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reverendzed

clutch help please!

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well I had a bit of a let down this afternoon.  I finished bleeding the clutch (this is after a manual conversion) however I feel that the clutch pedal is still soft yet doesn't seem to still have air in the line.  Started it up and went to put it in gear and....GRIND! doesn't seem to be enough clutch travel? Has new slave cylinder, new master cylinder any ideas?

Thanks in advance,

Rev.

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The return spring on the pedal is on, it seems like it should have more pressure in the pedal which will drive the slave to push the clutch fork further?

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So it has full travel, just feels soft all the way through, or soft then hard at the end?

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Are you trying to bleed by yourself ? if you are it's not easy to do

 

You'll need a jam jar and a piece of clear plastic tube that fits tightly over the slave cylinder bleed nipple...put it on then stick the tube in the jar, watch it doesn't fall over

 

Get someone to push the pedal to the floor...or get a piece of timber and jamb it so it holds the pedal down

 

Open the s/c bleed nipple and watch the air and fluid come through the clear tube

 

Repeat till there is no more air, just fluid...close nipple then try clutch

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Have you adjusted the clutch pedal travel properly? It should be 202mm +or- 5mm from firewall/toeboard (bottom curved part of firewall) to  front of pedal.. Included in that there should be 10-15mm of free travel.......

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Sounds like it's got the wrong (i.e. short) throw out bearing cradle fitted...

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Sounds like it's got the wrong (i.e. short) throw out bearing cradle fitted...

I agree - Nissan made a number of different sizes - from 12mm upto 30mm - depends on the front cover, fork pivot and release bearing.

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would it narrow things down if I found out whether this had previously run in a 260z? (which I'm almost 95% sure it did before I got it)  If that current setup ran in another 260 shouldn't it be fine in mine?

Rev. ???

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Length of the release bearing shouldn't necessarily change the "feel" of the pedal of that much.

 

Bleeding clutch hydraulics can be one of life's great mysteries. Ive poured litres of fluid through them and still cant get a good pedal sometimes. From experience Ive found the best way is to reverse bleed, by using a syringe and pushing fluid from the slave up to the master, it can be messy but sometimes is the only way. If you have flexible lines then other options can be to remove the slave and bleed it at a height above the MC.

 

good luck, I feel your pain!

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Usually the pressure plate and throw out bearing carrier can be considered a matched pair. One thing I found when I had the RB engine, I got the same problem as yours; engine running, clutch in...and grind! Problem was I used a Skyline slave cylinder instead of the zed one. The bore in the Skyline one was larger meaning less travel where the L series one has a smaller bore meaning more travel for the given clutch pedal master travel. What slave cylinder are you using? Try to find one with a smaller cylinder bore.

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I have in the past (in an old mazda) had to take off the slave and hold it above the master to bleed it properly!!

 

As the Zedman says - if your master is not pushing enough fluid for the slave.  Maybe bigger master or smaller slave.  Lay under her while someone pushes your pedal. ???  See how much travel you get.  Maybe longer actuator rod?  ???

 

Does it get any better if you pump it harder and longer  ???

 

OK, I'm finished now.  How 'bout you?  :o

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