Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
warrenz

Repairing Front Guards

Recommended Posts

Now that I have got the front guards off and cleaned them up and exposed the rust I have some questions for you experts out there.

 

The good news is the body underneath the guards and inside the guards is in really good condition.

 

The small holes in the guards are where the "pocket" is to channel the water through the bottom of the guard. They were clogged with mud and @#!*. Any tricks or tips with respect to cutting out the rusted area and welding in a new piece ?

 

Second question is about the foam rubber. It looks like the guards had not been off in 32 years and the foam rubber was completey broken up and worn away. How thick should these padding pieces be and what sort of foam have you used to replace it?

 

Warren

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Have to use closed cell foam. Ordinary foam will act like a sponge, soak up all the moisture on those damp nights, and thrown up from the tyres and rust holes in the guards.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Warren,

 

When I took my front guards off I also noticed that the drain holes were full of mud so bored them out with a drill for peice of mind. I think it will be a lot harder to get a blockage there now.

 

Sulio

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Nigel,

 

Guards are back from ZWorx with new lower section welded in and the guards are zinc'd.

 

Purchased POR15 Rust preventitive yesterday (expensive paint) and will treat inside of guards and chassis area that guards bolt on to on the weekend. The scuttle panel is back to bare metal and de rusted and will also be POR15 treated.

 

Once guards are bolted back on and it is drivable a visit to the painter for discussion on prep needed to be done by me before painting. I am considering bare metalling the whole exterior of the car and painting in 2 pack Silver as this as been the suggestion by everyone I speak to.

 

Then it is off with the door skins and rust sections welded in on the bottom and more POR15 treatment.

 

Only mods will be - fitting extractors, replacing front spoiler with original valance (already in bare metal state) electonic ignition and maybe new Superlite wheels

 

ETA - good question, maybe November unless I find some costly surprises along the way.. If it goes any longer i will need to buy another car for getting to work.

 

Warren

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey Warren,

 

I'm "nearly" ready to start rust proofing panels, etc and was wondering where you purchased the POR15 from.

 

Cheers,

 

Matt

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

as am i wanting to start rust proofing the panels now, nearly all are straight YEEEPEE...

 

where can i purcharse POR15 in melbourne... and how much did you buy it for....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi

 

There are several places in Melbourne that stock it, I went to Aall Paints in Glenroy (trades as Bristol Paints) as it is on the way to work. Go to the web site and click on where to buy to find somewhere close to you.

 

http://www.ppc.au.com/

 

1 litre of POR15 was $66 and 1 litre of Marine Clean was $16. You can get it in 4 litre tins as well. Clean up is done with paint thinners but since I intend to brush it on I bought some very cheap brushes and will toss them away after each painting session.

 

I hope it is as good as all the guys on the Classic Z Car Club web site say it is.

 

Cheers

Warren

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×