pauly_adams Posted October 10, 2006 Share Posted October 10, 2006 hey just wondering what fuel and additives u all use cause ive been told bout 4 or five dif thing from mechenics about they type of feul i should use and the aditives thaks pauly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nat0_240_chevZ Posted October 12, 2006 Share Posted October 12, 2006 just put your premo unlead'd in if you really care, otherwise just run 91 reg. I fyou having some trouble with detonation use the premo, (mostly noticable on hot days. as for additives, if your after a higher octane just dissolve mothballs in 2l of petrol and chuck in your tank!!! (old tale the old, old guys talk about, works too appearantly!!!) To be really sure what you should be running we need some specs stats of your engine, ignition, head, compression ratio, and cylinder pressures, also a realistic opinion about what your engine is doing when you load her up at slow speeds. nato Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauly_adams Posted October 12, 2006 Author Share Posted October 12, 2006 hey nat i got standed 260 block , bosch ignition system , e88 head , standed dizzy i think , p53 manifold and a duel barrel daf carbie whick i cleaned all the crap out of last night and i can tell ya there was alot of crap but now it seems to be runnin great tryed it this morning cause i didnt finsh cleanin the carbie till late but the main reason y i was askin what fuel additives u should use is cause i didnt want to do any damage to my engine but i been usin premo anyway so thats good news thanks for your help pauly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
road rider Posted October 12, 2006 Share Posted October 12, 2006 Hey Pauly, the problem I see with running the E88 head is that the valve seats are brass(inlet). These seats aren't compatible with unleaded fuel. So you will have to run an upper cylinder lubricant of some sort. The N42/P90 heads all run hardened steel seats(inlet and exhaust) which are compatible with unleaded fuels Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twosixty Posted October 12, 2006 Share Posted October 12, 2006 Hey Pauly' date=' the problem I see with running the E88 head is that the valve seats are brass(inlet). [/quote'] I was told they are bronze, at least on the 260 E88. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
road rider Posted October 13, 2006 Share Posted October 13, 2006 I was told they are bronze, at least on the 260 E88. Sorry.....bronze/brass, got the names mixed up. The theory still stands though. Bronze intake seats were an invention that needed lead in petrol to operate efficiently. Thats why Nissan went to hardened steel seats for the 280zx's(N42 head) and other models around this time. because governments around the world were legislating and introducing unleaded fuels. And cylinder heads had to be updated to cope with the change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUSSJZ-ZED Posted October 13, 2006 Share Posted October 13, 2006 Lead was added to fuel as an anti Knocking agent, ethanol does the same job as lead more effectively,and does not poison the environment , why not try an ethanol blend, or just dump a litre of METHELATED spirits from the supermarket in,it you check the label it is actually 98%Ethanol these days. Another good thing about supermarket Meth/Ethanol, An engineering signatory actually advised that I run a 20% ethanol mix in a car that had to pass an emission test, Keeps the emissions down when you need to as well. It passed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeddophile Posted October 13, 2006 Share Posted October 13, 2006 If you run by a United servo in your daily travels, they have 95 octane and 98 octane ethanol fuels, and the 95 (Plus ULP) is 4 cents a litre cheaper than regular (91 octane non-ethanol) unleaded, and the Boost 98 is a little more expensive than normal unleaded - but about 8 cents cheaper than Optimax etc. I've been running Plus ULP in my rangie for over a year, no worries, and ran my alfa before that on Boost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUSSJZ-ZED Posted October 13, 2006 Share Posted October 13, 2006 (Range)Rover have had hardened valve seats etc since 1977(introduction of the SD1) no problem with unleaded, This engine is at it's best on straight gas,never ever go dual fuel.I had a TR8 with a gas research carb set up(10.5/1comp+split timed cam) current owner has put 150000Ks on it , still has 130lb compression on all 8 cylinders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lambs Posted October 14, 2006 Share Posted October 14, 2006 The bronze inlet valve seat was replaced with steel in E88 heads used with 260Z heads from about 1976, which was about the time that unleaded fuel was mandated in Japan (although it should be noted that recession mainly affects exhaust valve seats). TetraEthyl Lead was originally discovered to provide improved anti-knock capabilities but, as a combustion by-product, lead also provides a 'cushioning' effect on exhaust valve seats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warrenz Posted October 15, 2006 Share Posted October 15, 2006 In answer to the original question, I run the 240 with a standard E88 head on PULP plus 50ml of Valvemaster. Warren Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauly_adams Posted October 15, 2006 Author Share Posted October 15, 2006 thanks for all the info that clears up alot by the way my z is a 77 260 2+2 cheers pauly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azman Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 As a mechanic I feel its only my suty to put my opinion in on this subject! with all my 260's I have always run them on BP ultimate 98 octane, with a slightly advanced timming and have never had any problems at all. we run our race cars on it, street cars the lot. Please please dopnt orture the car with an ethanol fuel, in the long run it will only cause you more problems than it is worth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauly_adams Posted November 4, 2006 Author Share Posted November 4, 2006 thanks for the heads up at the moment the car is in the shed just sitting there cause i got no money so i havent put anything but premo so far but its running like crap i think the timings out bad but with any luck i should score a job and presto itll be goin so thanks for the info pauly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChiprZ Posted November 5, 2006 Share Posted November 5, 2006 When i got my BP Ultimate 98 octane fuel the other day i noticed a pack of 10 tablets on the counter which you add one tablet into the tank and its meant to give more power, more milage and cleaner emissions. Was about $35 for 10 tabs. Anyone heard of or used these? Does it make any difference? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nat0_240_chevZ Posted November 5, 2006 Share Posted November 5, 2006 yea they are basically the mothballs i was talking about earlier in this thread. just a lil more potent in it ingredient. probly cheaper from the supermarket, its the methylx(dadidadada) thats pumps the octane (apearntly) nato Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aegean Posted November 6, 2006 Share Posted November 6, 2006 I run several old cars (back to the 50's) and use premium unleaded, advanced timing, and add 100ml of ATF (auto transmission fluid) to the tank each time I fill them. This not only cleans like an upper cylinder lubricant, but boosts the octane level. It is not necesary to use new ATF - clean (filtered) used oil works just as well. Ethanol causes problems with rubber components eventually. Craig As a mechanic I feel its only my suty to put my opinion in on this subject! with all my 260's I have always run them on BP ultimate 98 octane' date=' with a slightly advanced timming and have never had any problems at all. we run our race cars on it, street cars the lot. Please please dopnt orture the car with an ethanol fuel, in the long run it will only cause you more problems than it is worth.[/quote'] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JP240z Posted January 18, 2007 Share Posted January 18, 2007 Hate to dredge up an old topic, but after running my worked L24 E88 on unleaded with valve saver fluid for the last few weeks, I noticed that my car was running on after I shut it off, thinking that this was carbon build up, I thought it would go away. But after going to Lindsay at Zshop, he told me my problem would be solved by premium unleaded due to the shaved head, cam from hell and whatnot on my L24, but he said that lead shots were not nesscessary. I'm not able to find out what exact modifications were made to my engine when it was reco'd a few years back, i'm sure you will all notice at the meeting that it definately isn't stock. Just wondering what lead replacement would be nesscessary assuming the engine hasn't been reconditioned for unleaded. Were 240's originally made for leaded fuel? Cheers, Jack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warrenz Posted January 20, 2007 Share Posted January 20, 2007 The 240Z was made for leaded fuel. So unless you have replaced the valve seats I personally would suggest PULP + additive. I use Flash Lube as the additive. Cheers Warren Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JP240z Posted January 20, 2007 Share Posted January 20, 2007 Thanks Warren, Thats the setup ive stuck to, it was just the "advice" from zshop that threw me off a bit. Unluckily my fuel pump has just ceased on me anyway, so fuels not an issue for a couple of days lol., Thanks, Jack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauly_adams Posted January 26, 2007 Author Share Posted January 26, 2007 well my car got regertsed in december and im still runnin just 95 or 98 premo and it runs like a treat then i use some flash lube and it ran like crap ever since then i ran 95 98 octane fuel and its back to normal has this happerned to any 1 else cheers pauly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JP240z Posted January 26, 2007 Share Posted January 26, 2007 I can't understand how the valve saver fluid would cause it to run badly, even if the valve seats don't need it. Mine seems to run nicely with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HELLFIRE! Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 I use PULP + Fuel additive (Lucas oils product) in my stock 76 260Z 2+2 and haven't had any issues. How easy is it to check if I have the "Leaded" valve seats, and how easy would it be to change them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauly_adams Posted January 30, 2008 Author Share Posted January 30, 2008 couldnt be too hard. the best bet would be to just change heads, to the n42 from a L28 etc. but as i said earlier when i added flash lube my car ran like crap and was constly blowing smoke and yes i did add the right amount. cheers pauly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldmates260z Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 I am running the standard unleaded in a completely stock 260Z that has never had the head off it. Have done about 4000k in it without any trouble. I was told the heat build up with ULP only effected cast iron heads so most Jap cars had no issue with running ULP. I will tell you if I do the values :'( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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