reverendzed Posted May 18, 2010 Share Posted May 18, 2010 well I had a bit of a let down this afternoon. I finished bleeding the clutch (this is after a manual conversion) however I feel that the clutch pedal is still soft yet doesn't seem to still have air in the line. Started it up and went to put it in gear and....GRIND! doesn't seem to be enough clutch travel? Has new slave cylinder, new master cylinder any ideas? Thanks in advance, Rev. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scoota G Posted May 18, 2010 Share Posted May 18, 2010 Missing the return spring? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reverendzed Posted May 18, 2010 Author Share Posted May 18, 2010 The return spring on the pedal is on, it seems like it should have more pressure in the pedal which will drive the slave to push the clutch fork further? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB30X Posted May 18, 2010 Share Posted May 18, 2010 So it has full travel, just feels soft all the way through, or soft then hard at the end? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reverendzed Posted May 18, 2010 Author Share Posted May 18, 2010 yes it seems soft the whole way (just waiting for someone to take this out of context! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scoota G Posted May 18, 2010 Share Posted May 18, 2010 Just what i was thinking. Almost a mills & boon novel starting here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zedsabbath Posted May 18, 2010 Share Posted May 18, 2010 Are you trying to bleed by yourself ? if you are it's not easy to do You'll need a jam jar and a piece of clear plastic tube that fits tightly over the slave cylinder bleed nipple...put it on then stick the tube in the jar, watch it doesn't fall over Get someone to push the pedal to the floor...or get a piece of timber and jamb it so it holds the pedal down Open the s/c bleed nipple and watch the air and fluid come through the clear tube Repeat till there is no more air, just fluid...close nipple then try clutch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riceburner Posted May 18, 2010 Share Posted May 18, 2010 Have you adjusted the clutch pedal travel properly? It should be 202mm +or- 5mm from firewall/toeboard (bottom curved part of firewall) to front of pedal.. Included in that there should be 10-15mm of free travel....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riceburner Posted May 18, 2010 Share Posted May 18, 2010 Sorry that was a 240z, should be 223mm total for a 260z with 24-35mm free travel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C.A.R. Posted May 18, 2010 Share Posted May 18, 2010 Sounds like it's got the wrong (i.e. short) throw out bearing cradle fitted... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enzo Posted May 18, 2010 Share Posted May 18, 2010 I agree with Lurch. I think he's on the money. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZeder Posted May 18, 2010 Share Posted May 18, 2010 Sounds like it's got the wrong (i.e. short) throw out bearing cradle fitted... I agree - Nissan made a number of different sizes - from 12mm upto 30mm - depends on the front cover, fork pivot and release bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZeder Posted May 18, 2010 Share Posted May 18, 2010 Here are part numbers for the different length release bearing carriers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reverendzed Posted May 18, 2010 Author Share Posted May 18, 2010 would it narrow things down if I found out whether this had previously run in a 260z? (which I'm almost 95% sure it did before I got it) If that current setup ran in another 260 shouldn't it be fine in mine? Rev. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KatoKid Posted May 18, 2010 Share Posted May 18, 2010 Length of the release bearing shouldn't necessarily change the "feel" of the pedal of that much. Bleeding clutch hydraulics can be one of life's great mysteries. Ive poured litres of fluid through them and still cant get a good pedal sometimes. From experience Ive found the best way is to reverse bleed, by using a syringe and pushing fluid from the slave up to the master, it can be messy but sometimes is the only way. If you have flexible lines then other options can be to remove the slave and bleed it at a height above the MC. good luck, I feel your pain! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Zedman240® Posted May 18, 2010 Moderators Share Posted May 18, 2010 Usually the pressure plate and throw out bearing carrier can be considered a matched pair. One thing I found when I had the RB engine, I got the same problem as yours; engine running, clutch in...and grind! Problem was I used a Skyline slave cylinder instead of the zed one. The bore in the Skyline one was larger meaning less travel where the L series one has a smaller bore meaning more travel for the given clutch pedal master travel. What slave cylinder are you using? Try to find one with a smaller cylinder bore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaygZ Posted May 19, 2010 Share Posted May 19, 2010 I have in the past (in an old mazda) had to take off the slave and hold it above the master to bleed it properly!! As the Zedman says - if your master is not pushing enough fluid for the slave. Maybe bigger master or smaller slave. Lay under her while someone pushes your pedal. See how much travel you get. Maybe longer actuator rod? Does it get any better if you pump it harder and longer OK, I'm finished now. How 'bout you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nat0_240_chevZ Posted May 21, 2010 Share Posted May 21, 2010 adjust pushrod outward furthar in MC? not releasing far enough to suck from resovoir maybe??? like brizzis brake problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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