l28 turbo

[navanskyine]

hey guys i found a l28 turbo engine compelte whats the going price on one of these ?

 

It comes with:

Wiring loom, computer, air flow meter & high pressure fuel pump.

T2 turbo for heaps low down power

[.]

The fact that it is turbo doesn't really increase the price much. The engine is probably worth $500, plus the price of the turbo, manifolds, and ECU. Unless they can proove it is all in A1 condition I'd say $1000-$1500

[navanskyine]

he just hasnt set the price yet were just talking about it so yeh thanks man

[Ben]

Are you sure it's an L28ET & not an L20AET?

 

The former is pretty rare in Aus, the latter is still rare, but not as much so.

[Scando]

It's going back a few years but I got quoted $2,500 from a place that imports them from the US.  I thought it seemed a bit steep at the time.  I reckon Galderdi is on the money.  Anything over $1,500 and you're better off starting with an n/a L28 and buying manifolds, etc.  If you want decent performance then you'll end up not using a lot of the standard parts anyway, turbo, computer, etc.  The Turbo Dizzy is worth getting hold as it gives you the trigger signals you need to hook up an aftermarket computer.  Also has a P90 head, high volume oil pump, F54 block, and probably a few other bits that will be handy if you want to build an engine to make decent power.

 

I'd actually prefer the higher comp n/a engine to start with, they will happily take 10psi on 98 fuel and be much more responsive.

 

If it's got a T2 turbo then Ben might be on the money about it being an L20A.  Pretty sure the L28 turbos came with T3's.

[navanskyine]

ok i just got a email from him its a j spec engine what ever that means p90 head f54 block

 

now i allready have that setup in my car but n/a 

 

his asking 4k for it ?  worth it 

its not much power plus 4k i could get a rb25 full setup

[.]

It could be worth it if he can prove a recent quality rebuild. Other than that tell him he's dreaming.

[navanskyine]

yeh u can pick up a rb25 and gear boxx for 3k well i can  like i offered him 2k

it hasnt been going for like 2 years so hmmm

 

its a z car shop to

[53-681]

I recall Peter MC saying a turbo L28 that he'd make would cost me around $11,000 inc labour 

[dat2kman]

Hmmm i'm curious, which is the Z car shop you are talking about. Some of us know who is reputable, and will sell things reasonably ok, but as is usual, it is buyer beware. For price indicated, hook up a starter motor and do comp checks, and some sort of document saying if on install you find it is rootard, you have recourse

Engine details suggest a L28 rather than L20A

 

Always thought one of the L28 turbo engines in a s130 2 seatwr, stripped and ligjtened, would make an interesting tarmac rally car, in unmodified class, or bare mods classes?

It would not be accepted in a s30 body, as none were turbo from factory.

[Scando]

Yep, too much I'd say.  Remember, whichever engine you choose, buying the engine is only a small part of the conversion cost.

 

I've often had the same idea about an S130 2 seater turbo.  Hardest part would be the computer.  You would most likely have to mod the standard computer like you've done on the 280Z.

[luvemfast]

hmmmmmm......... Turbo 280ZX in standard class................

[PZG302]

Yep, too much I'd say.  Remember, whichever engine you choose, buying the engine is only a small part of the conversion cost.

 

I've often had the same idea about an S130 2 seater turbo.  Hardest part would be the computer.  You would most likely have to mod the standard computer like you've done on the 280Z.

 

Or even cheaper and quicker, buy an S13 or 14/15 with more than enough change out of $10k to put decent suspension and some go fast bits in it if it hasn't already got it done.

 

And easier, and more fun and you can run in a bigger range of classes if you step up to full racing, eg S13 IPRA, S14 IPRA or prod Sports, and be competitive for not a lot.

[luvemfast]

Or even cheaper and quicker, buy an S13 or 14/15 with more than enough change out of $10k to put decent suspension and some go fast bits in it if it hasn't already got it done.

 

And easier, and more fun and you can run in a bigger range of classes if you step up to full racing, eg S13 IPRA, S14 IPRA or prod Sports, and be competitive for not a lot.

But not nearly as much style though 

[dat2kman]

Turbo 280ZX has a double PCB ECU, the non turbo just has a single circuit board.

Turbos also had bigger injectors.

As a Tarmac rally car, you are given freedoms in brakes, for safety, not like in Historic Prod Sports circuit racing, and you can run an aftermarket ECU, not like in Hysteric prod sports.

 

If you really wanted to stick to stock Turbo twin board ECU, you would need to run bigger injectors, run an interuptor piggy back ecu from dizzy to stock ecu, also run an interruptor from the air temp sensor, the water temp sensor, and the low speed idle part of the circuitry from the AFM, if you were to run a more aggressive camshaft. the turbo housings A/R ratios could be changed, and exhaust is free from the first join after the cylinder head, ie dump pipe back

This is all for Tarmac rally use, ie Targa Tas, Highh Country, Targa WA and Classic Adelaide.

 

You cannot use a 280ZX in Historic prod Sports, as the cutoff year is the end of 1976.

This is why the USA Spec 280Z gets into Historics ( same as a 260Z shell,) it has to run the stock engine as in a Aussie 280ZX, a heavy r200, and stock interior, as well as stock brakes, mine weighs in at 1125 kgs, and she rocks and rolls like a pig, compared to my Datsun Sports 2000, at 810 kgs!

[navanskyine]

ok well would i get away with bolting one to my current engine and keeping it stock wont hurt the engine ?

[.]

I suggest buying a compression tester and using it on your current engine, then post the figures here and someone will be able to indicate whether your engine compression is suitable for more boost. If it is a truely stock L28 straight from a 280zx then it possibly has dished pistons and low compresssion. But most previous owners swap out the dished pistons and replace them with flat tops so there are no garuntees.

 

Obviously we can't predict the reliability of the rest of the engine as that depends on numerous components and previous mods.

 

Another thing to consider is the need for another ECU and associated sensors etc as the standard ECU will not cope. Do you already have an after market ECU?

[dat2kman]

yes, been done plenty times, but lowish boost pressure only, say tops 12 to 14 psi. If yours is a p90 head, these have a bigger comb chamber, that combined with dished pistons, gives a low compression ratio, lower the ratio the more boost it will take

What is the block/head combo you have?, and? are pistons flat top or dished?

 

you could use a stock injection manifold, with bigger injectors, a aftermarket ecu, ( BTW I have a brand new Autronic SM4 for sale!!!) hardest part is a turbo exhaust manifold, the stock cast iron ones are getting old, and can crack, better off geting one made up out of decentr thick wall steam pipe, 12 mm thick flanges, with brace supports to turbo, use longer studs at head, a block to underside of turbo manifold support would be an idea, bit of piping, a intercooler from say a 2J supra, ( surprise surprise, i have a couple here for sale too ), or a big kick arse front mount ( guess what, one of them here as well), and say a nice little GT28 roller turbo, ( and you guessed,it, one of these is here for sale as well !!! )

 

Umm, you do keep changing your mind about things, remember when you were here, I sugested a SR20DET package?? What about that, easy, simple cheap, balances the car, the purists will shudder.

 

Dont forget, I'm interested in your old gearbox!!

[Scando]

Turbo 280ZX has a double PCB ECU, the non turbo just has a single circuit board.

Turbos also had bigger injectors.

As a Tarmac rally car, you are given freedoms in brakes, for safety, not like in Historic Prod Sports circuit racing, and you can run an aftermarket ECU, not like in Hysteric prod sports.

 

If you really wanted to stick to stock Turbo twin board ECU, you would need to run bigger injectors, run an interuptor piggy back ecu from dizzy to stock ecu, also run an interruptor from the air temp sensor, the water temp sensor, and the low speed idle part of the circuitry from the AFM, if you were to run a more aggressive camshaft. the turbo housings A/R ratios could be changed, and exhaust is free from the first join after the cylinder head, ie dump pipe back

This is all for Tarmac rally use, ie Targa Tas, Highh Country, Targa WA and Classic Adelaide.

 

You cannot use a 280ZX in Historic prod Sports, as the cutoff year is the end of 1976.

This is why the USA Spec 280Z gets into Historics ( same as a 260Z shell,) it has to run the stock engine as in a Aussie 280ZX, a heavy r200, and stock interior, as well as stock brakes, mine weighs in at 1125 kgs, and she rocks and rolls like a pig, compared to my Datsun Sports 2000, at 810 kgs!

 

When I looked at it, I remeber it saying the ECU must be "from the period".  So that pretty much limits you to the stock ECU or maybe there were some very early Haltech's, etc about then?

 

There were also a lot more freedoms with fibreglass panels, intercooler, turbo, injectors, etc if the car was built in 1981 or before.  I think the first 280ZX Turbo was built in 1982?  I know they've changed the classes for the new historic tarmac rally championship class so it's probably all changed since I looked at it.

 

 

Anyway, back to the subject sorry navanskyline.  As the others have commented, it sounds like your engine has had a bit of work done so I'm guessing it has had the head shaved and/or flat top pistons.  If this is the case then your compression ratio will be too high.

 

Better to sell your engine and get an n/a engine from a 280ZX.  It will have a comp ratio of 8.2:1 and happily take around 10psi on 98 fuel.  With decent manifolds, exhaust, computer, throttle body, intercooler, turbo, injectors, fuel pumps, etc, etc, you should be able to make close to 200rwkw on standard internals with good reliability.

 

Unless you can do pretty much all of the work yourself then it will cost you a small fortune.

[navanskyine]

its a p90 head with f54 block so yeh i dont know about pistons

 

 

um i think ill just pick up this full rb30 setup for now hehe

[.]

+1 for the SR20DET they go real hard in a S30.....not sure about the torque for an S130 though.

[dat2kman]

p90, tick

f54 strong rigid block, tick

unscrew spark plug, stick in thin flat blade screwdrivwer, feel around back side of piston, ( make sure pistion is close to top-- may have to take all plugs out to find one,,,, or turn motor over--- dont leave screwdriver in thought!)

If you can feel a bit of a slight ridge, and a dip, presto dished pistons, only 7cc mind!

 

S30 shell is lighteter than S13 Silvia, so no probs with torque, but if you want torque, just buy an off the shlf 2.2 storker kit!! stick on a disco Tato, and go have fun!

[zedevan]

i personally dont see the point in sticking an sr20 in a zed when silvia's/180's are so cheap, and seems like a waste of all that engine bay space

[dat2kman]

i personally dont see the point in sticking an sr20 in a zed when silvia's/180's are so cheap, and seems like a waste of all that engine bay space

More bang for buck

Just buy performance stuff off shelf and bolt on

Better weight distrubution

Chaep turbo fix

Plenty room for kickarse intercooler and radiator, set back

Perfect track weapon'

Rb conversipns are now so passe'!

 

[Ben]

ok i just got a email from him its a j spec engine what ever that means p90 head f54 block

 

now i allready have that setup in my car but n/a 

 

his asking 4k for it ?  worth it 

its not much power plus 4k i could get a rb25 full setup

 

Damn you guys posted with haste to this thread!

 

There is no such thing as a JDM L28ET - they were USDM only.

 

Get photo's of the engine number, block casting, head casting and what kind of triggering system is in use.

The early turbo's had a N42/N42 or N42/P79 with crank trigger and empty distributor (no electronics). The 'S2' turbo had the F54/P90/optical distributor setup.

 

If this donk is an L28ET and ex-Japan, then chances are its from a USDM imported 280ZXT. The JDM Fairlady 280ZX Turbo ran the L20AET.

 

A T2 would be very average, sure it might spool up quick, but with a 2.8 it would run out of puff at 4000rpm (if that). T2 is Pulsar ET turbo (E15T) size, or about the same as a single from a 1G-GTE twin-turbo...

 

My old N42/N42 L28ET ran a VG30ET T3 with a T4 compressor and over-bored turbine housing - low-rpm boost wasn't an issue. I would almost wager that it spooled quicker than a stock RB25DET does.