough of the inner panel for the power window mechanisms and motor to still work.

 

Also a couple of bonuses, it is a high spec 96 model with ABS, so the ABS sensors maybe useful for the Motec. I may run ABS for the brakes, but more than likely won't bother

 

I also had a good chat to the engine builder and we are still working out what spec for what dollars for the engine and associated management. Basically will be running Motec for ECU and logging through dash. Will also be setting up some niceties like Traction control and launch control plus pit lane limiter.

 

Still working out what to do with the final motor spec as the rules limit me to what I can do and what will give me the best bang for buck for the overall life and use of the engine, not just the build cost.

 

So it could be one of:

     

      1.  Naturally aspirated big bore stroker.

      2. Naturally aspirated screamer ~9500

      3. Turboed big bore stroker running on E85

      4. Turboed standard bore/stroke big boost on E85

      5. Turboed standard bore/stroke not as  big boost on 98

 

Once the numbers are crunched we can start planning, but at this stage probably leaning towards option 4, but with having to use the standard T28 and manifolds will be challenging. Well the manifold and turbo restrictions will make any build challenging to get good power and torque, longevity, reliability and cost effective. I know I will have to spend a bit more on the right bits for the reliability and longevity, which will then pay for themselves.

 

Timing is looking good to get the car to rolling shell stage in the next 3-4 months. I finish up with my current contract on Friday and look to be starting a 3 month contract in Indonesia on June 1 that has me doing about 45-50 days work until the beginning of September so a couple of weeks in Jakarta and a week or so home.

 

As I now have a few more fun tickets stacked up, the budget is creeping. However, if I threw a standard motor and computer in the shell I would still be on track to get the car running for $15k.

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I trust you will be using and installing the fart cannon at an angle? Unless its not a serious race car... ;)

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Not those tail lights, but will be keeping all other lights. Already have a couple of sets of lights sitting in the garage.

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Option 4 with a ball bearing T28 from an S15, hi-flow core and E85 would make a very handy track car!

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A little update,

 

Whilst waiting for the next contract to kick off, hopefully will know this week that I will be travelling to and from Indonesia for 40 days over the next 3 months, I pulled the interior out of the donor car ready for sale and just need to get the dash out without cutting wiring so the car will still start and drive up and down the driveway until I'm ready to pull the drivetrain.

 

I also got this back.....

IMAG0274_zps8d4bdca1.jpg

 

My rear cradle has been reinforced, fited with alloy GTR uprights, my old hubs which I need to pull out again to paint to match the rest, R33 GTR rear calipers and adjustable KKR suspension arms with rose joints and solid bushes for both the subframe and diff.

 

IMAG0275_zps6ea97cc0.jpg

 

IMAG0276_zpsf7d70ac6.jpg

 

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I have some 5 bolt drive shafts from a GTR to be fitted and am now just waiting on finding a diff, will be getting a clutch type LSD 4.3:1 when one turns up on the interwebs either here or Japan. A good second hand diff will save me around $1000 on building a new diff, and as I'm not in too much of a hurry, it doesn't matter if it takes a while to find one.

 

Once the rear cradle and diff goes in I can get the shell back to a roller and sell off the rotisserie and start putting the car together and getting the motor done.

 

 

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It just struck me, a S chassis car is a 'sports car'? More like a two door sedan I would have thought, like the BMW equivalent for example. Anyway, good luck with the project, the S chassis is certainly a proven competition winner. A flat brim drift favourite too  ;)

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It's on the prodsports list and the S14 and S15 are homologated as production sports cars thanks to GTP Nations Cup here in Australia and IIRC they are also FIA homologated for GT racing as well.

 

The main reason for the choice was cheapness, I can build the car a lot cheaper using high quality bits and fabricators, engine builders etc than I can with say a Z33 as the aftermarket support is there in spades for the S chassis and the SR20, plus the bits are cheap as chips if you are prepared to wait, and buy the right model. For example S14 front bits, lights and panels are about a thirs of the price of S14A bits.

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I'm sure it's legal if you are doing it Matt, rules  ;)  Agree with your reasons for picking the S chassis too, it's a pity that Nissan did not use it for the Z car instead of creating the luxo 350Z lump. You do realise that the pressure will be on you don't you, lots of great times for the S out there to be compared against.

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