Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
ZD44TT

Light Weight 240z?

Recommended Posts

Standard ECU, eh? It's an L28 with factory injection?

In that case, some easy mods will lift the power considerably.

Change the injectors to VL turbo Commodore, fit right in and good for 250cc vs 205cc.

Replace the throttle body with one from a VN/VP Commodore, this requires an adaptor but any reasonable machine shop can do that as it's pretty basic. Use the VN/VP throttle position sensor (in fact use as much GM sensor stuff as you can, less headaches getting things calibrated).

Toss the AFM, you want to be using MAP with a replacement ECU anyway, something decent (and digital), I've used Megasquirt with good results.

Install a wideband EGO sensor and btw I couldn't find enough difference in stock exhaust manifold vs extractors on a motor this mild to bother paying for extractors.

Duct from the throttle body to an enclosed type air cleaner, R31 Skyline is pretty easy to adapt, then set up its inlet to pull air from ahead of the radiator (over top of the radiator support panel works well).

If you have one, install an 'A' cam from an early 240Z.

It takes some work but about 160RWHP without being a cantankerous bitch to drive makes it all worth while, particularly in a light 240Z.

 

A lightening trick I've seen is to decide on what bits will rarely if ever have to be taken out / separated etc and use aluminium pop rivets to hold them together! The same team was using aluminium bolts / screws etc for securing front fenders on, headlights in, in fact anything they thought they could get away with!

Never gone that far myself but it's worth considering.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Go on a diet...  10kg is easy enough with a bit of motiovation

Maybe for you...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

:-X ;D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

has anyone weighed the difference between the L series box and the s/13/14/15 box? Thought the newer S boxes might be lighter but probably not as they are mostly made from the same material, they may even be heavier...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
but you cant exactly remove it..  hehe just jokin

Depending on what sort of track you are racing and what torque your putting out, you might not need all the gears. Might even be able to do with just 2nd to 4th. ;D

 

Now I am just talking garbage, don't listen to me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

4th is straight through anyway isn't it??? If so ditch the gear box and connect a drive shaft to the crank  ;D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Now we just need to work out a way to eliminate the diff.....I'm thinking some sort of belt arrangement.

 

Then there's the suspension. Maybe a few tenis balls in some conduit.

 

Steering = a couple of cords run down to the front wheels

 

We'll have this car down to 100KG before you know it :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

you could cut the floor out under the seats

you dont need them and you can chuck your rubbish straight on the road no one will know it was you

plus getting rid of rubbish will keep car lighter

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

if you make a hole in the seat to go with the floor hole, it serves two purposes:

 

When you crap yourself coming into that corner way too hot, it doesn't stink out the car, and you get lighter (therefore faster, causing you to release more excess 'weight' at the next corner  ;D)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

But what does the sphincter grab when your coming into hot. your better of removing the brake pedal

Less weight and it will definitely increase your corner speed

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

very true.... Might as well cut the floor away under the pedals too, so you can push the accelerator down further.  That makes you go faster, right?

 

*edit* in the interest of keeping some sensible discussion going among all the crap thats flying around  ::), I'm surprised no-one has mentioned the benefit of reducing rotating masses - flywheel, balancer, tailshaft, wheels, brake rotors.....  You get a small weight reduction, but also the benefit of a bit less driveline power and torque losses.  Small gains, but it all adds up.

 

Pity you can't machine as much off a Zed flywheel as an Alfa, but on the flipside zeds don't have a bloody great big tailshaft spinning at engine speed with another flywheel at the other end!  And yes, the ring gear was working its way off the standard flywheel  :-\

post-42-144023527268_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

But seriously, I removed the roof skin off my 240z the other day and dam....... at least 3 times heaver than I was expecting. no KG amount yet

That weight is sitting up at the highest point of the car too, Didn't benzed or someone do a CF roof skin? probley very $$ and it's a structural part aswell

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you have a roll cage though, the roof is probably nowhere near is critical as it would otherwise be.  If you can work out how to bond the CF roof on properly, it would be probably stronger than the steel - the Alfa Romeo SZ actually used a carbon fibre (or similar composite) roof from the factory, it acchieved (I believe) the highest lateral G-force of any road car at the time.  Also, many late model cars have the windscreens bonded in with urethane - in these cars, the windscreen is an integral part of the cars structural rigidity!

 

Photo shows you just why it was dubbed 'Il Mostro' (the monster).  Ugly, but very brutal.

post-42-144023527275_thumb.jpg

post-42-144023527288_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Has anyone suggest a Carbon Fibre or a lightweight composite tailshaft? I imagine that some weight could be lost here.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lots of good ideas (some that put a simile on my face reading them).

 

There is a guy in Japan that makes the following parts all in GRP - and I am sure with enough $$ CF could be made to.

 

1. Roof

2. Guards - all corners fron and rear (rear goes up to the roof line = matches his roof)

3. Bonnet

4. Panel between bonnet and screen (you know where the wipers go)

5. Sills

6. Doors

 

So that is basically the whole outer of the zed. Put a cage in with all this lot. Use a R180 with good LSD centre, stick with a L6 box and don't go to a SR/RB 71C as they are heavier (just a bit), convert to CV's and use some light weight alxes and the CF drive shaft. Put all these body panels on with either alloy rivets or bolts. Stick with rotors that fit with-in 14" rims (maybe 15") ie 11" rotors front and rear (stock is 10.8" on the front and 9" drum - but all you guys know that :) ) so 280mm x 20mm and some alloy 4 pots. Get the lights 3 piece rims you can find/afford (and don't hit the ripple strips or they might bend if they are that light). Sticking with 14" rims for lighter rubber. So now work the steel that is left in the car. Use hole punches were possible to take extra metal our of the car

 

Install FG/CF dash with alloy frame - remove heater and all extra not needed - strip the loom down to just all that is needed and no more and replace with smallest gauge wire possible for the given current draw.

 

Strip all sound proofing off the uni-body put just enough paint on to cover and give the colour required and no more. Use lexan for the side and rear windows. Remove the window regs and have the lexan window either with a sliding window or just a leather strap with holes that hock into a latch to set the ride height of the window (aka early morris minor)

 

Maybe get one of those late model L28 rocker covers that is made of plastic and compare the weight to the stock alloy unit. Use good light weight rods, pistons and take some weight out of the flywheel and balancer.

 

Use the earliest 240z shell you can get as these are lighter I am lead to believe (ones with out the tool boxes is the ideal). Also use 240z suspension not the 260z stuff as it lighter (not as strong) but then the whole car will be lighter too.

 

The list goes on and on when you think about it. But none of this is worth effort if the driver is like me and 15-20KG overweight so I need to go on diet before my car which is why I have 260z 2 seater as they are heavier than the 240z from the start = light weight is not a concern (well I guess I should loose KG before the car)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I saw some good tricks in my kart racing days.  Hole saws through plastics and the fibreglass seats.  Tie rods taken to with a file, etc.  Funnily enough, the poeple that did this didn't seem to finish many races......

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×