Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
ZD44TT

Light Weight 240z?

Recommended Posts

Well I am 110 KG but I am also 6 foot 4 inches so even if I went on a dramatic diet I only stand to loose 10 Kg. I am aiming to shed about 50Kg from my 240z. I'm aiming to have it down to 1000KG with a cage and half a tank of fuel.

 

I just bought a VL starter. It weighs 3.4 Kg the original zed item weighs 5.8Kg so there is another 2.4 KG of my 50 KG target. :) Thanks for the tip Lurch.

 

Now I'm just wondering if there are more tips like that. What mechanical items can be replaced with more modern alternatives?

 

Also what is the wieght diference with an alloy radiator? Anybody weighed them?

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i accept the fact that im a fat bastard.

so i am going to add luxury items and just make more power to move the extra weight ;D 8)

 

 

 

 

 

if only it was that easy....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
The first thing I thought is whether it's worth the compromise of so little weight loss in regards to the reduced structural integrity of that section of the car

Just a quick one on the holes in the sheet metal.

The guy on Hybridz actually flared each hole, which means that he increased the stiffness of the standard sheet metal whilst still taking away weight.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well I am 110 KG but I am also 6 foot 4 inches so even if I went on a dramatic diet I only stand to loose 10 Kg.

:o !

I'm 6'4 as well, but I'm only 80kg!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well I am 110 KG but I am also 6 foot 4 inches so even if I went on a dramatic diet I only stand to loose 10 Kg.

 

:o !

I'm 6'4 as well, but I'm only 80kg!

 

6'3 and 75kg. Does that mean I win?

 

whoo... $200/kg dam! There's lot's of places to save weight, aftermarket seats would be an option too

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was 6'3 at 13 and 85 KG. I was too thin. For someone else 85KG might be ok but for me my ideal weight is 100KG.

 

Does any one know the weight of a standard seat?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

get rid of the gauges. they weigh a bit.

 

the ones u need get the lightest stuff i guess autometer as they got nothing in them.

 

if urs is the series 2 get rid of the toolboxes behind the front seats. prob save u 1/2 kg

 

other than than all the stuff under the dash like the heater box.

 

engine wise replace the complex linkages for throtle with cable. we not talkin kg but bit here and there should get it lower overall.

 

i think the window winder mechenism weigh a fair bit on the Z.probably fabricate bits out of alloy to replace it ie arms and sliders.

 

wiper motor mechanism. those motors weght a bit too. see if u can fit lighter ones from more modern car or replace it and use single arm style with manual switch motor bit like what they use on boats and old land rovers quite small motors.

 

windscreen rubbers weigh a bit. possibly urethane them in.

 

well thats what ill be looking at getting the Z on diet.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Off topic much, anyway I'm sure I've seen under 900 wouldn't be impossible just crazy amounts of carbon fibre, no wait carbon fibre everything soo outhere. ;D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got my standard seats in the hallway, but no scales. I don't think they are very heavy though, I would be guessing ~15kg. (I better go quantify that)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bit hard to quantify, but definitely less than half of my 40kg jack.

I would say 10-15kg is in the ball park.

 

I guess that means if your going to put a race seat in (<5kg with rails) you can spend $1-1.5k (@$200/kg) on a seat. More then double that if you remove both seats.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I guess that means if your going to put a race seat in (<5kg with rails) you can spend $1-1.5k (@$200/kg) on a seat. More then double that if you remove both seats.

 

I will attempt to explain this to the missus, but somehow i dont think she will see the logic of it ;D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I took some quick weights with bathroom scales so don't hold these to gospel.

 

260z underdash heater fan unit 5kg

260z underdash heater radiator 5kg

240z Bare front guard (with nose, no headlight etc) 7kg

240z bare door (no mirror, glass, winder, chrome rail, etc. nothing but the steal) 12kg

260z seat (not %100 on seat type) 14kg

260z dash (no fan or heater radiator but everything else) 15kg

240z front brakes (2x disc & 2x calipers with pads) 19kg

Wilwood front brakes (2x 300mm disc & 2x wilwood calipers with pads) 16kg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
260z seat (not %100 on seat type) 14kg

Wow, I was pretty spot on.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

few more

 

240z front bumper 4kg

240z dash (empty , not even the gluve box lid) 6kg

240z Fiber glass bonnet 5kg

260z steel bonnet 15kg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
240z dash (empty , not even the gluve box lid) 6kg

Is that with foam and vinyl on the dash?

My 260z dash felt like it weighed a whole lot more then that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Ahh yes off to Mc Donalds for the Pounder. aka double double quarter pounder. mmmmm

 

Yay, squeeze it and watch the oil run out.  Only thing more fun than eating it is watching the faces of the people eating with you!

 

Bit hard to quantify, but definitely less than half of my 40kg jack.

I would say 10-15kg is in the ball park.

 

I guess that means if your going to put a race seat in (<5kg with rails) you can spend $1-1.5k (@$200/kg) on a seat. More then double that if you remove both seats.

 

On my sparco seat spec sheet, the lightest seat they offer is 5.5kg for the shell, and thats carbon fibre (about $2000-2500 for a seat, plus rails/side mounts or whatever).  Fibreglass shells are generally around 8.5-9 kg, at approx $1100 per seat (before mounts).  Not a huge saving with the standard seats only weighing 14kg.....  Unlike an Alfetta seat, which you just about need a crane to lift!  However, the gain in lateral support is definitely worth it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is that with foam and vinyl on the dash?

My 260z dash felt like it weighed a whole lot more then that.

 

It a re-skined dash

There's a pic in my gallery,

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Shorten / replace all bolts throughout the car so just 1 to 2 threads penetrate through the nut. Don't use bolts with long pilot noses.

Consider small head bolts and thin washers anywhere not load bearing. That's good for another 2.2kg (approximate).

 

Switch to a dual master cylinder and aluminium  pedal box, remove the power booster. About 1 kg

 

Leave the bonnet / hood torsion bars out for another 0.5kg. If you are using a GRP bonnet / hood, use four hood pins and leave the hinges out for another 1 kg.

 

GRP dash with sheet aluminium frame and stock instruments will save 7 kg, aluminium heater / demister another 5 kg.

If you need a demister (like I did) replace the stock vent hoses with convoluted paper/aluminium material like is used for exhaust to air cleaner ducting plus trim the demister outlets to the bare minimum, save another 0.5 kg.

 

Delete the window winders completely and use a leather strap from the bottom of the glass up and over the inside of the door. A button head screw in the door and a suitable line of holes in the leather strap to hold the windows at various desired heights and you've just saved yourself another 5 kg.

 

Don't be tempted by GRP door shells, even with a cage, as a heavy side impact will leave you regretting it (if you live through it!). Get the inner shell acid dipped to thin it and then use the thinnest repro skin you can find. It will still save 4 kg for both sides without seriously compromising safety.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Shorten / replace all bolts throughout the car so just 1 to 2 threads penetrate through the nut. Don't use bolts with long pilot noses.

Consider small head bolts and thin washers anywhere not load bearing. That's good for another 2.2kg (approximate).

 

Switch to a dual master cylinder and aluminium  pedal box, remove the power booster. About 1 kg

 

Leave the bonnet / hood torsion bars out for another 0.5kg. If you are using a GRP bonnet / hood, use four hood pins and leave the hinges out for another 1 kg.

 

GRP dash with sheet aluminium frame and stock instruments will save 7 kg, aluminium heater / demister another 5 kg.

If you need a demister (like I did) replace the stock vent hoses with convoluted paper/aluminium material like is used for exhaust to air cleaner ducting plus trim the demister outlets to the bare minimum, save another 0.5 kg.

 

Delete the window winders completely and use a leather strap from the bottom of the glass up and over the inside of the door. A button head screw in the door and a suitable line of holes in the leather strap to hold the windows at various desired heights and you've just saved yourself another 5 kg.

 

Don't be tempted by GRP door shells, even with a cage, as a heavy side impact will leave you regretting it (if you live through it!). Get the inner shell acid dipped to thin it and then use the thinnest repro skin you can find. It will still save 4 kg for both sides without seriously compromising safety.

 

 

Crikey some of that seems pretty extreme!! You're a dedicated man  :P

 

Gotta admit the bolts thing seems risky  :-\

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Crikey some of that seems pretty extreme!! You're a dedicated man  :P

 

Gotta admit the bolts thing seems risky  :-\

 

Why risky, Stevo?  He's talking about trimming the excess thread off the end of the bolt, the amount of thread contact area remains the same.  If it comes loose, doesn't matter if there are 10 threads or 2 threads it has to unscrew over - its still loose!  And the small headed bolts I imagine go places like gauge cluster brackets etc - things that aren't subject to big loadings.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh I see!

 

I thought he was talking about only having two or three actual threads contacting with the thread on the nut. Now it seems obvious that he meant the extra bit that was protruding out the end.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hmmmm food for thought alright. I have a lot of work to do. I think I will create a plan to complete for this time next year. I will definatly add the dash and side windows to the plan.

 

I just competed in Wheels on Wide Bay over the weekend. The car was solid but not blistering. I think the weight reduction is very necessary.

 

Also had my car on the dyno for the first time. As it was being set up someone asked what I thought it might be. I said I'd be happy with 130 RWHP. It ended up being 129.5.... what a guess. I am happy with that considering it is only a mild engine with a standard ECU. Hopefully I will add a few more ponies by the same event next year.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×