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Scoota G

R31 Skyline rear disc conversion

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Hey i was just thinking maybe Lurch and i could do this conversion with me doing the work and the Big Fella providing the instructions

 

I have already modified the brackets and had the centres machined to 86mm

post-762-144023618075_thumb.jpg

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Pending on Lurch's conformation i'll say we could do the entire conversion including the handbrake mod, but from what i see it looks like a very simple conversion.

 

Hmmm maybe i shoud have pm'd Locky first.

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I would love to see a tutorial, as you say it looks straight forward but it always helps to have someone show you how and save you having to find out the hard way :). My rear drums are in a bit of a sad state and I think I'm going to do this conversion (since adjusting drums is a P.I.T.A). Looking forward to it anyway.

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Make sure you put a seal kit and rubber grease through them - otherwise the slides will stick.

(also check the slide pins for straightness as they have been known to be bent...)

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I've been looking at a lot of conversions and just wondering why most conversions the calipers are mounted towards the front of the vehicle?

 

Anyone?

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I've noticed the same thing Mark, although I think I saw one where it was mounted at 12 oclock, maybe it was the best position for the handbrake mod?

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Dimitri where are you?

 

Believe its for best orientation of the handbrake cable.

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Im sure it's due to the length of the handbrake cable but if you could choose a position where would you put it. It would depend on the way the suspension travels under braking and load etc. Very interesting stuff.

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Im sure it's due to the length of the handbrake cable but if you could choose a position where would you put it. It would depend on the way the suspension travels under braking and load etc. Very interesting stuff.

I'd like to have it on the same angle as the front calipers but i think it would hit the rear strut.

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My rear disc set up is R31 and caliper is at 12 o'clock position, i didn't do the conversion but i do believe it has to do with handbrake cable.

 

John

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When the caliper is mounted at the 12 o'clock posi, it's much easier to hook up the handbrake cable but with it mounted at the front, I have managed to connect the cable without many issues. Just have to make a small bracket to mount the original brake cable outer at 90' to its original place where it bolts onto then make a small metal linkage to connect the cable to the hand brake arm on the caliper. If you mount the caliper towards the back, as said it fouls the strut tube. I prefer the caliper towards the front but main issue is when it comes time to bleed the brake system, you have to remove the caliper along with the disc and bleed it off the car so the nipple is the highest point. I should take detailed pics to show..

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Don't stress about it Mark - I have it all sorted... ;)

 

Mark & I shall be doing this conversion in a couple of weeks. A tutorial will then be posted - stay tuned!

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Any chance of making a extra set of brackets for the handbrake mod? ;)

You can use the standard brackets and just cut them down. I'll take a picture.

 

On the same topic i put new kits in the rears and a Brand new 1 inch Master Cylinder but i still only have half a pedal. The Nipples *giggles* are on the bottom on the R31's and i suspect that the air is not getting out. With the old 7/8 it would pump up good but then lose all pressure.

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Hey guys,

I was under the impression that the position of the calipers would affect the balance of the car (brake bias) under braking. Therefore is there some way of determining the ideal position of the caliper from a braking perspective as opposed to a ideal handbrake cable perspective?

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When I installed my disc setup, I never really found a good spot for the calipers to sit so they can be bled without removal. I just bolted them on facing the front of the car and settled for bleeding off the car with the disc removed and placed again in the caliper only to to keep the pads apart. (Right hand caliper is on the left hand side and the Left hand caliper is on the right.) Then when you're done, re install it all. how often do you have to bleed the brakes anyway? Haven't touched mine since installation a couple of years ago. I will be removing my wheels soon so I'll take a good few pics of the handbrake setup on my zed.

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how often do you have to bleed the brakes anyway?

hmmm how about after every second or third race meeting - that is what we do ;) but then we don't run the R31 setup on the rear either :(

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hmmm how about after every second or third race meeting - that is what we do ;) but then we don't run the R31 setup on the rear either :(

 

As Mike said...... but for me before every meeting just to make sure, as it sits around doing nothing between race meetings.

 

I would have thought that getting the bleed nipples to the highest point would be at the top of the list for fitting to make sure the system could bleed. Not having to run a handbrake, this does make any rear conversion easy for me, though the saab rotors and 2 pot calipers on the rear were pretty close to a bolt on, but no handbrake to worry about.

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My 240 isn't a serious track car, just a weekend hack! My car sits for weeks sometimes with no use but the pedal is always firm and the brakes never have an issue. If I were to make a custom bracket, then the bleed nipple could be placed in the ultimate spot but I have to make do with what I have...a PITA every time I have to bleed the rear brakes..

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On the same topic i put new kits in the rears and a Brand new 1 inch Master Cylinder but i still only have half a pedal. The Nipples *giggles* are on the bottom on the R31's and i suspect that the air is not getting out. With the old 7/8 it would pump up good but then lose all pressure.

 

Wish someone would have said " maybe it's the adjustment on the pedal in the cabin" problem solved :)

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Bump.

 

Is the writeup done yet?

Im pretty keen to see how to solve the handbrake issue so i can copy it onto mine.

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