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luvemfast

L28 block brace/girdle

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This topic has been a little quiet of late, thought I'd wake it up!

 

I've very recently asked the question over on hybridz as to whether a girdle was really necessary for the L series.

Tony D wrote that it wasn't. He said that back in the Electramotive days when they were running their awesome 700HP L28 turbo, they only upgraded the bottom end to ARP main studs. No girdle was ever used.

 

The leaking oil was mentioned and Tony D suggested that it may be a PCV issue that was blowing oil out the rear seals. I'd like to know how much the standard PCV system can flow? Modifying the engine and revving it harder will naturally increase the volume of blowby gasses. With the crankcase becoming pressurized, oil is going to be 'squeezed' out at some point. Some engine builders claim more horsepower by using a vacuum pump on their crankcases, claiming that they get reduced windage. Oil will cling to a rotating crank due to negative pressure, so if the rest of the crankcase is negative pressure, then the preference is for the oil to drop to the sump rather than cling to the crank. Negative crankcase air pressure eliminates parasitic drag, oil leaks and cylinder wall overoiling so contamination detonation is reduced, allowing for more timing/compression etc for more power. 

 

Bearing wear noted. I've found that the tension created from the alternator/water pump belt will cause the crank to flex ever so slightly in the direction of the pull, causing a bearing wear to be found at the front and correspondingly at the back of the engine/crank main bearings.

 

The crank is long and whip and flex is going to happen, electramotive just used ARP main studs....do we really need anything more down there?  ;)

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I have found that the arp studs are better but I still had

rear main leaks .

Have found that the block brace is a great help at reducing bearing wear and the rear main nearly stopped leaking.

Also I have found that the Arizona sump has been a big help at stiffing up the bottom end as the rails are pretty thick.

Also guys at electromotive ran dry sumps which would help as they would have run vacuum in the sump and their engine would have been rebuilt every time they went out which would help the situation.

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If you're going to rebuild your motor after ever event, then maybe dont consider the girdle.

But most of us will rebuild every 5-10 years.

As originally stated, these were used by one of the pioneers of Z racing here on Victoria. He was a smart cookie, still holds the lap record at the Island in an L series powered Z. So knew what he was doing. Also told me it will increase the harmonic vibration further up the rev range.

 

All I'm doing is making them available again.

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As Peter said,

They rebuilt after each event.

But we want longevity.......... Don't we?

 

These are nothing new, just haven't been available for 10 years.

One is fitted to a stroker motor that has been in LOTS of MSCA events over the last 10 years.

 

All I'm doing is making them available again

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Well after posting on HybridZ, asking for experience and opinions. I have failed to receive a reasonable response.

They didn't use them back in the 70's.

You don't want to add more weight.

Electramotive didn't use them.

L series blocks can handle 1000hp on the dyno with ARP studs.

Incorrect PCV settings.

Detonation.

 

I would trust Neils opinion over these responses anyday.

I'm spending thousands on my engine, $200 to help protect it and help it last longer is nothing in my book!

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Well after posting on HybridZ, asking for experience and opinions. I have failed to receive a reasonable response.

They didn't use them back in the 70's.

You don't want to add more weight.

Electramotive didn't use them.

L series blocks can handle 1000hp on the dyno with ARP studs.

Incorrect PCV settings.

Detonation.

 

I would trust Neils opinion over these responses anyday.

I'm spending thousands on my engine, $200 to help protect it and help it last longer is nothing in my book!

 

 

Mmmmm, and where are all these mythical 1000hp l series engines....Oh I see one now being airlifted by a squadron of pigs over near that Unicorn ;D

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if it makes you feel better, then why not.

wont bolw up you bottom end.

BUT if there were to be an oil pick up leak lets say, good night L-series big end......

get my drift, make sure oil pickup integrity is of upmost imprtance.

nat0

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Mmmmm, and where are all these mythical 1000hp l series engines....Oh I see one now being airlifted by a squadron of pigs over near that Unicorn ;D

Yeah, I know.

Guess it's different in the northern hemisphere.

You know they have cars that explode on impact up there too  ;D

 

 

 

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BUT if there were to be an oil pick up leak lets say, good night L-series big end......

get my drift, make sure oil pickup integrity is of upmost imprtance.

Good point, this should be done right in any build though

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I only have 1 left, which i need for my own build.

 

Is there any point in getting some more made?

or

have those who wanted them, all got one?

 

Any interest?

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I might be willing to part with mine if someone is keen. Need the money for mikuni rebuild.

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