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navanskyine

l28 turbo

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yep T2s are for 1600cc engines and on a 2.8 will cause detonation and lots of heat in the exhaust port, you need a gt30 or bigger for a good set up the Borg 700 hp on my last engine was on at 2700 and went all the way to 8000 rpm. to small is worse than to big and very hard to get the tune even close to right

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I'm running an N/A F54/P90 combo that has unknown milage (already installed in the car when I bought it), that I added the 280ZX exhaust manifold, Cam cover (Only makes sense, right? :D ), F47 (IIRC) intake mani, since the car was carbed when I bought it, a Borg Warner turbo from a 6.5L turbo Diesel, and Delco (General Motors) EFI to, using an N/A 280Z (NOT ZXT) dizzy, and I've ran as much as 14 PSIG non intercooled, but backed it down to 9 PSI until I added the IC, at which point I turned the boost up to 15 PSIG, running on 91 octane fuel that can contain "up to 10% ethanol" (Damn Canadian fuel). I abised it for about 3 years non intercooled, then abused it for a little over a year intercooled. I also added DIS before adding the IC, using a custom trigger wheel set-up and GM coil pack.

 

You don't need to use a turbo engine, the N/A version will take boost just fine, especially with the advances of modern EFI.

 

If you want more specifics, they are in my build thread in the members section.

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I'm gathering the parts for an L28 spinner at the moment, F54 block, N42 with larger exhaust valves, 280zx turbo manifold, after-market EFI etc. When you look at building a turbo the L series lend nicely to boost as they come with a low comp anyway. Further tweaking with choice of pistons and gasket is all you need. Sure there is RB and SR power, but to me the L series was a big part of what made the Zed so good - so having the L with turbo push seems the best of both.

 

SR weight advantage is tempting though!

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but the rb30 im looking at would be good to :)

 

dat2kman ill have to bring it up to u so u can have a check for me maybe we can work out what u have there and boost this sucker up

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I'd be interested in fixing up the L20.

 

The S30 chassis is 40 years old, light and not the strongest. To sure the car up properly you may need chassis extensions, sill strenthening, cross-members/strut-bars... the list goes on http://alteredz.com/structuralmods.htm

 

If your after 300atw (a nice number) there's every chance a well sorted L28 turbo will turn that lovely 240 into spagetti! Maybe a smaller L20 turbo would be more suitable for a car that is so light it'll go like stink anyway??

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Navanskyine, pm me your contact details,

I can give you a call to go over a few things.

I have kept track of a few L6 turbo engines in Australia and know quite a few details you might need to know.

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dunno, plenty of nice lite weight early shell 240's have been raced over many years with some pretty decent engines in them. Anyone ever seen the sills and the sframes ripped out in normal road use, or race use?/

I'd warrant not!

 

Bit of seam welding/stitch welding wouldnt go astray, and a bit of extra gussets under the guard where the inner fender meets the outer firewall area, bit of triangulation bracing here and there, more for stopping the big huge unsupported box of an engine bay from twisting around, and the front corners from lifting independant of the other front corner, ala a drag car, and they have triple the power!

 

Stop scaring people, Ben, just DO IT!

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Good to hear your thoughts Jason, if the chassis can handle it all well and good.

 

I might be going for a n/a stroker but the extra cost and time of getting it right will be increased, plus I need to find the rare LD crank!

 

If I do... my intercooler, piping, turbo and manni will be up for grabs. Also have a series one HKS plenum - rocking horse shiver!

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it will probably work just not well.... enough to get it running anyway!! one of the main problems i can thing of is it will only fiel for a 2L not a 2.8

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so ive bolted this turbo and stuff to my l28 as most would know

the turbo kit was from a 2.ltr so the ecu wouldnt work in my 2.8 yeh ?

 

You should have bought my RB30 turboand you wouldnt have this problem !!!!!!

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I had an L20 which I sold to Mick zzzzed, he offloaded it to a guy in SA who has done a lot of work to it and really got the old rice cooker up and going.

 

Ask Mick for the link to the guys thread and vid's think you may be suprised by what you can achieve with the L20 induction system

 

Cheers

 

John

 

P.S. The L20 wasnt to bad once it spooled up but you really had to keep it at a certian range when driving to get any real joy out of it.

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so just keep it on stock boost till i put my micro tech in it

run like 5 psi ?

i bought  a micro tech for it but they have shut down for xmas :( cant get it and the car will be done tomorrow

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so just keep it on stock boost till i put my micro tech in it

run like 5 psi ?

i bought  a micro tech for it but they have shut down for xmas :( cant get it and the car will be done tomorrow

 

 

would be best to just run it as is with standard boost and wait for the mictotech before you start boosting!!

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IMHO you shouldn't drive it even if you get the L20AET ECU working on the L28ET. The injectors are way too small, and you'll likely blow it up the first time you give it the beans.

 

Heck, I lunched my head gasket because my fuel pump was too small - it was ok at 8psi, but not 10...

(I didn't hear any detonation, but it turns out that there was zero fuel returning to the tank)

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That's an L20 with Delco electronics. Antus got a hold of me when they first started that project, for some guidance on how I did mine.

 

The OP has an L28 with L20 parts.

 

If it was my car, I'd likely fire it on the L20 ECU, if it was there, but wouldn't drive it until it was tuned, or swapped to a different ECM, that I was able to tune.

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